Lights controllable from TM751, but not from AM466

[briand1023]

I have lights in my kitchen, when plugged into a AM466 they are not controllable - don't even hear that "Click" from the unit, either via Palmpad Remote or AHP Software.  When I change out the AM466 for a TM751 I can turn them on and off without problems from the Palmpad Remote and from AHP software.  Any idea why I might be experiencing this problem, or troubleshooting steps?  I have read through the forums at length but did not find an answer to help me.

Thanks in Advance.
Brian

[KDR]

Brian...

The TM751's plug works on what ever House code you set it to and Unit number 1 (unit number not adjustable) Be sure you have the AM466 set to the same House code as the TM751 and unit code 1 as a test. If both are set the same and the TM751 works and the AM466 doesn't then I would suspect a bad AM466.

[Puck]

Or your signal could be getting lost from AHP's CM15A to the AM466.

If after ensuring the house / unit code is correct, as KDR suggested, try this:

• First, make sure the AHP is set to Transceive that housecode
• Second, try the AM466 in different location(s) to see if works

If you do get it to work in another outlet, do a search for line noise and signal suckers... there's lot of info here for troubleshooting the problem.

[Brian H]

The TM751 has NO powerline receiver in it. It will only respond to the unit code 1 and house code set on the code wheel sent by an RF device like a remote.
So it looks like maybe a powerline signal problem as the TM751 will activate by RF from the remote and the CM15A sending an RF signal; while the powerline signal needed for the AM466 is not getting there. Is the CM15A set to tranceive the house code in use? If not it will not tranceive the RF from the remote to the powerline for the AM466.
In AHP:
Tools
Hardware Configuration
Tranceived House Codes

[TakeTheActive]

The TM751 has NO powerline receiver in it. It will only respond to the unit code 1 and house code set on the code wheel sent by an RF device like a remote.  So it looks like maybe a powerline signal problem as the TM751 will activate by RF from the remote and the CM15A sending an RF signal; while the (PLC) powerline signal needed for the AM466 is not getting there...

Easy enough to verify - plug the AM466 into the original location with the kitchen lights and plug the TM751 into another outlet ON THE SAME CIRCUIT. Now, they *BOTH* should click in unison.

[KDR]

Your right Brian the TM751 won't receive PLC signals only RF. As Puck indicated you are most likely looking at a noise problem or problem getting the signal to the AM466. It may be that your AM466 is on the other phase and not getting the signal.

[briand1023]

Thanks for all the tips - I had already verified the basic items(both on housecode A1) I am going to check the breaker box and see if the kitchen breakers are on a different phase than where the CM15A is plugged into.  I will then plug the CM15A and the AM466 into the same popwer strip to see if it is controllable from there to verify the unit still works.  How often do these units fail, is there a life expectancy?

Thanks
Brian

[briand1023]

Seems to be a phase issue, the AM466 worked right next to controller.  Is there any solutution for a phase issue other than installing breeaker in panel?  My panel is full.  I may have to use the original "clock controller" I own and place that in the other phase to get those lights to come on.  Thoughts,suggestions welcome!

Brian

[Brian H]

Try testing with the original clock controller on the other phase or even temporarily try the clock controller in the same outlet as the CM15A was in. If the samething happens it could indicate a signal loss problem. It can also be a signal sucker or noise maker. Try selectively unplugging things like TVs computers or anything with a switching type wall wart.

[KDR]

If you have an electric drier you can use a Signalinc plug-in coupler. Model 4816B2 from SmartHome. You just pull your drier plug, plug the coupler in then plug your drier plug into it.

[Dan Lawrence]

If you have an electric stove, a 0.1 uF 250 VAC Capacitor can be wired across the wires that feed the stove. Usually the stove/line connection is in a wiring box on the floor behind the stove. Turn off the power to the stove, pull it out from the wall and take the cover off the box. Connect the capacitor across the two wires. Make sure no wires are touching the box and close it up.

Turn the power back on and your phases are coupled for X10 signals.