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[ksungela]

HI,
I want to use the palm remote to turn my floodlights on/off, not the motion sensor.  What seting do I need to make on the floodlight to make this happen.
Thanks
Ken

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

The best suggestion I can make is to set the "RANGE" to "MIN", set the "DUSK" to "DARK", set the "TIME DELAY" to "0.1", set the "THIS UNIT" switch to "SENSOR" and put some light blocking material over the front of the "MOTION MONITOR" just for good measure.

[TakeTheActive]

...I want to use the palm remote to turn my floodlights on/off, not the motion sensor.  What seting do I need to make on the floodlight to make this happen.

Why don't you just buy a 'plain-vanilla' floodlight fixture (Home Depot / Lowes - no photocells, no motion detector; just 2 lamp sockets and a base) and control it with an X-10 Wall Switch? 

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Good advice... if you haven't already installed the 511.   

-Bill-

[TakeTheActive]

Good advice... if you haven't already installed the 511.   

Yeah, but... 

The best suggestion I can make is to set the:

• "RANGE" to "MIN"
• "DUSK" to "DARK"
• "TIME DELAY" to "0.1"
• "THIS UNIT" switch to "SENSOR"
• and put some light blocking material over the front of the "MOTION MONITOR" just for good measure

seems like such a KLUDGE.   

Why did he buy a PR511 if he doesn't want to utilize the "Built-In" features? 

Now, I actually SEPARATED the two parts of the PR511 in my last install. Originally, I had a Heath SL-5320 (hardwired to Housecode 'C' - remember those days?), that I replaced with a PR511, wired as prescribed. But, after a few years of using my CM11A (and reading about the Leviton Floods), I wired the second PR511 differently. Instead of letting the internal relay control the floods, I wired the floods directly to an X-10 Wall Switch (so the internal relay does *NOTHING*). But, I put the PR511 on my "Motion Sensors" Housecode and use it to trigger macros:

• Sunset / Dusk - 4.5 hours worth of internal lights ON and DIMMING
• Sunrise / Dawn - massive OFF commands to insure 'things' aren't running 24x7 while we're away on vacation, etc...
• Motion Detected - enhanced to simulate the Leviton

So now, motion in the back yard turns on both the back yard and front yard floods (and vica versa).

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Just to elaborate,

The installation on my "manufactured home"  was so difficult that even if I wanted to replace the unit with something "simpler", the thought of going through all of that again would seriously deter me.

I agree, why buy something with all the features if you don't want to use them?

My point, however, was that if you already have it and don't want to spend the extra money (and/or frustration) with replacing it, maybe the settings I supplied would make it work well enough for now.

-Bill-

[TakeTheActive]

...The installation on my "manufactured home"  was so difficult that even if I wanted to replace the unit with something "simpler", the thought of going through all of that again would seriously deter me.

Either way, you *STILL* have to climb the ladder! 

And, I'm pretty confident in stating that there's 'probably' a SPST switch already in place to control that fixture.

[I'm *NOT* degrading (what do the KIDS call it? 'DISSING') your reply - I'm just offering an alternative.]

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

No offense taken.

Just saying that in my case the compressed garbage (possibly literally) that my home had for an electrical box split and shattered when I looked at it, let alone tried to put a screw into it and I'm seriously dreading the day the caulk lets go and I have to find a better way of securing it.

-Bill-

[Dan Lawrence]

Sounds like you and your friendly local electrician should be getting together.

Only thing worse is Federal Pacific Stab-Loc (TM) breakers.  The electrician's tool for seating them is a rubber mallet.   

Been there, done that.

[dave w]

Yeah, but once they have been "seated" you probably don't have to worry about X10 signal loss across the breaker's connection to the distribution bus. Yup we had a home in michigan where 120V, 60 Hz 15 amps worked fine but X10 100 KHz bursts would not couple across. That took me about a year to finally figure out.

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Sounds like you and your friendly local electrician should be getting together.

Actually, the last place I re-wired for my landlord, all the inspector could complain about was that it was actually ABOVE CODE because they hadn't adopted the latest version of NEC yet!  The only reason I'm not certified is that I haven't had the patience to work 10,000 or so hours under someone who is certified so that the state will ALLOW me to take the test.

I've just been to lazy to get off my behind, tear everything apart and install a quality retro-fit box.