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[donald mcmow]

BAKERBOB: The one thing you might want to
look at is how the switch is wired. I don't
know if this will have an impact, I am not
an electrician. The HOT might have been
wired on the neutral leg - and with the
light on the signal would be able to get
through to the circutry. But with the
switch off - there is no connection to the
circutry and the switch can't "hear" the on
signal. Any comments or am I applying DC
ideas to AC components?

[donald mcmow]

An other thing is I know that there are
switches that have a minimum wattage
requirement - If your light is less than 40
watts(example only) it will not operate
properly - above this minimum the switch
operates all the time. Some switches are
rated only with incandescent lights and not
for use with flourescent lights. Is there
anything on that line that could be sucking
up the signal (ie: photocopier,
computer/printer, other lighting, UPS or
other power supply, transformers, powerbar
with surge suppresion, TV) - these can all
modify the quality of the ac power coming
to your switch. They will absorb the X10
PLC signal or introduce a lot of noise on
to the power line that will cause
intermittent operation. Can you check to
see if another switch works OK (maybe
another model of switch). Can you turn the
switch on with another X10 device - just
not able to use AHP/CM15A or does the
switch just not work unless it has been
manually turn on first?

[bakerbob]

Hi Don, The signal bridge I purchased is a
SmartHome SignaLinc plugged into my dryer
220v outlet 2' from the electric panel..I do
not have a dryer hooked to it.  The wall
switch I'm having trouble with is my o/s 60
watt patio light.  It's located just 15' from
the CM15A ...no other nasty power
supplies.sources other than my computer near.
My HR12A and my SC503 will not turn on the
switch either, but will dim the module and
turn it off if it is turned on manually.The
wiring that goes to the wall switch
(blue/black) have been switched back n'
fourth with null results.  The house wiring
that goes to the o/s light will work just
fine with plug in module (such as a lamp or
appliance module)...it's just the darn wall
switch that failes to activate ( I've tried
three others and none of the x-10 work]  I
did have a wall switch connected to the
diningroom light, but removed it as it would
not work either.  Thanks for all your help.

[donald mcmow]

Check to see if you can activate the switch
using any of the other wall switches (ie:
WS12A, WS14A). Also see if you can turn it
on by using an appliance module instead of
the WS467. Have you moved the switch to
another location to see if you can activate
it from there - I would assume that you
didn't have a hand in the construction of
your house - and as such you don't know how
the electricians wired it. Is the dining
room light on the same breaker as the O/s
light - if so then there may be more
problems with this particular line than you
realize.