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[capple]

I am having the same trouble. In my trouble
shooting I found this..  1. If I put the
transmitter (in my case it  is a DS7000
Alarm system) on the same  breaker as the
lights seemed to work.  2. tonight I changed
one of the four CFL's  to a normal
incandescent type. Working for  now. I will
see if the circuit turn off come  morning.
3. Sometimes they worked. Most of the time
not.    Is there an in line noise filter to
put on  at the light switch?  I do not want
to move the base station. It  is in my bed
room I like this for I can see  what zones
my be open.    ? Has anyone seen if a
base station that  is on a AFI type circuit
breaker produce  undesirable results? That
is the new Breaker  Bed rooms are required
to be on.

update:
Nope did not and will not turn off.    ??
will a signal amp drive the signals over
the noise to produce better reliability?

[joe]

I know this is going to sound weird, but I
did a test on my system and believe this is
the answer. First I have the same issue as
you. It was suggested that the phase on my
house wiring was screwed up... Very old
house I live in with a two-wire system. To
test this I went out and flipped my power
meter. ALL PROBLEMS WENT AWAY. What does
this mean? Ok I did flip the meter back, by
the way... BUT, what this means is some of
the wires through the breaker box are wired
backwards. You have a hot and a neutral,
which are swapped out somehow in the ages of
house renovation. To fix the phase being out
by 180 degrees take a .1mfd capacitor which
is sufficient in size to handle pass through
and install it between the two hot leads of
your incoming house wiring. Meaning at the
breaker box you have hot, ground, neutral…
between hot and neutral you place the
capacitor and this brings your electricity
back in phase, so X10 will be able to
function. I suggest you have an electrician
do this for you, as you need to pull the
meter to facilitate safe installation of the
Capacitor. One could build a filter that
would work at the point you have something
plugged in as well I am sure.

[capple]

Point one: I will clear up. I'm a Electridian
just with out the test behind me (Apentis
starting to study for test)

Point two: My home is two years old. and I
have a 200 amp 220VAC panle. I'm sure my
hots and nutrals are not swaped.

?? you must only have 110vac in you home
then???

I'm sure all whites are nutrals and black
and reds are hots

[capple]

Point one: I will clear up. I'm a
Electrician just with out the test behind me
(Apentis starting to study for test)

Point two: My home is two years old. and I
have a 200 amp 220VAC panel. I'm sure my
hots and neutrals are not swapped.

?? you must only have 110vac in you home
then???

I'm sure all whites are neutrals and black
and reds are hots.

[dave w]

Joe, you got a few things a little mixed up.

Your breaker box will have a Hot, Neutral,
and Hot, and probably a bare copper ground
wire. Hot 1 and Hot 2 are 180 degrees out of
phase. Don't try and fix that...thats the
way they should be. The potential between
these two Hots is 220V. If you have 220V
stove, AC, dryer, etc those appliances will
be wired between the two Hots. Each Hot when
measured to nuetral will measure 110V. The
cap goes between the two Hots and couples
the X10 powerline signal from one phase (hot
1) to the other phase (hot 2). The cap does
not go from Hot to neutral as that would
just shunt all the X10 signal to ground
(neutral is same potential as ground).

However I think a phase coupler would be a
much safer way for you to go. It would go in
the breaker box and be wired to two
adjoining breakers. Much, much, safer than
putting a cap in your meter box, which will
probably upset your power company a great
deal (how do you do that with out breaking
the meter seal?) and creates a very unsafe
condition as the cap is before any fuse or
breaker.
FWIW