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[jediagh]

Maybe I'm doing a n00bish thing but I'm confused.  
I got the 179.99 starter kit from x10 and I ordered a few extra door senors from an ebay seller (the DS10A version).  I was able to install the three DS10A door/window senors to the SC1200.  Now for the   part.

I can't get any of the DS12A sensors to work.  I have tested 3 different senors (all new) with new batteries and none of them work.  I don't think they can all be bad.  Here is what I am doing.

1) Opening the DS12A (2 shells come apart, not really likely that design vs the DS10A but oh well)
2) Installing two AAA batteries
3) Holding the SW1 white push button down for 4 seconds (per the instructions to get a "security code")
4) Closing the DS12A (I'm leaving the range switch on MIN)
5) Putting the magnet portion of the sensor where the arrows aline
6) Going to to SC1200 to install the sensor

Nothing occurs.

With the DS10A sensor when you put the batteries in and hit the TEST button the red LED lights up.  Then when the SC1200 "accepts" the sensor the red LED lights up again (blinks I think).

With the DS12A there is a green LED but I have not seen them light up when I hit the switch button or even when the SC1200 is attempting to accept the sensor.

Am I doing something wrong?
There are currently only 3 sensors on the SC1200 (Slots 1, 2 and 3 = DS10A x 3), so I know I have the room for more sensors.  Any ideas?  Batch of bad sensors perhaps?  Or n0obish move on my part?

Thanks

--update--
the sticker on the back of the DS12A is 11D14 not sure if that helps.

[Brian H]

7) Move the magnet away from the DS12A so it sends a signal. The green LED should flash.
The SC1200 should now show the zone installed.

DS12A covers come off easier for me. If I gently pop each side loose by gently twisting a dime in the slots.

The green LED on the DS12A should flash when the Zone is opened, Zone is closed, cover is removed sending a Tamper Message and about every hour as it checks in with the SC1200A.

[jediagh]

thanks it's working now after leaving it alone for a few minutes with the batteries still in.
I move don to test the PowerHorn (OMG that hurts the ears when not wearing earplugs!) and the lamp modules.
Again I ran into the same issues of neither working even though I set the HC and LC correctly. (HC=B; LC=14)
So I figured I take a break and left everything on (connected to the power outlet).  The SC1200 and the PowerHorn and Lamp Module were all on an extension core connected in the same outlet BTW.

In any case I came back a hour latter and tested the lamp module again via the SC1200 14 on, 14 off and it worked!  Triggered the alarm and the lamp module worked as well!  The same occurred with the power horn!
 

So perhaps the items need to "charge" on the power outlet for a bit no idea.  In any case now I just have to test the other 10 switches, 3 horns, and 3 lamp modules before I go an install it all over the house and re-test.

Thanks to some pre-reading I know that the small keychain remotes KR10A the LIGHTS ON/OFF buttons will cause **ONLY** the LC = 15 to turn on/off (ie. that is my LC + 1 number).  While the Security Remote Control (SH624) security lights will turn on/off LC= 14.    Now that makes no sence but oh well.

If I read the instructions right for the Security Remote Control (SH624) the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 are so I can control lamp/appliance modules with LC = 1, 2, 3 or 4 correct?

Not sure I see a benefit to the Security Remote Control (SH624) vs the keychain remotes KR10A from a "security arming/disarming" stand point.  I guess I will be using the keychain remotes KR10A and/or the SC1200 when I have to interact with it.  The Security Remote Control (SH624) seems more like something you would use if you want more automation.  It's just too big for my use. 

But so far so good.  Now I'll get some dinner and continue this fun stuff later.  My family is already looking at me like I am crazy with all the noise coming out of the basement. 

[Brian H]

Yes on the SH624. The one through four buttons control Light Code {Unit Code} one through four on the House Code set in the Options Menu. B in your setup.

The one thing the SH624 can do is duplicate the Arm Away button on the SC1200A Console if the switch on it is set to MAX. You get the exit delay to leave the home just like the consloe gives you. The Arm Button on the KR10A and KR32A do an instant Arm Away since you are most likely out of the home already.

Now Powerhorns. They do not trigger instantly when the light codes start being sent on the power line. It takes at least four cycles to trigger older revision ones and longer for the newer ones. So don't expect them to sound as soon as the lights start flashing. May take six or more seconds for them to start sounding.

After you test all the stuff and move them to the place where they will be installed. If some locations don't work we can get you links to troubleshooting. Things like phase coupling. Power line issues like noise or signal absorbers. Though it does sound like you have done some research before starting the project.

[Brian H]

I don't think many are using the second Zone in a DS12A but it can be used as two separate Zones.
The second zone wires where the small jumper is on the DS12As circuit board near the bottom edge.
In my installation I actually am using the external one wired to large gap magnetic switches. Mounting the sensor and magnet on my doors was not easily done. So I decided to use the external ones only. I never registered the internal ones and just registered the external ones. 

[jediagh]

The one thing the SH624 can do is duplicate the Arm Away button on the SC1200A Console if the switch on it is set to MAX. You get the exit delay to leave the home just like the consloe gives you. The Arm Button on the KR10A and KR32A do an instant Arm Away since you are most likely out of the home already.

