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[idbl_fanatic]

ok, this is the 1st time I have ever tried to do this sort of thing, I have an IR543, 3 AM486 (2 Pin Appliance Module's) but I can only get the Appliance Module to work, when the IR543 is plugged into a plug on the same wall as the lamp module, when I 1st got these, I attempted to plug the IR543 in, in the kitchen, and try it out, and it wouldn't work, so then I tried plugging it in behind my entertainment system (across the room from the lamp module) and it wouldn't work.

I have ordered 3 Socket Rocket Mini Lamp Module LM15A, and a Inline Appliance Module (XPFM) but I am unsure that these are going to work now, and I am hoping that this wasn't all a waste of money. Please help!!

[Charles Sullivan]

ok, this is the 1st time I have ever tried to do this sort of thing, I have an IR543, 3 AM486 (2 Pin Appliance Module's) but I can only get the Appliance Module to work, when the IR543 is plugged into a plug on the same wall as the lamp module, when I 1st got these, I attempted to plug the IR543 in, in the kitchen, and try it out, and it wouldn't work, so then I tried plugging it in behind my entertainment system (across the room from the lamp module) and it wouldn't work.

I have ordered 3 Socket Rocket Mini Lamp Module LM15A, and a Inline Appliance Module (XPFM) but I am unsure that these are going to work now, and I am hoping that this wasn't all a waste of money. Please help!!

The most likely problem is that the IR543 and AM486 are on different phases of your AC power, in which case you would need a phase coupler.  The simplest to install is one from Smarthome which plugs into an electric clothes dryer (230V) receptacle.   Often turning on a 230V appliance like a clothes dryer or electric stove will create a sufficient signal path between the two phases, and this is one way to test for this problem.

Regarding your entertainment system, most modern electronic appliances have switch-mode power supplies with heavy capacitive filtering across the AC line.  These can greatly attenuate the X10 signal.  In this case you'd need to get an X10 Noise Filter to plug in between your entertainment system and the AC outlet.  You can test for this by unplugging your entertainment system from the wall (merely turning off is not sufficient).

[idbl_fanatic]

is this it??



or this??

[Brian H]

Could be either one. The socket and pins are made to fit a dryer outlet. Some like my older home have a three pin and some have a four pin. Pick the one that matches the outlet in question.

[idbl_fanatic]

Unfortunatly (SP?) I checked last night, and our house isn't wired for a 220V dryer (we have gas) now what?

[idbl_fanatic]

Ok, new problem just started happening..........................now for some reason when I turn the lamp module on or off (only have 1 connected right now) it will do it 2 times, for instance, if it is off, and I turn it on, I push on, on the remote, or on the IR543 the light will turn on, and then off, if the light is already on, if I push off, it either on the remote or the IR543 it will turn off, then back on.

I unplugged the module from the wall and plugged it back in, and it worked one time, then started doing the same thing again.

[Charles Sullivan]

Ok, new problem just started happening..........................now for some reason when I turn the lamp module on or off (only have 1 connected right now) it will do it 2 times, for instance, if it is off, and I turn it on, I push on, on the remote, or on the IR543 the light will turn on, and then off, if the light is already on, if I push off, it either on the remote or the IR543 it will turn off, then back on.

I unplugged the module from the wall and plugged it back in, and it worked one time, then started doing the same thing again.

What model of lamp module is this?  Are you using an incandescent bulb or a CFL in the fixture connected to it?  Do you have a CM15A or other X10 controller in your house?

[idbl_fanatic]

the lamp module is a AM486, and the only controller is the IR543, it is a CFL bulb

[Charles Sullivan]

the lamp module is a AM486, and the only controller is the IR543, it is a CFL bulb

The AM486 is an appliance module, not a lamp module (even though you have a lamp connected to it).

There have been some peculiar results reported for CFLs in plug-in modules, primarily because these modules have a feature called "local sensing".  If you switch on the device connected to the module, the module will sense the current inrush and turn itself on.

However this is the first I've heard of your particular problem.  Try exchanging the CFL for an incandescent bulb and test to see if the problem goes away.

BTW, what's the date code sticker on this particular AM486?  (It'll look something like "07A03".)  X-10 has been making unannounced (and often troublesome) design changes in their lamp modules and I'm wondering what they might have done with appliance modules.

[idbl_fanatic]

I will check with a regulay bulb when I get home, and also check the code as well.

[idbl_fanatic]

ok, so 1st off I changed the house code to C, since I found that A is not recommended, and I swapped out for a new module, and a regular bulb, everything seems to be working fine now, other than I know that I will need a coupler, and I don't have a 220 outlet  so I guess I will have to install one in the breaker box.

And the code on the modules are 06K46