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[JoelB]

I'm trying to use a 467 wall switch to control the 227 smart socket, into which I am plugging a low voltage light. The light to which the 467 is directly wired is a double 60w incandescent fixture. Since the 227 acts like an appliance module, I thought this should work. Am I going in the wrong direction?

Anyway, I installed a newly purchased WS467 and tried to control an older (probably 5 years) light module and similarly aged appliance module plugged into unswitched outlets on the same house circuit as the 467. Neither would switch on or off regardless of whether the load is a low voltage halogen (my intended device) or an incandescent work light. Thinking the newer 467 might not work well with the older modules, I installed one of the newly purchased smart sockets. The uncontrolled and controlled sockets both ahve power to them, but the controlled socket won't switch off. In all these tests, I tried several house/appliance code combinations. Any ideas what I should try next?

TIA

[dave w]

I'm trying to use a 467 wall switch to control the 227 smart socket, into which I am plugging a low voltage light. The light to which the 467 is directly wired is a double 60w incandescent fixture. Since the 227 acts like an appliance module, I thought this should work. Am I going in the wrong direction?


TIA

If you are using the WS467 to provide power to the SR227 Super Socket, Yes you are going in the wrong direction.

The WS467 is made for incandescent lights only. It relies on parasitic power drawn through the light bulb while in the OFF state, to power it's internal electronics. The SR227 will not pass that power to the WS467. Also you should not use the WS467 to control an wall outlet. Every thing will be fine if you have an incandescent light plugged into the SR227, but when the maid disconnects the light, and plugs in the vaccuum, the WS467 will likely go pop. If she plugs in a TV, the TV will likely go pop.

Generally, an X10 module would not be used to controll another down stream module (there are exceptions, but you would never use a module designed to control lights, i.e. WS467, or LM465, etc,  to control a down stream module designed to control appliances ).

[JoelB]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. The WS467 is directly connected to a two-bulb light fixture that contains two 60w incandescent bulbs. It is this fixture that the 467 turns off and on due to hard wiring. I am hoping to use the 467 to send the x10 signals to control three 227s. These 227s are in the same circuit as the 467, that is, they are turned off and on by the same breaker in my breaker panel. They are not being switched by the 467 through a direct wire connection. They are always powered. I was mentioning all of this to rule out the phasing issue as a reason for the lack of response.

[Brian H]

The WS467 has no X10 power line transmitter and can not control any X10 devices.

[JoelB]

That wasn't at all clear to me and explains everything. I used a wireless switch and was able to control the switch (light) and the outlet, but the switch only controlled the light. Is there a switch like the 467 that can control other x10 devices?

TIA

[Charles Sullivan]

That wasn't at all clear to me and explains everything. I used a wireless switch and was able to control the switch (light) and the outlet, but the switch only controlled the light. Is there a switch like the 467 that can control other x10 devices?

TIA

Check out the X10Pro XPT1  http://x10pro.com/pro/electrical.appl.html

Note that this is only an X10 transmitter.  You will still need the WS467 receiver to control the lights.
This (and any other X10 transmitter) requires that you have hot and neutral wires in the switch box.

[Brian H]

Do you know if you have a Neutral wire in the switch box?
There maybe a switch that has a local load and sends an X10 line signal when toggled or bright/dimmed.
Though it may not handle X10 Bright Dims correctly.

[JoelB]

Thanks. I'll have to check to see if I have a neutral wire in the switch box. My objective is to have the one wall switch control multiple lights, one of which (ceiling fixture) is connected to the old switch, the rest are plugged into outlets around ther perimeter of the room. So perhaps if I do have a neutral wire in the switch box, I can do this as follows:

1. Bypass the switch so that the ceiling light is unswitched, i.e. always on.

2. Install an XPDF module in the recessed ceiling box so that the ceiling light can be controlled by an X10 controller.

3. Install SR227 controlled outlets around the room perimeter (already done).

4. Install an XPT1 in the switch box to control all lights.

If I don't have a neutral wire in the switch box, this can't be done. Then I'll just stick with the 467 to control the ceiling light and use a stick-on switch to control the perimeter lights. This is less desirable, but works, I suppose. Am I assessing the situation correctly?

TIA

[dave w]

Yes if you do NOT have a neutral you will need a Slim Line Switch and tranceiver to control the lights.
If you DO have a neutral in the wall switch box, you could use one of the Smarthome switches, several of which will directly control the connected fixture and send X10 codes which could control the SR227s.
http://www.smarthome.com/_/Dimmers_Wall_Switches_Keypads_Touchscreens/X10_Compatible/_/1QV/23X/nav.aspx
Sorry I did not unerstand your original question.

[JoelB]

Thanks. This is coming together nicely. I've never looked at SmartHome, only X10. Are they related? It seems to me an early X10 product was called SmartHome.

Can one use the ground as a neutral lead? If so, I know I'm good to go as I have a solid ground - the house is wired with BX and the metal shield is grounded.

[Charles Sullivan]

Thanks. This is coming together nicely. I've never looked at SmartHome, only X10. Are they related? It seems to me an early X10 product was called SmartHome.

Can one use the ground as a neutral lead? If so, I know I'm good to go as I have a solid ground - the house is wired with BX and the metal shield is grounded.

You definitely DO NOT want to use the ground as a neutral lead.

[steven r]

...Can one use the ground as a neutral lead?...

You definitely DO NOT want to use the ground as a neutral lead.

As Charles indicated...
Never ever consider using the ground as a neutral lead.

You can't say that enough!

[JoelB]

Like I said, I'd NEVER use the ground as a neutral lead! 

Thanks.