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[Oldtimer]

Dave or Art,

So lets say I go the relay/contactor route (everytime I see how much the module melted I think this might be wise)...  What kind of specs would you suggest for the relay?  I agree with 120 VAC - I don't want to have to put a power supply in as well.  I assume I then "break" the live wire with the relay and wire the neutral of the diswasher directly to the wall, is this corret?

Thanks,

Paul

Dave or Art will give you the relay specs.  I wanted to add my two cents worth about using a metal not plastic project box to mount the realay.  In fact I would reccomend a rounded edge 2x4 metal electrical box with a matching blank metal cover plate.  You'll have to cut out the opening for the relay but it's worth the effort in safety.

[ArtClark]

Just for the "Safety" of it, I would recomend a 20 amp relay.  Just run the coil to a standard Plug (No polarity required).  As Oldtimer states, putting the relay in a metal box is a good idea, but if the relay is small enough to fit inside, no cutting of the box would be required.  Just use insulated crimp-on connectors.  (I like solder and heat-shrink, but insulated crimp-ons would be OK.)  If the relay only has one contact, connect as you stated.  Run the neutral through and break the hot.  If the relay has two contacts, feel free to break both lines.  Only the Ground MUST be directly connected.

Little Note:  Verify the size of the Fuse/Circuit Breaker powering the dishwasher and make sure the Relay can handle at least that many Amps.  20 Amp relays are common and most dishwashers run on 15 Amp service in older homes, but newer homes will have 20 Amp service.  If there is a true short in the dishwasher, and the relay turns on the power to this true short, the relay will probably arc weld itself on anyway, but it will safely conduct the current long enough for the breaker to trip.  Then it will need to be replaced, but seeing that the dishwasher had to be shorted for this to happen, replacing the relay is a minor concern for after replacing the dishwasher....  (With Home electrical, I always try to think of worst case.  If it happens when no-one is home, you want it to handle the problem, no matter what)

If I can be of any further help, just let me know.  Also, if I have missed anything that anyone else considers even slightly noteworthy, please comment here ASAP.  Better to get all the possible input beforehand.  (I'm sure there are specific codes that should be observed, but without getting the exact location, and then reading/researching, I am not qualified to comment on those.  I assume the metal box should be mounted, Must be Grounded, have correct cable clamps, etc.)

Good Luck

Art.

[Tcat]

I have (new) danby portable washer and countertop dishwasher. <stainless steel interiors>.

Unlike the very quiet washer, the dishwasher sounds like an unlimited hydroplane boat

With the 6 A draw (it is heating water too), I put it on a standard 3 prong appliance module. X10 > surge suppressor > dishwasher.

I have a macro I manually trigger when I want to wash dishes in the middle of the night. (delay to early am).
With only 40 A of service <live P/T in Mexico>, it really helps manage peak power usage, and I don't have to heart the countertop  "thunderboat".

Danby uses old-fashioned 'clock' motors to run their stuff...
What a great use for such an odd receiving module....

[dave w]

Paul

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RLY-482/500/120_VAC,_40_AMP_RELAY_.html
or
pararallel both N.O. contacts on this relay

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RLY-453/500/120_VAC_RELAY,_DPDT_12_AMPS_.html

[Oldtimer]

pararallel both N.O. contacts on this relay

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RLY-453/500/120_VAC_RELAY,_DPDT_12_AMPS_.html

Theoretically this should work but as a practical matter it may not since the two contacts may not actually break/make at exactly the same instant.

[dave w]

That shouldn't be a problem since in the thread, Paul states he is not making or breaking during periods of high current. If Paul is turning OFF during the dry cycle, then yes, he should go with the higher capacity relay, OR try and find a small contactor instead.

[roger1818]

Instead of using a 120V relay with an appliance module, another option all together would be to use an ACT RF124 - 20A In-Line Relay Fixture Module.  I trust ACT to be able to handle the maximum load.  It has isolated contacts, so one blue wire will have to be connected to hot (along with the black wire) and the other will be connected to the load.

You can get it from Automated Outlet.