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[Captain Jon]

I recently bought the CM15A and a few lamp
modules. I was able to download the
software and set up a few macros to handle
the lamps reasonably well... However, I now
bought a few wall switch (WS467) modules
but I cannot control them at all!!

Using the switch on the module I can turn
on and off the light... but using the
software I can't do anything with the light
switches!

As an aside the hardware config shows that
the transceived house codes include the one
for this module.

On a separate question... after
programming the CM15A I disconnected the
USB cable and (with batteries installed)I
moved the unit to another wall switch in
the house... However, on the few macros I
had set up only part of them would function
(triggered from a slim plate remote wall
switch). Shouldn't this work?? Can it be
moved after it is programmed?

[david k]

Without much more information, I would
think you need a phased coupler for you
home.  A good test is to take one of the
lamp modules and a lamp that you know works
around the house and plug into outlets.
Use the remote control to turn the light on
and off.  Don't be surprised to find about
half of your outlets do not work everytime.

This is very common for X10 users and
larger homes.

Not good news but if a coupler fixes your
problem you got it good!

Luck

[Captain Jon]

David... thanks for the reply.

I tried your test and you are right! Quite
a few outlets or circuits do not work! What
causes this??

What is a "phased coupler" and where does
one get one?

Does anyone have an answer on moving the
CM15A after it is programmed?

[Noam]

In most homes in the US, electrical power is
split into two phases, with half ouf your
outlets and lights on one, and the rest on
the other. 220 Volt appliances (A/C unit, or
electric oven, stove, dryer) connect to both
phases. X10 signals don't have an easy
pathway between the two phases, A Phase
Coupler bridges teh two, and allows signals
to pass from one side to the other. There
are more descriptive explanations out there,
and I'm sure someone is going to post a link
to one of them (someone always does).
As for moving the CM15A after it has been
programmed, you need to make sure that it
has fresh batteries in it (the batteries
keep the memory alive when you unplug it
from an outlet to move it, and only work for
about 48 hours of "unplugged" time.)
Also, if the timers and maros are not stored
in the CM15A (by clicking the
checkbox "store in interface") then they
won't work when the CM15A is not connected
to the PC.

[chris arnold]

I have the same problem and found a couple
of phase couplers (if you have a 220V
outlet somewhere like your stove or
dryer).  I will be ordering one soon, but
based on what I have read, it seems to work
for a lot of people.

Just make sure to check if it is a 3 prong
or 4 prong.

http://www.smarthome.com/4816B2.HTML

http://www.smarthome.com/4816a2.html

[david k]

I made my own with the info from here:
www.laureanno.com/Coupler-and-Blockers.html

It all wires in line.   I placed in a
pastic box from radio shack and done.

You can buy one for about $15 almost
anywhere online that does HA.  I like
HNAUSA.com myself.

Luck

[Captain Jon]

Thanks for the replies...

I am coming to the conclusion that I do
need a phase coupler. However before I oder
one I have an additional question... I see
that there are couplers units and
coupler/repeater combination units (for
more $)... Which is the recommended way to
go?

Having done a bit more research on X10
technology (not that I understand it all!)
I read that X10 modules require a neutral
wire!!

The light that I am currently trying to get
to work has a 3-wire power line coming in
to power 2 light switches and send power on
to the rest of the circuit. All the white
neutral wires are capped together and the
black wires are the ones connected to the
switches. Does this mean that I do not have
a neutral wire to attach to the X10 switch
or that one of the black wires acts as the
neutral? I thought that you only connect a
white wire when you are the end of a
circuit..

[bob white]

If you have a 220 volt electric dryer or air
conditioner, try it when one of them is
working. They work as a phase coupler when
operating.

[chris arnold]

Regarding the nuetral (white) wire - all
switches and dimmers I have seen just
interrupt the hot (black) side, so you will
not see a neutral connection.

X10 just needs the X10 device in the circuit
somehow, which is accomplished even with a
simple switch or dimmer.

[carmine pacifico]

Low cost X10 switches get the power trough
the load, no neutral connection required;
that is the reason why they do not work
with any lights that have ballast or
transformer.
I still recommend a commercial passive
coupler/blocker installed at the panel(by
an electrician), this device not only allow
X10 signal to pass both phases, it else
blocks X10 signal from entering your home,
eliminating a lot of grief if next door
else installs X10 devices.
Unless you are skilled with electrical
wiring I would suggest you get help,
improper wiring can damage switches, and
potential harm user.

