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[Steve933]

First post--sorry if this is the wrong place for this question.  I've been wrestling with problems at one switch location for months. 

I have two side-by-side XPS3 wall switches set to the same code (A14).  They share a neutral wire so I assume that means they're on the same circuit (I'm no electrician).  By the way, these switches each control (5) 75w incandescent outdoor soffit lights.  375 watts total is well within the limits of the XPS3 which I believe is rated at a max of at least 500w (maybe 600).

I have two transmitters:  IBM HD11a (same as CM11a) and HD501 (same as RR501).  If I use my remote, the HD501 controls these switches perfectly.  The HD11a reliably turns them off, but never turns them on.

My HD501 is plugged into my HD11a which is plugged an XTB.  I have a CR234 coupler/repeater.  No matter where I plug the transmitters and XTB in, I get the same results.

Here's the strange part... If I connect the HD11a to my PC (via the serial port) and use my Home Director software, I can use my mouse to turn the switches on and off manually and it works flawlessly through the same HD11a interface.  There is obviously something different about the signal coming out of the HD11A when I use the mouse via the Home Director software than when the HD11A sends the signal from its internal memory--everything else is exactly the same.

Since the HD501 also works reliably, this made me suspect a problem with HD11a.  But, it controls all of my other X10 switches perfectly.  I thought that it might have a problem with the A14 address for some reason so I tried the same tests using A14 and A9 but got the same results--it works through the PC software, but not from the HD11a's memory.

Between replacing the switches twice, the CR234, and the XTB, I've spent over $250 trying to solve this problem.  What should I try next?  Should I replace the HD11a with a new CM15a now?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Steve

[Dan Lawrence]

I presume you are in the US or Canada.

It sounds like your HD11 (the IBM version of the CM11A) is either dying or your PC is running WindowsXP, which is known for COM port problems with certain motherboards.

If you are US/Canada based, the Active Home Professional (AHP) and the CM15A are your best bet.   Check out http://www.x10.com/activehomepro/activehome-pro.html  for more info on the product.

[Steve933]

Yes, I'm in the US.

I am running Windows XP, but haven't seemed to have any problems with the COM port.  As I said in the original post, I can click on the screen on-off button (Home Director) and it successfully sends the signal through the COM port to the HD11a and the lights work fine.  It's after I disconnect from the PC and rely only on the HD11a's memory that the "on" command doesn't work.

It's only $50 so I took your suggestion and ordered the CM15A and AHP software.  We'll see if that does the trick.  If not, I'm stumped.

Thanks for your help.

Steve

[steven r]

I think you'll like the CM15A with the AHP software! It a lot more powerful than the older interface and software.

I don't think this is your problem but for your information when you have "two side-by-side XPS3 wall switches" you need to down rate them. I'm not sure how much but I think it's about 100 watts each you need subtract. e.g. If the XPS3 is rated for 500W by itself then 2 side by side would be rated 400W each.

[Dan Lawrence]

Good luck!!   You should be able to import all your former .x10 files into Active Home Pro, assuming Home Director uses the .x10 format. If not, if HD has a print feature, print your module types and addresses. You can use that to set up AHP.

[HA Dave]

It's only $50 so I took your suggestion and ordered the CM15A and AHP software. 

I had the CM11a... and I wasn't impressed. The CM15A is pretty darn awesome! You can do so much more with the CM15A. Hope it also solves your problem... if not come back and post.