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[locorider21]

I installed 3 decorator dimmer switche on day one and programmed them into Active Home Pro. THey all worked fine by remote and direct access. Day two came i insttalled another, but it would only turn on from the remote, not off. Went in to hardware configuration and selected specific and house code A, and it worked fine. Day three today, i installed another switch and not it will only turn off from remote control, not on, however it does everything fine directly from the remote. its house code A14 and all my house codes are A, so why wont it turn on from the remote or computer?

[Brian H]

Standard incandescent type bulbs?
Sounds like you may have a powerline signal level problem or a noise problem.
Any electronics on the circuits giving problems? Like computers TVs etc.?
If you have House Code A set to be transceiver. As a test only. Try moving the CM15A Interface to a different circuit closer to the ones that will only go on or off. Then try the remote and see if the switches now work differently.

[locorider21]

yes, standard incadescent bulbs, its a bathroom so no electronics, and the cm15a has been moved around...... i tried the dryer test in which iturned on my dryer to act as a coupler to see if it would work, and still nothing changed. So do i need a filter or coupler, and where do they install and will one work for my entire house? Thanks!

[Brian H]

A whole house filter will filter out signals from other homes or the street wiring.
Try unplugging devices one at a time until things get better. That device maybe a noise source or a signal sucker. This maybe enough to find the problem first.

Also if you can find someone with an X10 Signal meter you maybe able to see if you have noise or a poor signal area.
I know that Automated Outlet. Use to have loaner ELK ESM-1 testers. You basically pay for it with postage and the cost - shipping is refunded on return.
http://www.automatedoutlet.com/home.php

[Puck]

its a bathroom so no electronics,

Most likely your bathroom is not it's own electrical circuit. There could be more outlets / lights in another room for the same breaker.
Maybe check what other circuits are affected when you turn the bathroom's breaker off.

This is MAPPING as TakeTheActive refers to in his posts.

(In case your not familiar with...) Here is a pic of an electrical tester available at any home building store for under $10... (an X-10 MUST HAVE for MAPPING) 

[locorider21]

Hey, thanks for the help.... the problem is gettin really really bad. In which i have to be within like 10 feet of the cma15 to even get a light to turn on by remote control... I have homelink in my car and the car is parked no further than 30ft from the cma15 and no signal will be sent either. starting to wonder if i should return everything and just face that it wont work? PLEASE PLEASE HELP. DIRECT LINK TO A TESTER OR FILTER OR SOMETHING . i was looking at the pzz01

[Brian H]

Range of RF Remote and can't control some distant X10 modules is two different problems.

If you can control a distant module with the Remote at 15' from the CM15A you have an RF range problem to the CM15A. What remote are you using? Some have very short range to a CM15A; that some have reported as having poor reception.

If the CM15A can't control a distant module with a remote or commands from AHP. You have a powerline signal problem.
In that case you need powerline signal tests.

Sounds like you may have both types of problems. Needing different troubleshooting tests.

[locorider21]

Ok, i moved the cma15 around the house and found in outlet in which the remote can control all around the house....... now its just, some lights only turn on and not off by remote, and others turn off but not on by remote, nor by AHP for both situations. So i figure thats a noise problem. Would the pzz01 help this? Also, one light that will turn on and off, seems to hesitate when it turns on. like it flickers then turns on, so i figure the line noise is kinda confusing the switch but enough signal gets through to turn it on.

[Dan Lawrence]

The PZZ01 Blocking Coupling Filter bridges the 220 VAC circuit and couples X10 signals from one phase of the 220V line to the other. It also prevents X10 signals from entering or leaving your house.

For extremely large houses, you may need to install a XPCR Coupler/Repeater to insure enough X10 signal amplitude for reliable operation.

[locorider21]

Hey Dan, so this should help with my problems right? My house is no larger than 2400 sqft.

[locorider21]

Ok, question for you guys, is there one UNIT that I can connect to my circuit breaker that will work to eliminate ALL noise in my house. From what ive been reading, i have to actually find the sourceof the noise...... and buy one filter for each source, but is there something that cancels out all noise in house? Is that the PZZ01 and has anyone ever installed it?

[Brian H]

No there is no one unit to do a whole houses X10 noise and X10 signal sucker problems.
If a device is generating X10 frequency noise the filter has to stop it from getting to the powerline. If it is a sucker [absorbes X10 signals] it has to prevent the X10 powerline signals from getting to the device.
I believe the PZZ01 prevents X10 signals from the street or neighbors home from getting to the house and does not fix noise or absorption inside the home.