Oh did not know this one.  Still not sure it's something I would use as you are correct I would most likely ARM the alarm once I was outside the house.  Have not tested yet but how will I know it indeed did ARM if I am outside I can't hear the DING of the SC1200 anymore?    I think I recall reading that the LAMP MODULE will turn on/off.  Not sure anymore everything is a blur in my mind right now. LOL!

Now Powerhorns. They do not trigger instantly when the light codes start being sent on the power line. It takes at least four cycles to trigger older revision ones and longer for the newer ones. So don't expect them to sound as soon as the lights start flashing. May take six or more seconds for them to start sounding.

Oh so true.  In my setup right now for testing the SC1200 will sound right away, flowed by a ramp up on on by the light and then the light turns off (this first on/off is more like a dimmer light turning on).  When the light turns back on the 2nd+ times it's a lot more like ON/OFF (as in you turned on the light full power).  It's turning the 2nd light on that the powerhorn kicks in as well.  I think it's like 7 to 8 second from when the SC1200 starts sounding.  Once you disable the SC1200 it's still another 4 to 5 second before the PowerHorn turns off.

No biggie really but something to be aware of I guess.

After you test all the stuff and move them to the place where they will be installed. If some locations don't work we can get you links to troubleshooting. Things like phase coupling. Power line issues like noise or signal absorbers. Though it does sound like you have done some research before starting the project.

Well let's hope I don't need those links.    But we will see.  I'm now looking at my actually windows and it looks like I won't be able to screw in either the magnet or the sensor switch shell to the windows.  The windows have the metal trim around them and **THEN** the wood trim.  So I might have to just use the sticky tape that came and stick the magnet and sensor on the metal part.  Does the stick last long?  Will it come off when it's time to replace the batteries?  Still having a hard time opening the new sensors.

Using a small flathead screw driver and poping them near the bottom.

Up next for me is testing the motion sensors!  Back to the "test lab" for now.

[Brian H]

The delay with the Powerhorn sounding after the on off cycles stops is also a normal thing.
I believe the powerhorn manual may say that.

Just be careful with the DS12A cases. I think there are tabs on the bottom edge that can break off. Or I am thinking of the OEM version X10 made for Radio Shack. Fuzzy memory again. 

[jediagh]

SUCCESS (in the "lab")!

All door/window sensors work!
All motion detectors work!
All powerhorns work!
The SC1200 does call out and allows me to hear what is going on.

BTW I have the SC1200 calling out via my cellphone since I don't have a landline.
Using the XLink BT via a bluetooth gateweay with my old blackberry.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00135XU7Q/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002W8PW7E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13BEJ4YJ9QAN5YDZC0FZ

The only thing I can't do (yet) is call the alarm to set it via my phone.  That is more an issue with my blackberry than the SC1200 I suspect.  As after 4 rings, my blackberry goes to voicemail.  Not sure how many rings the SC1200 needs before it picks up.  Need to figure out a way to disable my voicemail to try it.

I'm beat however.  I've been playing with this for the past 8 hours.  Tomorrow I plan on starting to install each of the sensors on the windows, doors and the motion decs as well.  Plus need to make a better looking "mapping" of where each sensor is.  My chicken scratch notes nobody can understand but me. ROFL!

[jediagh]

I don't think many are using the second Zone in a DS12A but it can be used as two separate Zones.
The second zone wires where the small jumper is on the DS12As circuit board near the bottom edge.
In my installation I actually am using the external one wired to large gap magnetic switches. Mounting the sensor and magnet on my doors was not easily done. So I decided to use the external ones only. I never registered the internal ones and just registered the external ones. 

Do you have a link/thread to more details on what you did?  I was able to install the DS12As on all my windows and one sliding door MINUS one small window which opens upward.  It looks like this:

There is just not enough room for the DS12A sensor.

I installed the DS10A sensor on my doors and if I had an extra one (which I don't) that type with the 2 connectors would fit on that window.  So now either I have to buy another DS10A or see if I can use the "2nd zone" on the DS12A.  Do they sell an add-on kit for it?

Thanks!

[Brian H]

You can set the Answer Delay in the Options Menu. It is in seconds so you would have to experiment with the time. The default time is 30 seconds.

No I don't have a diagram of how I connected the second switch.
Here is a link to how to add one to the DS10A.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Adding_A_Switch_To_A_Door_Sensor

All I did for the DS12A is remove the small jumper in the bottom connector.
Used a piece of #22. Two wire cable to connect the terminal screws on the switch, I bought. To the two terminals where the jumper was in the DS12A.  

To register the second zone. Put the SC1200A in the Install Screen and open the second zone.

You can get switches from X10 as the link above indicates or get one from any vendor that sells alarm products.
Someone here had an EBay X10 dealer order them and I believe another one stocks them.

I used a SecoLarm SM-431-T as it has a wide detection gap of 1.25". Magnet didn't have to be that close for it to work.

[Brian H]

Useful links for the X10 Knowledge Base.

http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/SecuriLINK_Home_Security_System

http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Security

http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Main_Page

Magnetic Switch I used. SM-431-T
http://www.seco-larm.com/Magnet1b.htm