Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[tomdrum]

Wall in dimmer switch volume control for speaker. We could control volume of  music that play everywhere in the house by the remote or cellphone.

I think that this idea its not very hard to create.

[Deemar]

Depends on the signal. I use Optical out to my receiver to give me a digital signal so it's either on or off. Any in-line analogue adjustment tool isn't going to do anything.

[dave w]

Wall in dimmer switch volume control for speaker. We could control volume of  music that play everywhere in the house by the remote or cellphone.

I think that this idea its not very hard to create.

More difficult than you think.

Does your music system have a remote control? If so use the X10 "PowerMID"  http://www.x10.com/pro/entertainment/pex01.htm to extend your IR remote. Put a PowerMID transmitter in each room you have speakers in.

[Knightrider]

I've actually toyed with rectifying the output on a spsd3 (or something like that) and feeding a signal current into an optocoupler which regulates the speaker voltage.  What I really need is a voltage controlled voltage divider.  I messed with this for one night and it went on the project shelf.  I really need to dig it out again.

[dave w]

I've actually toyed with rectifying the output on a spsd3 (or something like that) and feeding a signal current into an optocoupler which regulates the speaker voltage. 

Kewl!
Were you attenuating a 70V line?

[Tuicemen]

This can be done if one wishes to use a PC in the mix!
If you have a CM15A or CM19A and tranceiver
Of coarse you'd need a two way light module or the slimline wireless wall switch (SS13A).

You could then use a USB-Uirt and BVC or the VCR Commander and PCCompanion.
 
Note: Many newer AV devices may not be able to be controled with the VCR Commander codes.

[Deemar]

I don't think any of these suggestions are going to work for a digital signal.

[Knightrider]

where did the OP mention a digi signal?  I plan to use mine to control individual speakers fed from a single house amp.  Already use x10 to switch the sets, thought volume would be nice too. 

No point in attenuating a digi signal, when there's already software solutions to control the amp volume via x10 to IR.

[CinemaDude]

If you want to place the volume control between the main line-level signal (1v ptp analog) going into the amplifier, it can be done fairly easily.  Assuming you have an x10 remote that can activate a standard, dimable X10 module, you will need to add an external VCA (Voltage Controlled Amp).  These are easy to come by and simple to setup.  FRS Inc made one that worked beautifully (their LDR-2 two channel control).  You simply input two channels into the module which is about the size of a paperback; the output goes to your amp. 

You need variable control voltage into the module that will raise and lower the volume.  This is where the x10 remote and one lamp module come in.  You use the lamp module's output to drive the VCA.  Only slight problem here is that the control voltage must go from 0 to 12vdc (my memory may be off -- it may be 24vdc that the VCA needs - FSR's clear diagrams and directions will verify it up for you).

Thing is, of course the X10 module will be putting out the control voltage for lamps which is 120VAC.  You can't use that to control the VCA, it will blow it up.  You need to put an appropriate resistor between the X10 lamp module output and the VCA input.  Drop the voltage down so that when the X10 at full voltage, the resistor drops that down to the maximum the VCA wants to see for full volume -- 12vdc (24vdc?)  Once you figure out the right resistance, you will also need to rectify it to DC (full wave will do fine).     
 

[Knightrider]

If you want to place the volume control between the main line-level signal (1v ptp analog) going into the amplifier, it can be done fairly easily.  Assuming you have an x10 remote that can activate a standard, dimable X10 module, you will need to add an external VCA (Voltage Controlled Amp).  These are easy to come by and simple to setup.  FRS Inc made one that worked beautifully (their LDR-2 two channel control).  You simply input two channels into the module which is about the size of a paperback; the output goes to your amp. 

You need variable control voltage into the module that will raise and lower the volume.  This is where the x10 remote and one lamp module come in.  You use the lamp module's output to drive the VCA.  Only slight problem here is that the control voltage must go from 0 to 12vdc (my memory may be off -- it may be 24vdc that the VCA needs - FSR's clear diagrams and directions will verify it up for you).

Thing is, of course the X10 module will be putting out the control voltage for lamps which is 120VAC.  You can't use that to control the VCA, it will blow it up.  You need to put an appropriate resistor between the X10 lamp module output and the VCA input.  Drop the voltage down so that when the X10 at full voltage, the resistor drops that down to the maximum the VCA wants to see for full volume -- 12vdc (24vdc?)  Once you figure out the right resistance, you will also need to rectify it to DC (full wave will do fine).     
 

Is this a theoretical or practical application?  I'm having trouble working it out in my head with the resistor thing.

[dave w]

Once you figure out the right resistance, you will also need to rectify it to DC (full wave will do fine).     

You don't need to filter? The ripple doesn't influence the VCA? No buzz?

One (minor) problem is an Lamp module will always turn on at 100% after a power outage.

[kenrad]

This can be done if one wishes to use a PC in the mix!
If you have a CM15A or CM19A and tranceiver
Of coarse you'd need a two way light module or the slimline wireless wall switch (SS13A).

You could then use a USB-Uirt and BVC or the VCR Commander and PCCompanion.
 
Note: Many newer AV devices may not be able to be controled with the VCR Commander codes.

that it true T but with pcc and Ir pilot they can be    

  Ken

[Brian H]

X10 Lamp Modules stay Off after a power loss. Smarthome ones remember their last state.

You may have to take into consideration Older or Soft Start Lamp Modules.
Older ones have a higher Local Control Sensing current.
Soft Start {well all of mine anyway} do not dim down to 0%. They stop at about 25%.

The triacs in a Lamp Module also have a minimum current rating to insure proper operation. Depending on the exact triac in a module. It may pulse or not conduct smoothly.