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[mikeythemars]

This may seem like a very basic question, but I am planning on installing an XPCP passive coupler and want to be sure I am clear on the connections between the breakers on the board and the unit. 

Specifically, the PDF online that shows the install instructions for the XPCP states that it requires 240 VAC.  The graphic on the instructions shows that power connection (labeled "LI" and L2")  coming from what appears to be a double throw breaker pesumably wired for 240V.  What I want to know is if I can connect those two lines to two separate single throw 20 AMP breakers (one on Phase A and the other on phase B), each supplying 120volts to the XCPC.   Presumably, that would be replicating what the double throw breaker in the instructions is doing.   The reason i'd like to do this is I have two open breaker slots at the top of the board, which would allow me to have the XPCP connected to dedicated breakers (no double taps,  which are against code).   I do not have any have any open space on the board for a new double throw breaker.             

[Knightrider]

I'd just slide some single pole breakers around till I had a double pole space available.  What you propose can be done, but probably shouldn't. Fire investigators look at such things, even if such a configuration had nothing to do with a fire.

[mikeythemars]

Thanks Nightrider.  I can move some breakers to open up a double pole position.    I assume the point you are making is not having two separate breakers supplying a single 240 VAC device.   Frankly, the instructions X10 has up show another issue, which is someone assuming based on the illustration that they can double up wires to an existing 240VAC breaker.  If their assumption was someone was going to already conveniently happen to have an unused double pole breaker on their board or install a new one that could be solely dedicated to the XPCP,  they should have stated that (all the install instructions say on that matter is "connect L1 terminal to L1 breaker terminal and L2 terminal to L2 breaker terminal."   

[brobin]

While you can't put two wires under the same screw terminal of a breaker (unless the breaker is specifically listed to accept two wires), the NEC does allow a pigtail from the breaker to multiple wires using a properly sized wire nut.  The reason for not allowing two wires on the terminal is possible arcing or overheating from a poor mechanical connection.  As for using two single breakers for a 240 circuit, that's ok ONLY if there is a clip or bar connecting the two handles so that if one trips the other will shut off as well. Of course, they still need to be adjacent to do that.  The reason for that is so that if the protected appliance trips a breaker you won't still have 120 present at the appliance.  Bottom line - if you have room for the dedicated breaker for the XPCP that would be best but if not you can use a pigtail to serve both the appliance and the XPCP.  If you do that, try to avoid using a circuit with a high startup draw like an AC condenser and instead use a dryer or oven breaker.  Years ago I used a UL listed bridging capacitor across the breaker for an AC condenser in a panel in our bedroom closet.  At about 4:30 one morning we were awakened by what sounded like a gunshot.  Scared the crap out of us!  Apparently, when the AC kicked on the cap exploded with such force that there was soot on the wall along the outside edge of the panel cover. The breaker didn't even trip.  Lesson learned!

[Brian H]

I would look at the breaker mapping. Usually on the panel or its cover. If it was two slots for 1/2 Sized breakers. It is possible both slots are on the same line input.

[brobin]

Brian makes a good point.  Here's a photo of some of the kinds of breakers you might find in a panel. The top one is what you want to add or pigtail from as it is connected to both L1 & L2 with the clip forcing both off when either trips.  The bottom one is a full size 120 circuit on L1.  The ones outlined in yellow are what Brian is referring to. Those provide two circuits from one slot so the two 15 amp circuits in the photo are on one 120 leg (L1) and the two 20 amp circuits are on the other leg (L2).  Those are called Tandem breakers and often referred to as "cheaters" as they allow adding more circuits without adding another panel.

[JeffVolp]

They also make quad breakers that have two independent 15 or 20 amp circuits along with a 240V circuit:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Homeline-20-Amp-4-Pole-Quad-Circuit-Breaker/3471085

That is what I used in our home.

Jeff

[bkenobi]

The quad looks like a pair of double/cheater breakers tied together with a trip coupler.  I assume it's locked together with a couple screws, but mechanically I assume it's identical.  I hadn't seen that before, interesting!

[brobin]

Before you head out the door to your local big box take a close look at the labels on your existing breakers and/or the label on the inside of the door to determine what kind you need for your panel.  Even within the same brand there can be different series that are NOT compatible.  For example, Square D's "QO" and "Homeline" breakers are not interchangeable so you have to know what brand and model panel you have.  That's not to say you can't use a GE, C-H or Siemens (to name a few) breaker in a Square D panel but it has to be interchangeable with what you have.  When we had an AC guy install a mini-split in the garage last month he brought a GE double pole breaker that would have fit in a Homeline panel only to find that he needed to make a trip to HD to pick up a QO style. 

[dave w]

  At about 4:30 one morning we were awakened by what sounded like a gunshot.  Scared the crap out of us! 

Yeah, besides using a 500 or 600V cap, it needs to be rated for AC (X class).

[brobin]

  At about 4:30 one morning we were awakened by what sounded like a gunshot.  Scared the crap out of us! 

Yeah, besides using a 500 or 600V cap, it needs to be rated for AC (X class).

Indeed it was. It was made by Panasonic specifically for bridging the powerline legs.  Figured I'd "do it right" with a cap rated for the job instead of the Sprague orange drop ones that I had used without issue for years.  My mistake was putting it on a breaker for the AC condenser instead of a less demanding load.  The startup draw on the condenser was too much for it I guess.

[mikeythemars]

I'd just slide some single pole breakers around till I had a double pole space available.  What you propose can be done, but probably shouldn't. Fire investigators look at such things, even if such a configuration had nothing to do with a fire.

Because our 200 amp board is pretty much already full (the only open slot left is a sole single pole one), I ended up removing an existing dual pole GFI 30 amp breaker that was connected to a pump on a spa bathtub we have in an upstairs bathroom, (no one in the family has used that spa feature in years). I replaced that breaker with a 20 amp dual pole one, which is connected solely to the XPCP. If for some reason I decide in the future that I want to reactivate the spa, I'll bring in an electrician to add a small sub panel to handle it. I've heard inspectors here frown on feeding a sub off a breaker on the main board and the way my late 1960s GE breaker board is designed, tapping into the main leads on it is tricky, so I'd leave that up to a pro.   

[brobin]

You mentioned you have one slot left in the panel (I'll assume it's a t the bottom). If there is a single breaker in the slot above it and another above that one, you could use a "cheater" as pictured earlier to eliminate the breaker in the slot above the open one.  Then you'll have two open slots to put your spa back in service.