[SteveRF]

I agree with Carmine regarding passive coupler.
I had a similar problem with my CM15a/home
automation systema nd installed a commercial
passive coupler about a week later.  All of
my phase signal loss problems disappeared.  I
installed my passive coupler on an inside
power panel located in my utility room.  I
purchased a receptacle box,  a short length
of plastic conduit, a recptacle box cover and
wired the unit across a 220v breaker.  The
coupler required 2 hot and one neutral
connection.  It was a piece of cake to
install and solved the problems with my
signal loss between phases.
Good Luck !
SteveRF

[Captain Jon]

Thanks again for the replies...

Carmine & SteveRF… You both recommend the
passive coupler installed at the panel…
Unfortunately I do not consider myself
skilled enough to install the unit myself
and the cost to have an electrician do it
starts to make this project questionable!
If I understand it correctly the only
benefit to this type of coupler versus the
plug-in variety is that it blocks X10
signals from entering the house… is this
right?

Bob White… If I understand correctly, you
are telling me that while a 220 volt
appliance is running (like an electric
clothes dryer or an oven) it effectively
works as a phase coupler… I tried this with
2 appliances (the dryer and the oven) and
interestingly the oven acted like a phase
coupler (allowing for control of the
switches and outlets that normally can’t be
controlled) however the dryer had no
effect!! Any idea as to why this would be?
Does it have anything to with where the
circuit breaker is located on the power
panel? My problem is that my only 220 volt
receptacle, for a plug-in coupler, is on
the dryer… the oven is a built-in unit!!

Assuming that I still do need a plug-in
coupler… can anyone tell me what benefits
there are between the two types of couplers
being sold… i.e. couplers units and
coupler/repeater combination units??

[marty]

Captain Jon,

Your phase coupling test with the dryer and
the stove doesn't surprise me at all.
In my home, I have five 220 volt
appliances; water heater, furnace, a/c,
stove, and dryer.  The furnace and a/c are
the only 2 appliances that are older than a
year and the only 2 that actually allowed
phase coupling when turned on.

The other appliances are less than a year
old and (I'm guessing) have more
sophisticated circuitry that isn't allowing
the phase coupling.  I'll let the experts
answer that one.

I now have a phase coupler/repeater that is
plugged into the dryer outlet.  It's
working quite nicely, too.

My point is this.... I think the ability to
pass the phase coupling test depends on the
appliance... not where it's plugged in.
Even though my new dryer (when on) didn't
allow the phase coupling, the phase
coupler/repeater I bought and plugged into
the dryer outlet is working just fine.

Any of you experts out there can confirm
this theory of mine or blow it away if need
be.  I'm only going by my experience and
what worked in my home.

Marty

[Tigger]

 
If turning on your oven fixed your problem,
then you should probably just get the
SmartHome plug-in COUPLER only,
and be done with it.

This assumes that your home has a 220-Volt
DRYER OUTLET.

A *COUPLER* (or Bridge, as some people call
it) allows the X-10 signals in your home to
cross over from one PHASE to the next.

(In layman's terms, your 240-volt service is
split into two PHASES, each with 120-volts.
Parts of your home are on ONE phase, the
rest is on the other phase.)


A *REPEATER* (or Booster) listens for a
signal on the line, and then AMPLIFIES it
and re-sends it.  This is done without
duplicating signals.  How this is actually
accomplished is too involved to explain.

As far as I  know, all of the REPEATERS
on the market need to be hard-wired.

The repeater is also wired to a 240-volt
circuit, and requires a neutral wire.

If you are going to install one yourself,
please keep in mind the following items,
to make sure that you are CODE COMPLIANT:

Do *NOT* install a repeater, or any other
electronic components INSIDE your breaker
panel.

Do *NOT* attach this device to any breaker
larger than 20-Amp, or as listed on the
installation instructions.

Whatever breakers are used, it must be
a DOUBLE-POLE, COMMON TRIP breaker.

If the device fails, and is on a 30, 40,
or 50-amp breaker, you could cause a fire.

If an insurance company discovers this, or
finds that it was installed in a breaker box,
they could deny your insurance claim !

I hope this helps. . .


T

[ridgerun]

Thanks for all the information in this thread. I'm new to x10 and this info has been great for me. Right now I'm just planning/reading and will get a starter kit soon. I'll know I'll need coupler.

2 Questions:

1- My home has 2 fuse boxes. 1 fuse box has 220 and 110,  the other has only 110. I think the plug in coupler/booster will phase couple the circuits in the 220 fuse box. I'm guessing the circuits from the other fuse box (only 110)  won't be phase coupled with the 220 plug-in and I might need to phase couple 110 only Fuse box another way (may have not choice but to put one in this box)?. Am misunderstanding? Is the a solution other than getting an electrician to do this (I don't want to risk doing it myself)

2- For the 220, I'd can use the 4 prong plug-in, but do I order the 220 60Hz or the 110 60Hz?

Thanks