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[petera]

Absolutely.

The distribution upgrade can be a little trickier though. Mono can be a nightmare during a distribution upgrade as it spawns many folders in Linux. I’ve seen so many people tearing their hair out with that one particularly as in the case of a HomeGenie the recommendation is to install Mono from the project page and not from the distribution repository.

I generally find it easier to do a /home folder backup, a fresh install and a restore when moving between distributions. You can see that with a change in distribution between Stretch and Buster the recommenced Gdebi installer for HomeGenie fails. I suppose that’s why I made that post earlier about upgrading from Stretch to Buster to help others who couldn’t move on.

[Tuicemen]

I always recommend updating to the newest version for a number of reasons. My automation season hasn't started yet but I plan to revise the PiX10Hub image to Buster.  Following petera's step by step post would be just as easy for existing users.

[dave w]

Automation is my winter project (every winter). It would be silly for me to do anything that might limit my automation's growth... and my own enjoyment.

Then I hope you have geared up. Supposed to snow tomorrow, and I still have a yard full of leaves...sigh.

[soxfan1966]

I always recommend updating to the newest version for a number of reasons. My automation season hasn't started yet but I plan to revise the PiX10Hub image to Buster.  Following petera's step by step post would be just as easy for existing users.

Was thinking about this.  Rather than just getting an SD card with the latest software and putting in my Pi Zero W  I was  going to get another Pi and use that to upgrade the software.

Would that make sense?  Is there another Pi that would be recommended (i. E. Pi 4) ?

[Tuicemen]

Not all Pis are the same image from one modle will not always work in the other. So if you wish to have one for simply doing upgrades get the same model your setup os on,  the zero w.
 

[petera]

I always recommend updating to the newest version for a number of reasons. My automation season hasn't started yet but I plan to revise the PiX10Hub image to Buster.  Following petera's step by step post would be just as easy for existing users.

Was thinking about this.  Rather than just getting an SD card with the latest software and putting in my Pi Zero W  I was  going to get another Pi and use that to upgrade the software.

Would that make sense?  Is there another Pi that would be recommended (i. E. Pi 4) ?

Not really.

Why would you want two separate servers doing the same job. Unnecessary redundancy.

If you're just using X10 and maybe some IP cams your Pi Zero W is well up for the job. Anything outside of that the choice is endless.

The Pi 3+, the Pi 4 which is buggy and not recommended, the Rock64 4Gb unit which is an animal with the same profile as the Pi and the Odroid etc etc. The choice is endless. Just stay up to date as far as the OS is concerned on whatever board you use.

[soxfan1966]

I would not run both at the same time.  One would be a backup system.

[petera]

I would not run both at the same time.  One would be a backup system.

Take an SD image of your card. You can write it back to your SD card at any stage though I doubt you would need to. As I said stick with your Pi Zero W unless you needed to add some serious processor/memory intensive applications on top of HomeGenie.

[bevhoward]

I too have been using X10 since the BSR days in the mid 70's and I am desperately trying to continue doing so.

I have almost a 100 devices spread over three house codes throughout our 2,000 sq/ft 3 story house and a detached studio almost 100' from the house and they have simply "worked" over the decades...

...until the introduction of LED lighting.  We are in a semi-rural area and we are the only home on our transformer, so, we have not been subject to interference from adjacent homes.  I ran into, and addressed, some distance issues when we built the studio in 2000, but really wanted to be Eco-responsible and have introduced first halogen, then CF and eventually LED's over the past couple of decades and it's clear that LED's especially are X10 hostile.

The clearest example was when I replaced the 10 florescent tubes in my shop with LED tubes and effectively lost the ability to control almost half of the X10 units despite a high end phase coupler/repeater.  Turn the shop lights off, and everything X10 works.  Somewhere someone described LED units as "black holes that suck X10 powerline signals."

I'm still trying, experimenting with boosters, filters, etc with limited success.  I've trained myself to religiously turn off the shop lights every time I exit the shop, and I am hopeful to be able to continue.

The alternative options have serious limitations compared to X10, including the ability to introduce serious malware and privacy problems inside of strong firewalls.  Nothing I have found has my favorite "ALL OFF" command that I use more than any other.

I need all the help I can get.

Beverly Howard

[Brian H]

Well the Cadillac of repeater-couplers. Is the JV Digital Engineering XTB-IIR. It blasts over a 10 volt X10 signal back on both incoming lines of the power. It has been a cure for many users here.
http://jvde.us/xtb-iir.htm

[Tuicemen]

First gen LED lights were bad for x10 most of the newer ones I've installed I don't  have a problem with.
My off grid place is totaly LEd lighting the only time I have issues with X10 is when
My back up generator kicks in an even then it rarely causes a issue.

[bkenobi]

I have been using the XTB-IIR for ~8 years and it's worked great.  I replaced my shop lights last year (fluorescent tubes to LED) and used the XTBM to confirm that the modules were not a problem.  After installing, I confirmed full functionality.  I replaced some outdoor spot lights with LED as well and found a brand that was a non-issue for X10 and again, 100% working.  I replaced my exterior sconce lights with ones using Feit bulbs which also caused no issue.  I installed some LED ceiling fixtures also which posed no problem.

I would agree that some LED are problematic.  I would also say that some LED are zero issue.  I guess the only way to know if it's a problem is to try it with an XTBM or equivalent.  I have found that it's really it or miss and in most cases it's ok.