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Author Topic: Problem with WS12A  (Read 3676 times)

vette327

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Problem with WS12A
« on: January 17, 2011, 10:07:22 PM »

Hello,
I know similar problems have been discussed at length but this might be a little different take on it.
I have one set of lights that come on by themselves sometime during every night.
They are a bank of six 50watt 110volt pot lights in my basement rec room.
The wall switch shares a double box with an XPS3 X10 PRO Non-dimming Fluorescent Switch that controls a couple of fluorescent fixtures at the other end of the rec room.

I swapped the offending switch with one from the other side of the rec room (On the same circuit) that was working perfectly and I didn't change the codes so the new switch now beside the fluorescent switch kept its original working code. Now it's the one switching on in the middle of the night. Every morning I go downstairs and find the pot lights on. In other words the problem didn't move with the switch or code, it stayed with the same pot lights with a different switch and code.
If my lights were being turned on by a neighbors system or a bad remote the problem would have stayed with the switch and a different light would be coming on as I didn't change the switch codes.
I've also tried moving the TM751 transceiver to different outlets to make sure it was on the same phase as the lighting.

This leads me to believe that the problem lies with the WS12A switch sharing a ganged box with the XPS3 fluorescent switch.
My question now is does anyone have a solution to this.
I've tried to locate a Leviton spike filter but haven't had any success finding one.

I don't have any motion detectors in the system.
I have one WS12A wall switch and one lamp module on the main floor of the house, both work fine.
I have the two WS12A's and the one Fluorescent switch in the rec room. That's it so far. I just installed this stuff a few weeks ago. I was going to expand the system but now I'm not too sure.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2011, 10:23:19 PM by vette327 »
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Brian H

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Re: Problem with WS12A
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2011, 06:33:21 AM »

Solid troubleshooting on your part.
From what you have done. It does sound like the wiring or position of the WS12A could be the problem.
The Pot Lights are 120 volt bulbs not 120 volt with a transformer for low voltage bulbs?
Here is one link to the Leviton 6287. A Google search should fine others.
http://www.smarthome.com/4835/Leviton-6287-Noise-Block/p.aspx
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vette327

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Re: Problem with WS12A
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2011, 03:37:46 PM »

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, they are 120volt bulbs, no transformer.
I believe they are GU10 Halogen.
Thanks for the link but unless I'm reading it wrong that Leviton noise block would only be useful if the problem happened when the fluorescent fixtures were on. This problem happens when everything is off so there shouldn't be any noise coming from the fluorescent fixtures.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2011, 03:54:31 PM by vette327 »
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dave w

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Re: Problem with WS12A
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2011, 07:41:11 PM »

FWIW

There are forum reports indicating the outdoor flood light PR511 will not turn OFF and/or turns back ON when halogen floods are installed rather than incandescent floods. Oddly the PR511 more resembles an Appliance Module on the inside, using a relay rather than triac to control lights (which should make them MORE reliable/stable, not less). I don't understand why a halogen would operate any different than an incandescent.

I don't think there are GU10 incandescent bulbs (meaning non halogen), but is there any way you could get an incandescent in circuit to test? (removing the remaining five GU10s for the test).
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vette327

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Re: Problem with WS12A
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2011, 09:25:18 PM »

Thanks for the suggestion.
I'll maybe give that a try on the weekend when I've got a bit more time.
The junction box is very accessible so I'll just disconnect the halogen pot lights and wire in some type of test fixture and see if it comes on by itself.
That would definitely narrow it down a bit.
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dave w

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Re: Problem with WS12A
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2011, 06:08:44 PM »

Thanks for the suggestion.
I'll maybe give that a try on the weekend when I've got a bit more time.
The junction box is very accessible so I'll just disconnect the halogen pot lights and wire in some type of test fixture and see if it comes on by itself.
That would definitely narrow it down a bit.
Yeah and let us know what you find. This is fodder for my "X10 Wierdness" book I am writing, hoping to get on the "Amazon Top Ten" list. (chortle)
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