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[RudderPedals]

I received my e-bayed x10 products today and found I had ordered the wrong things.  Here is what I'm trying to do:

I want to control a set of SR227's using a decor rocker style controller.  What will I need to buy?  Most of the lights I need to control are fluorescent, so I only want an on/off switch without dimming control. 

The Icon On/Off switch caught my eye, but I came across this in the manual:  Using an X10 Controller, send the X10 Primary Address you want to set up three times. You have about 4 minutes to perform this step before Icon On/Off Switch’s Linking Mode times out automatically.   Does this mean I need to buy an x10 controller to program in a code, say A-1 for my SR227's to be controlled by it?

As a newbie to x10, I feel I'm missing something important and am worried I'm going to spend a fortune only to find I'm not able to do what I was planning all along.  The more I read, the more I scratch my head.  Any input is appreciated!

[Puck]

The Icon On/Off switch caught my eye, but I came across this in the manual:  Using an X10 Controller, send the X10 Primary Address you want to set up three times. You have about 4 minutes to perform this step before Icon On/Off Switch’s Linking Mode times out automatically.   Does this mean I need to buy an x10 controller to program in a code, say A-1 for my SR227's to be controlled by it?

You will need some way to program the ICON Switches. The cheapest method would be to pick up a MC460 Mini-Controller.

[Brian H]

Yes you will need some powerline controller to send the X10 primary Address to the Icon Switch. Since you are not using the more expensive Insteon Version of the switch you will not have to worry about setting an X10 Scene Address; if desired; not needed for what you are trying to do. If you wanted Scenes you would then need a controller capable of sending House Codes Only to unlock the Scenes setting mode. Like O16 N16 M16 P16 M16 [Clear Code]. The Mini-Controller should work fine for what you need. If you had lots of devices to program then the Smarthome ControLinc Maxi would be best as it has preset buttons to send all the needed sequences.

Also the Icon switch needs a Neutral Power Wire in the switch box to work.

X10Pro also makes in wall X10 Transmitter Switches if you want to look at their items:  http://www.x10pro.com/pro/catalog/inwall.transmitters.html

[Walt2]

I used the Leviton HCC10-1SW (-1TW).  Its an X10 controller which mounts  in a single gang wall switch box, and has the familiar Decora style paddle rocker.  Under the rocker are the expected house and unit code selectors so no manual controller is needed to program.  They even include the tiny screwdriver needed to turn the house and unit code selectors.

There is also the Leviton HCC1D-1LW (-1TW) which adds a mini paddle rocker to send out brighten/dim commands too.  I mention this one because it is easier to find, and you don't need to use the dim rocker if the module you are controlling can't dim.

[RudderPedals]

Thank you for your replies!  I'll order a Leviton #HCC10-1TW white Decora DHC controller (transmitter).  Found one for $35.  I'll return here on my next head scratchin' project.  :-)

[Boiler]

The Icon On/Off switch caught my eye, but I came across this in the manual:  Using an X10 Controller, send the X10 Primary Address you want to set up three times. You have about 4 minutes to perform this step before Icon On/Off Switch’s Linking Mode times out automatically.   Does this mean I need to buy an x10 controller to program in a code, say A-1 for my SR227's to be controlled by it?

This may be a bit late but...

The ICON switches are nice, but for $5 additional you can get the "full featured" Insteon V2 which supports X10 Scenes as well as local X10 ramp rate control.

When the ICON's came out they were $19 and I snapped up a number of them (they've perfomed great).  At $39 I would opt for the Insteon V2 instead.

Beware that both of these switches are X10-2way.  They WILL absorb more of your X10 signal than a standard reciever.  Than being said, I have ~25 Insteon devices in the house now and have managed to keep the signal levels up with an active repeater.

As far as programming is concerned:

• You can configure Active Home Pro to send out the 3 on commands using a macro (use delays between the commands).  You didn't mention whether you had AHP.
• You can also use a RF remote and a transceiver to output the commands to the powerline.
• I have a ControlLinc Maxi that I love (Smarthome $25).  It's similar to BrianH's MC460 but customized for Smarthome products with a lot of capabilities.  Plug it in on the same circuit at the device you're programming and the programming is worry free.  I use it for Smarthome, leviton, and X10 socketrockets.
  

Hope this helps (and that I'm not too late),
Boiler

[RudderPedals]

Thanks again for all your replies.  The HCC10-1TW I ordered controls my SR227s like a dream. 

-edit-  .... except for one, it's on the basement circuit for some reason.  Will and phase coupler or a repeater (such as the SignaLinc Plug-in Phase Coupler Repeater X10 4826A) be the solve all solution?

[Puck]

Thanks again for all your replies.  The HCC10-1TW I ordered controls my SR227s like a dream. 

-edit-  .... except for one, it's on the basement circuit for some reason.  Will and phase coupler or a repeater (such as the SignaLinc Plug-in Phase Coupler Repeater X10 4826A) be the solve all solution?

Possibly. when you cross phases & circuits (breakers) you can run into other signal integrity issues due to signal suckers and noise generators.

If you know for sure that it is on the other electrical phase, a quick test would be to turn on your electric oven or electric dryer and try controlling it. If it works, then a phase coupler should be all you need. If it doesn't then there are probably other signal integrity issues.

[RudderPedals]

I tried turning the dryer on and the SR227 worked!  Got my SignaLinc Plug-in Phase Coupler today, problem solved.  Thanks for the input!

[bchenoweth]

Thank you very much for the Dryer test idea!  I was on the wall on whether I should buy the plug in coupler/amplifier that goes into the dryer outlet.  I could not control some of my lights from my upstairs computer even though they were working yesterday when I first installed them.  Today I tried using them and nothing I tried worked.  Then I saw this post went and turned my dryer on and tried again and everything works perfectly. I then found out yesterday when I installed it and was working my girlfriend had been doing laundry so the dryer was running when I tested it.

Thanks again great post

Bryan

Thanks again for all your replies.  The HCC10-1TW I ordered controls my SR227s like a dream. 

-edit-  .... except for one, it's on the basement circuit for some reason.  Will and phase coupler or a repeater (such as the SignaLinc Plug-in Phase Coupler Repeater X10 4826A) be the solve all solution?

Possibly. when you cross phases & circuits (breakers) you can run into other signal integrity issues due to signal suckers and noise generators.

If you know for sure that it is on the other electrical phase, a quick test would be to turn on your electric oven or electric dryer and try controlling it. If it works, then a phase coupler should be all you need. If it doesn't then there are probably other signal integrity issues.