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[HarleyAg]

I have recently upgraded from using the mini timer and now have ActivePro. I am currently using (4) modules (AM466) in three rooms.
I can on/off all modules using the PalmPad anywhere in the house. However ActivePro will only on/off two of the modules.
The 2 that ActivePro will operate are in a room closest and furthest, while the 2 it will not operate (they are in the same room) in the middle. So I do not think it is a range issue.

I do not understand why everything works with the PalmPad, but does not work with ActivePro.

Any suggestions?

[dave w]

Besides the CM15A, do you have any other transceivers like a TM751, or RR501? If so unplug the CM15A and plug the other transceiver in the same socket. What happens now?

[Brian H]

Range is not a physical distance with X10 power line signals.
It is things like.
Are the modules on the same half of the homes split phase wiring.
Is there some signal absorbing or noise making devices on the wiring to the unresponsive modules.

Is the CM15A AHP Interface on a power strip that has filtering in it or on the same outlet as the computer?

http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm
http://www.davehouston.net/

[Noam]

Brian -
I really have to stop writing such long posts in response to questions like this.
Invariably, by the time I finish, you've written something a lot shorter, and more  to-the-point. 

I agree with what Brian said. Sounds like a signal issue.
One thing you might try is moving the unresponsive modules to one of the outlets where the modules are working (without changing the housecode/unitcode), to make sure that AHP is addressing them properly.

[dhouston]

If you have another transceiver (RR501, TM751), the PLC output is about twice the level of the CM15A (or CM11A).

If all you have is the CM15A, then this problem is mysterious.

Did the mini-timer operate all your modules?  My mini-timer also puts out a PLC signal that is nearly double the CM15A, However, mine is several years old and newer ones may have a lower output.

[HarleyAg]

Thanks for the responses.

Here is more info from your questions....
I have the RR501 transceiver that works in conjunction with the PalmPad.
Put an extension cord on the CM15a to get it plugged into a different circuit from the computer - no change.
Right now the RR501 appears to be on the same circuit as the two modules not responding to the CM15A. When I move the RR501 to a different circuit, it operates like the CM15A, meaning it does not operate the (2) RR501s that are in the same room. Move it back to where it was and it operates all of the modules using the PalmPad.
Move the modules to a different circuit (without changing the housecode/unitcode) and they are functional with the CM15A.
I think my wireless router is in the same room and probably on the same circuit - maybe that is causing an issue?
Tried the turn on the dryer thing and nothing changed.

In conclusion, when the RR501 is on the same circuit as the 2 modules I am having the issue with, it will operate all 4 modules, but the CM15A will only operate 2 that are on a different circuit. If the RR501 is moved to a different circuit, it will do the same as the CM15A and only operate the 2 modules.

Could this one circuit be a phase issue with just this one circuit? If so, what is the fix.
Thanks in advance

[dave w]

Could this one circuit be a phase issue with just this one circuit? If so, what is the fix.

It could be a phase coupling issue and you just have not discovered all the circuits effected.
It could also be noise on the troublesome circuit. Search the forum for "noise" and "phase coupling" or go here.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://davehouston.org/noise.htm
The fix is  "repeater" and filters. Get repeater first, you may not need filters (especially if you get the "flamethrower"  XTBIIR - see #1 below)..
Repeaters in order of effectiveness (and price)
1. XTBIIR - http://jvde.us//xtb/XTB-IIR_description.htm
2. ACT CR234 - http://www.smarthome.com/4821AC/HomePro-CR234-Amplified-X10-Coupler-Repeater-w-Repeated-Signal-Detection/p.aspx
3. X10 XPCR - http://www.smarthome.com/4820X/X10-XPCR-X10-Signal-Coupler-Repeater/p.aspx

[Noam]

Filters are cheaper, and there may only be one or two devices that need to be filtered.
I recommend testing for noisy devices / circuits first, before deciding which path to take.

[dhouston]

The most likely cause is signal attenuation due to a piece of equipment that has a capacitor across the line. If the RR501 is between the culprit and the two affected modules, it can reach them; if the culprit is between the RR501 and the two affected modules, it cannot.

These can be tough to find. requiring a methodical approach. Test after unplugging devices one-by-one. A filter on the suspect device should solve the problem.

[Noam]

The most likely cause is signal attenuation due to a piece of equipment that has a capacitor across the line. If the RR501 is between the culprit and the two affected modules, it can reach them; if the culprit is between the RR501 and the two affected modules, it cannot.

These can be tough to find. requiring a methodical approach. Test after unplugging devices one-by-one. A filter on the suspect device should solve the problem.

You could take the opposite approach, too. Unplug EVERYTHING, and then add things back in until it stop working.
It may be a combination of several devices causing the problem, so the one-at-a-time method might not find them.

[dave w]

Filters are cheaper, and there may only be one or two devices that need to be filtered.

Yes but filters do nothing for phase coupling. Two transceivers can provide psuedo phase coupling until you use a wired PLC transmitter, then you lose a phase unless a pie is in the oven. I agree filters are cheaper than a repeater, unless we are talking the XPCR which really isn't a bad product when cost is figured in. But as you point out a system may still need a filter on the worst offenders. It is too bad there isn't a silver bullet.

[dhouston]

You could take the opposite approach, too. Unplug EVERYTHING, and then add things back in until it stop working.
It may be a combination of several devices causing the problem, so the one-at-a-time method might not find them.

True. Noam's method is best for a new installation. It's been a long time since I had to do this. When I have a problem, it's usually after installing a new electronic device and finding it is usually a simple matter of unplugging the newest device(s) and testing.

[Noam]

Installing a high-powered booster/coupler like XTB-IIR *probably* will fix the problem. However, it might not be needed.
I managed for several years with just a capacitor (installed across teh two phases in my A/C compressor disconnect box - it was easy to work safely in there as I could shut off the breaker, and have no live wires anywhere near me).
I bought the XTB-IIR to solve a new problem that had crept up (after doing all the testing, I still couldn't find the source - because it was in my neighbor's house across the street). The XTB-IIR fixed someother marginal signal issues I had learned to live with, but didn't actually fix the main issue. I had to buy my neighbor a new CFL to fix that.

I've seen plenty of installations where the signal path to the pole and back is short enough that the homeowner can get away without a coupler or bridge at all.
It all depends on the signal strength, signal path length, and other noise contributors.

It doesn't hurt to do some (FREE) testing before buying more stuff. It might be something as simple as replacing a buzzing light bulb.