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[dyos]

All,

I have Purchased 25 WS12A decora rocker switches throughout my house.  I also have 2 TM751 transceivers, one upstairs and one downstairs.  I'm using a remote and I can hear the TM751 click when I send a signal to code 1 since that is the device itself.  So I know the remote is communicating fine with TM751 devices over RF.  However, it does not appear the TM751 transceivers are able to transmit through the power lines to control the decora rocker switches(WS12A).  The one down stairs will work intermittently and turn off my lights but never turn them back on.   

One other important note.  I have these Belkin Powerline adapters that transmit network connectivity to a remote outlet in my house where I do not have a cat5 wiring drop.  Could the problem be the Belkin Powerline devices are conflicting with the X10 signals?

The x10 support is worthless and I'm hoping someone on here can help me out.  I've spent a ton of money on the software and everything and would like to get this functioning.  Thanks in advance for your time.

[dyos]

I also wanted to add something else.  If I move the TM751 to a different wall outlet some of the lights will work fine.  But others still not anything no matter where I move it to.

[Tuicemen]

One other important note.  I have these Belkin Powerline adapters that transmit network connectivity to a remote outlet in my house where I do not have a cat5 wiring drop.  Could the problem be the Belkin Powerline devices are conflicting with the X10 signals?

Simply unplugging the belkin devices and running a few test commands to devices that never worked before would give you a clue.
If they work with the belkins unpluged then it is a 99.9 % chance they are the problem.
 

[Brian H]

Do you have any signal coupling between the homes spit phases?
X10 signals have a difficult time bridging the incoming powers split phase. When you moved the TM751 you may have gotten the power line signal to the other phase of the home. Many here use a repeater coupler between the phases. The best is the JV Engineering XTB-IIR.

Have you done any X10 troubleshooting. Like checking for noise makers and signal suckers?
I have a power filter on my computers UPS and another one on my entertainment equipment.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm
http://www.davehouston.net/

[Noam]

For the ones that will turn off but not on, what types of bulbs are you using in those fixtures?
The WS12A needs to pass current through the bulb, so you'll run into problems with CFL or LED bulbs (which, unlike incandescent bulbs, do not have a current path through the bulb).

I agree with Tuicemen that the Belkin powerline network devices could also be contributing to the noise.
You might want to map out which switches are on which circuits, and which of those circuits are on which phases of the power in your breaker box. Your best bet it is to test a TM751 on the same circuit as the lights first, if possible. If there are no outlets on the same circuit, then pick another circuit on the same phase to test from.

[dyos]

So I unplugged the 2 Belkin gigabit transceivers and it does seem a lot more reliable.  Although one of my lights downstairs you have to push a couple of times before it comes back on.  I will look at the links you guys posted above to see what else I can figure out.  Thanks for the quick responses!

[dyos]

So I do have LED's because I'm trying to be green and conserve power.  For my chandeliers I just put one normal bulb   This way that bulb sucked the excess power and did not leave my LED's barely glowing.  Is there a better solution for this?  Some kind of hack?

[Brian H]

The WS12A two wire switches. Steal power through the load and are made for incandescent bulbs.
As you found adding one incandescent bulb usually calms things down.
Maybe someone has a fix as I have not had much success using a added load resistor with a WS12A as I have with Lamp and Appliance Modules.

Some LED bulbs also make enough power line noise to make X10 problems. They should also be dimmable so they have a better chance of working with a WS12A.

[dyos]

One other question I have for everyone.  Whenever I turn on one switch the light connected to another switch will flicker off for a split second.  Not a major problem but just annoying.  Any tips on this?

[dave w]

One other question I have for everyone.  Whenever I turn on one switch the light connected to another switch will flicker off for a split second.  Not a major problem but just annoying.  Any tips on this?

I have never heard of that being an X10 problem. How big is the load on the switch you are activating? Are both switches WS12A?

[Brian H]

How did you get the LED bulbs to work correctly with your WS12As?

[dyos]

I'm not sure.  In my kitchen I have 10 LED recessed lights those ones work without a problem.  I then have 3 chandeliers these work by simply replacing one bulb with a regular light bulb.  Obviously not energy efficient but the way I understand it sucks the left over electricity that the WS12 requires to power itself.  In my bathrooms I have vanity lights LED 4 of them and they do not stay lit.  In my hallway I have 1 LED light which just stays lit at the lowest level on the WS12 dimmer. So it's like a night light.  Not sure how much energy this takes up.  I also have 1 LED recessed light in my upstairs bathroom that works fine as well.  Bought it at home depot.

[Brian H]

Thanks for the added information.
I have never seen an X10 command momentarily flicker another switch Off.
I have seen reports of some Insteon Hardware Revision Dimmer type switches flicker with power line commands to other devices.
So a semieducated guess is. The electronics in the WS12A and LED bulbs maybe reacting to an X10 power line signal to another module.