CFL flickering after jumper snipped

[JJtech]

My CFL is flickering when off and controlled by a “466” appliance mod (Stanley brand).

According to http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Local_Control_for_Lamp_And_Appliance_Modules I snipped but still flickering?

I had it on a Rocket Socket but it seemed to flicker faster (when on) but then settle down.  Is it safe on a RS?

Suggestions for the 466 and/or RS problem (other than plugging in a night light in parallel for the 466 issue)?

Thanks!

JJ

[Brian H]

Cutting the jumper disables the local control sensing from working. It didn't disable the actual sensing voltage that caused CFLs to flicker.
There is also a diode you can cut to eliminate the current. I cut the jumper and diode in a few of mine.
There is still a real small voltage on it even with the diode and jumper cut for the relay status detector but it is very low and rarely causes problems.

Look at the Appliance Module Section of here. It shows the diode in the older modules. Just cut it so you could tack it back together if your module is different.
http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/index.htm

[JJtech]

Hey Brian,

Great article.  Is it reliable?  Nice idea of how to turn an appliance mod into a relay switch as well!

A little over my head as far as reading/interpreting the schematic.  

I don’t know if I have a “new or old” module.  It is a Stanley Model # 360-3089, inspection code of 3L51.

Just to stop the flickering, would you say I just need to cut the diode or both that and the jumper?

When you say “tack” it back together, how would you do that?

The socket rocket doesn't seem to have this local control issue.  Do you think they are safe for CFL and why does it seem to flicker very fast for the first 5 minutes before it's totally solid?

On a side note, I was shocked to find that a 3 to 2 way plug adapter some how prevented my 3 pin mods from working!  Another older adapter worked fine.  Any thoughts?

Thanks so much!  

JJ

[Brian H]

All the OEM Stanley modules made by X10 are the older models. The new CFL friendly ones from the last few years are 100% different than yours and don't look anything like your wiki articles photo.

Tack solder would be gently bending the two cut ends to touch each other and apply a small amount of solder to mend the cut.

The diode provides the sensing voltage and would be what maybe flickering the CFL. The jumper stops the module from turning back On with a CFL connected. I would try the diode.

Socket Rockets don't have any Local Control Sensing {well unless the new LM15C is different}. The flickering is most likely the CFLs electronics is not drawing enough current to keep the triac {electronic component that turns on the AC and has a minimum current requirement}. As it warms up either the CFL draws more current or the Socket Rockets electronics warm up and run more smoothly.

I will have to mull over the 2 to 3 pin thing.

[JJtech]

Thanks very much Brian!

JJ