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[JTD]

I have an x10 controlled swimming pool completed in 1997.  As near as I can remember, all components are original.  To troubleshoot a flaky problem that has developed, I would like to move to a different channel.  The switch controlling the pool motor is, I think, likely a predecessor to the XPS2.  There is a skinny removable plastic piece that goes around the rocker plate... I can get that off.  I can't decide if it's a lock of some sort, or a spacer.  I can't however, get the actual rocker plate off.  I'm not sure how removal works, and I don't want to break anything... the plastic has 20 years of AZ heat on it.

I don't see an easy way to insert or attach an image of my switch.

Can someone give me some guidance on removing the rocker plate from this older switch so I can access the channel select switches.

Thanks!

[Brian H]

If it is a 220 Volt switch.
Here is the manual for an XPS2 that may give you some assistance.
http://www.authinx.com/manuals/X10/XPS2.pdf

I will look around and see if I can see in an early X10 book. A previous model.

Newbie membership status. Has some limitations. I believe photos can be added when you have a regular membership status.

[dave w]

The 220V XPS2 should be easy to get off. But your description sounds like it could be the 120V 20A XPS3. ("There is a skinny removable plastic piece that goes around the rocker plate... I can get that off")  In both units everything just "pops" off. But 20 years of UV and "pops off" turns to "crumble". Those pieces are not replaceable so you are probably looking at a new switch. If the switch has an LED indicator then it may be an XPS3.

But getting a little nosy here. Why do you want to change House Code or Unit Code? I ask because X10 is susceptible to electronic noise generated by some "switching" power supplies, some CFL bulbs, and some LED bulbs. Most "wall wart" power adaptors, power bricks for laptop computers, some flat panel TVs, etc will generate noise.

Typically noise simply stops an X10 switch or dimmer from responding to a command from a remote controller,  as the digital code on the power line never gets to the target module. This non response can come and go (unplug phone from charger, turn off offending CFL or LED bulb, etc. and normal operation may resume). If any of this describes your "flakey problem" changing X10 codes will likely NOT fix your problem. You have to stop the noise. Many sources for ways of doing this. Best one is:
 
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

If any of this sound familiar, provide some description and maybe we can pin down the problem without crumbling the pump switch.

[JTD]

Brian H's PDF shows what I wish the switch looked like, but it doesn't.  I think there must have been a redesign somewhere along the way... or, it isn't an old XPS2.

Dave W... my switch has no LEDs.  I'm making the assumption that power to the motor is 240v, but it could be 220v, and if so, an old version of an XPS3 if there is such a thing.

It's ok to be nosy when you're attempting to assist someone.  My problem started a couple of weeks ago when we returned and found the pool running when it shouldn't be.  As my wife and I pondered whether someone was using the pool why we were out of town, the pool suddenly shut off, and then a few seconds later, started back up.  The timer (Intermatic T104R) was working as it should.  It was about 112 degrees, so I got to thinking maybe I have a heat sensitive component.  That's when I started down the road of trying to remember how X10 works.  There shouldn't have been any house line noise, but it's possible there were surges as the a/c units came on and off.

My controller is an old Radio Shack 61-2677C.  I noted that the "off" switch for the motor is not working, but the "all lights on/off" functions correctly.  That controller sits in a kitchen window that does get a bit of heat, and it's old, so I've ordered a replacement (not Radio Shack) controller to see what happens.

Ever since that one episode, everything has worked great.  My desire to pop that cover is simply to (1) learn how it works, and (2) perhaps change the channel as a debugging technique.  Since it is working fine now, I'll shotgun the controller on general principals.  I likely not change the channel now since things are working, but I'd like to figure out how to remove the rocker plate in case I really need to in the future.  I just don't want to physically break it by applying force where I shouldn't.

[Brian H]

If it is an XPS3 or X10 WS13. It is an 120 VAC module.
Here is the wiki page so you may compare it to what you have.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/XPS3

Here is the update XPS4 manual.
It shows where the House Code and Unit Code dials are located.
It too may give you some added information.
If the module you have is an older one. The paddle and face plate maybe similar
http://www.authinx.com/manuals/X10/XPS4-IS.pdf

One thing we have seen with older modules in use for awhile. Sometimes the House Code and Unit Code switches get dirty and sometimes intermittently change their settings. Rotating around a few times cleans them up.

Here is a great set of tutorials on troubleshooting.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

Some basics and X10 and how it works.
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/how-x10-works/

[JTD]

Thanks to the suggestions and advice offered, my problem is now solved.

FYI...

The key to the problem was found in the data sheets for the XPS3 and XPS4.  Whomever wrote the documentation apparently "switched horses in the middle of the stream," so to speak.  The illustration at the top of the documentation calls the switch plate a "rocker."  You can search all day long and not find that word used elsewhere in the documentation.  When you break down and actually read the documentation, you find in instruction sequence #11 that the switch plate is now called a "paddle" and it told me where to pry.  I was able to get the rocker off, spin the dials to insure they are clean, and take lots of photos for the next time it acts up.

Bottom line...

My x10 pool motor switch is a Leviton Cat. 6291.  It never uses the word "LED," but it does have a dim red "indicator" that remains on as long as there is power to the device.  If you google around, you can still find data sheets for this device.  It's my opinion, right or wrong, that the next time this switch acts up I can replace it with an XPS3, or preferably, an XPS4.  Also, reading the #6291 documentation I found the device to be 15A rated; the printing on the side of the switch however, calls it a 20A UL listed "Appliance Control."

Thanks for you help!

[Brian H]

I am glad you have the problem corrected.

XPS4 would be a suitable replacement.
As it has upgraded electronics with AGC.
The Leviton also had AGC.

[dave w]

Dave W... my switch has no LEDs.  I'm making the assumption that power to the motor is 240v, but it could be 220v, and if so, an old version of an XPS3 if there is such a thing.

Sorry, I should have called it an "indicator" rather than LED. Also there is no distinction between 220V and 240V, I just notice X10 uses "240V" in the user guides.

Looks like Brian H (as always) has you going in the proper direction. You do have a 120V pump.