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[regchamp]

I have an IR543 and a Leviton switch http://www.smarthome.com/2201wi.html The controller will "turn all lights on" and "turn all lights off" without a problem. However, the "dim" and "bright" buttons do nothing. Any clue why? The manual dimmer on the switch works, and "all lights on, and "all lights off" fade perfect.

[Charles Sullivan]

I have an IR543 and a Leviton switch http://www.smarthome.com/2201wi.html The controller will "turn all lights on" and "turn all lights off" without a problem. However, the "dim" and "bright" buttons do nothing. Any clue why? The manual dimmer on the switch works, and "all lights on, and "all lights off" fade perfect.

An All_Lights_On signal does not address the specific module.   Sending an On signal to the specific housecode/unit  of the switch will address it and then the Dim/Bright ought to work after that.  (An All_Off signal will unaddress the switch.)

[regchamp]

I am using an IR remote to control this setup - I have been using the "all lights off" for watching a DVD (turns on my amplifier, projector, turns lights off, etc.)  So you are saying if I use "all lights off" it resets the code and I have to re-hit the button in order to dim? (Since it "unaddresses" the switch)

[Charles Sullivan]

I am using an IR remote to control this setup - I have been using the "all lights off" for watching a DVD (turns on my amplifier, projector, turns lights off, etc.)  So you are saying if I use "all lights off" it resets the code and I have to re-hit the button in order to dim? (Since it "unaddresses" the switch)

Well now I'm totally confused.  How does AllOff turn On your amplifier and projector with a Smarthome dimmer switch?

[Brian H]

I would like to know how a dimmer switch can safely control an amplifier?

[HA Dave]

I am using an IR remote to control this setup - I have been using the "all lights off" for watching a DVD (turns on my amplifier, projector, turns lights off, etc.)  So you are saying if I use "all lights off" it resets the code and I have to re-hit the button in order to dim? (Since it "unaddresses" the switch)

I would like to know how a dimmer switch can safely control an amplifier?

I am just guessing here... but it seems as if more and more users are wanting to control their entire Home Theater set-ups using a High-end IR remote. My guess is that is what regchamp is doing too. I also use a Harmony remote to control my Home Theater.

These remotes are pretty awesome... they are programed via a Web Base Interface (it's done on-line) then downloaded to the remote. Even my older unit easily handles macros... which allows it to do (X10) lights, amplifier, projector... and more. The IR543 is perfect for receiving the X10 IR signals! X10's POWERMID is great for getting the IR to enclosed of remotely located audio/video equipment too. I've also intergraded AHP into my set-up.... which makes it even smarter. Adding the BVC Voice Control has made me world famous (in my neighborhood).

Home Theaters are pretty much the "thing" to have now... and for good reason. And the technology used in these set-ups is changing as fast as the weather [changes] in the mid-west.

Of course... the reason I am GUESSING at all this... is to explain to that it is difficult or impossible give helpful advice to very general postings.

[Charles Sullivan]

Thanks for the explanation Dave_x10_L.   If your guess is correct and regchamp's IR remote is executing macros, it's going to be difficult to troubleshoot his problem without something like AHP's Activity Monitor to display exactly what X10 commands are being sent on the power line by the IR543.

[HA Dave]

Thanks for the explanation Dave_x10_L.   If your guess is correct and regchamp's IR remote is executing macros............

Actually.... my guess would be.... he selected all lights ON/OFF because he isn't familiar with X10 or the House/Unit codes (and he also didn't mention AHP). Where the soft-OFF... is fine for starting the movie (making it darker). Even a soft-ON is blinding following a movie. At least... that's what I found.. with my set-up.

One solution (again... if my guess is correct) would be to turn the lights (by H/U code) ON - by bright to 100% (before the movie)... then to DIM 100% (when starting the movie)... then bright 20% (at the end of the movie).

What I found.... is ANY overhead lighting is too much (even if very dim) when "bringing up the house lights" after a movie. I ended up adding indirect lighting following the movie. I also found that some light is required during the movie... because people will tend to leave their seats from time-to-time. I have some rope lights mounted under a counter. It's enough light that visitors can see to walk... yet not enough to distract from the screen.

This kind of theater-specific information is all over the Web Sites and forums dedicated to Home Theaters. But putting lighting scenes into practice... is part engineering.. and part art. It took me some trial and error, and lots of reading and searching.


Note: When I was a young-man.. I bought a home that had a bedroom with one metal light fixture with a large glass globe (and a 100 watt bulb) in the center of the room. The fixture had a pull-chain switch.. and the chain dangled down to a long string. I modernized the room by wiring in a toggle switch by the door. Much has changed with lighting over the years. As we transition into lower wattage lights (like, CFL's and LED)... I've found.. I have had to change my thinking about what proper lighting is.

One bright CFL in a room can be harsh to be near... and still leave dark areas. Running around the room(s) turning on and off several low wattage lamps to keep living areas from looking like caves is a hassle. X10 and HA is the perfect match for the "new" lighting.

[Charles Sullivan]

Dave_x10_L:
The new design LM465 and WS467 (and the LM14A) have the "resume" feature which can be employed.  (And they also don't dim to full visual darkness.)  So whatever scheme you use has to be tailored to the particular type of module.

[HA Dave]

Dave_x10_L:
The new design LM465 and WS467 (and the LM14A) have the "resume" feature which can be employed.  (And they also don't dim to full visual darkness.)  So whatever scheme you use has to be tailored to the particular type of module.

Your (of course) right! I have never used (or read enough about) the Leviton switches. I can only hope regchamp returns to his post to gleam some information from this thread. I don't normally play the "guessing game" with threads.... but decided to this one time... if only for my own entertainment.