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[Appliance Module]

Passive phase couplers have one weak point. Lets say your controller sends at 5 Volts back on the power line. By the time it gets to the breaker box or where the coupler is. It is now 1 Volt. Only 1 volt is passed to the other phase and that phases losses may reduce the signals below minimum needed.

Since the system was fine with a coupler, something may have changed. Even if you have not made any changes.

Two controllers may not be the ideal solution, but maybe a fix. Until troubleshooting finds the culprit.

Have you had a chance to look over Jeff Volp's troubleshooting tutorials?
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

Yes, I looked them over again.   The methodical approach to eliminating the offending device is what I am trying to do.  Problem is that it does not always fail to activate or deactivate as programmed.     Last couple of days everything has worked fine via the timer, even though, when trying it manually last night I had one inactive  device.   That "seemingly" random effect is what is making this so hard to follow through on.

I have unplugged my computer, wireless headphones, TV and a few other things, but do not get a repeatable response.   Then like I said while running on auto the last few days it has worked fine.  First thing I tried was the wireless headphones, as they are new, but it did not make any difference.   

[Appliance Module]

I don't know how the above got all in the quote, but I will just acknowledge it here, rather than delet and repost

BTW, I also have a RR501 in use.    What is difference between that and the TM751?

Never mind.  I did a search here and think I understand the difference.  This was purchased years ago when I was going to use the computer program method to control the house, but got scared off based on some post I had read.  Kept the RR501 in use as it helped relay my key chain remote from out in the garage.

[Appliance Module]

Passive phase couplers have one weak point. Lets say your controller sends at 5 Volts back on the power line. By the time it gets to the breaker box or where the coupler is. It is now 1 Volt. Only 1 volt is passed to the other phase and that phases losses may reduce the signals below minimum needed.

Since the system was fine with a coupler, something may have changed. Even if you have not made any changes.


I agree, that is why I am going to zero in on the CFLs, as they are the only thing that is likely to have changed in my opinion
Two controllers may not be the ideal solution, but maybe a fix. Until troubleshooting finds the culprit.

Have you had a chance to look over Jeff Volp's troubleshooting tutorials?
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

[dave w]

Actually it is an x10 Pro XPCR and I think it works well. 

How long have you had it in operation?

I had both X10 and Leviton units, lock up many times, for no clear reason. Only way to get them working again was to cycle power. Maybe X10 finally fixed the firmware.

[dbemowsk]

Only had it in operation a few months, but haven't had a lick of problems with it since I installed it.

Dan

[Appliance Module]

I have had my x10 mintier controlling four different lights or appliance modules for nearly 10 years.  I had three of the old style appliance modules and an x10 light switch (the kind that does not use the neutral wire).   As you know these did not like using CFLs. 

So I installed SmartHome toggle linc switches on the outside lights and purchased x10 pro appliance modules so that I could use CFL.   The toggle linc switch switches would not respond to command from the timer.  It was determined that it was on the other side of the line phase as well as one of the appliance modules.  I turned on the clothes dryer (electric) and all responded well, so I purchased a passive phase coupler from SmartHome and all was well.  Every thing worked fine.

That is until the last two months.  On occasion, the outside light would not turn off and sometimes I could not manually turn on one of the appliance module and a couple of times it did not respond to the timer command.

Thinking maybe the coupler was bad, I did the dryer turn on again, but the response was negative.

To the best of my knowledge, nothing has changed.  Even so I unplugged some of my electronic devices (computer, LCD TV, wireless headphones.  and nothing changed.  I do not believe any neighbor has any x10 devices that might be inter ferring.

The only thing that I can think of is one of the CFLs might be gong bad.   Will try that, but am also looking for any ideas or input from the forum

Are there any measurement that I could make to help determine signal noise etc.   Thanks in advance,

Appliance Module   

 Reviving and old post to best restate the problem.  You can pursue this thread further if desired, but my problem is only getting worse.   I have traced it to the fact that certain lights are turned on, apparently causing noise on the line and preventing proper activation.

Since I need to replace about 8 bulbs (60 watt equivalent CFLs), I was wondering if any consensus exists on which brand bulbs are the least noisy/interferring?  Basically, my solution has been to put a controller in three different locations, but once even one of those failed.

[JeffVolp]

Since I need to replace about 8 bulbs (60 watt equivalent CFLs), I was wondering if any consensus exists on which brand bulbs are the least noisy/interfering?

The Phillips Earthlights we bought over a decade ago never caused any problems, and even could dim.  Of course, they were almost $20 a pop.  The n:vision CFLs we bought at Home Depot a couple of years ago also were fine, but I seem to recall a report from someone who had a problem with recent n:vision CFLs.  Most of the generic CFLs from electric company promotions turned out to be real noisemakers.

Jeff

[dave w]

Since I need to replace about 8 bulbs (60 watt equivalent CFLs), I was wondering if any consensus exists on which brand bulbs are the least noisy/interferring? 

I have no problems with GE 13W and GE 23W. Sam's Club blister pack of eight bulbs, $15.