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[Brandt]

Can anyone share the pros and cons as well as usage for the three devices?

[Knightrider]

Lamp modules can be plugged into the wall and will dim.

Socket rockets do not require wiring, and will not dim (good for CFLs (non approved use)).

Wall switches come in a couple of flavors.  The WS467 requires only two wires, can be dimmed and cannot be used for CFLs.  X10 makes an appliance type wall switch which does not dim (good for CFLs (approved use)),  and requires a neutral feed at the installation point.  Also, X10's appliance type wall switch only comes in decora style.

[Brandt]

I meant like why use one over the other?

[Dan Lawrence]

It depends on what you want to and what you want to buy.

Lamp Modules are plug-in, you plug the module into an outlet, give it an address (like A1) and plug a lamp into the module.  Send the module a X10 signal (A1 ON), the lamp turns on.

Appliance Modules work the same way.

Socket Rockets screw into a socket and the bulb (or CFL) is screwed into it.  You set it by sending it a signal 3 times, such as F1.  That gives it the X10 address it uses.  Socket Rockets can be programmed at one location and moved to another.

[dave w]

I meant like why use one over the other?

It is a difficult question to answer because it like asking "which do you like: a sedan, or a pick-up, or a semi tractor?"  They are all designed for different applications.
The wall switch is designed to control and dim overhead fixtures or incandescent lights controlled by a standard wall switch. It replaces the standard switch. This ability to replace a standard two wire wall toggle switch also presents it's short falls. There is an abundance of information on two wire switch quirks on this forum. There are three wire wall switches which eliminate most of the two wire wall switch foibles but you need a neutral wire in your wall switch box. Many homes do not have this.

The Lamp Module is probably the most versatile. It plugs into an outlet and any incandescent light 300 Watts or less can be controlled and dimmed, by plugging the light into the Lamp Module.

The Socket Rocket is the most compact, provides only ON-OFF control, no dimming. Screws into a light socket and the incandescent bulb screws in to the Socket Rocket. In most cases a Socket Rocket will play nice with a CFL bulb. The Lamp Module and the two wire wall switch will not.
Now go buy something and start playing.

[Brandt]

thanks dave that is the kind of answer i was looking for.

at this point, I own all three..except I havent gotten around to installing the wall switches yet. They are used PCS switches I bought off a co-worker.

anyway

I do have some overhead lights that I would only be able to control with switches...havent looked to see if they are 2 or 3 wire.

I've had lamp modules for a while  I understand that they are for lamps that plug into the wall.

I'm new to socket rockets, I just purchased 3 a while ago and have them powering some christmas lights outside. I didn't realize they are not dimmable, but I can live with that.



Most of the bedrooms in this house have their light switches going to a receptacle which we plug our own lamps into. This is where I got a bit confused i guess. Do you just put a cover over your light switch and use a lamp module with it? or do you replace the switch with an x-10 switch? even though they warn against that because somebody may one day plug an appliance into that outlet? or?

I would really like for a functional light switch in the bedrooms. right now in my bedroom, i just leave the switch on, and i posted a stick a switch right above it. I don't really like the stick a switch because they don't react very fast.

Also I'd like to use motion sensors combined with lights in the rooms around the house, but there would have to be conditionals associated with them, for example if you detect movement only turn on if the occupant isn't sleeping!

[Brian H]

PCS has discontinued the X10 line of switches.
All their present offerings are UPB.

I did find some manuals for the PCS Smart Switch if you need them.
http://www.hometech.com/modules/pcs.html

Looks like the Smart Switch line of switches need a Neutral Power Wire in the switch box to work.

Not sure if PCS also had other model lines of X10 compatible switches as I did find a modification for their OSR-3 Slave Switch

[dave w]

They are used PCS switches I bought off a co-worker.

I do have some overhead lights that I would only be able to control with switches...havent looked to see if they are 2 or 3 wire.

Most of the bedrooms in this house have their light switches going to a receptacle which we plug our own lamps into. This is where I got a bit confused i guess. Do you just put a cover over your light switch and use a lamp module with it? or do you replace the switch with an x-10 switch? even though they warn against that because somebody may one day plug an appliance into that outlet? or?

I would really like for a functional light switch in the bedrooms. right now in my bedroom, i just leave the switch on, and i posted a stick a switch right above it. I don't really like the stick a switch because they don't react very fast.

Also I'd like to use motion sensors combined with lights in the rooms around the house, but there would have to be conditionals associated with them, for example if you detect movement only turn on if the occupant isn't sleeping!

PCS made quality stuff. I looks like Brian has determined the PCS switches require a neutral line in the wall box.

Using dimmable wall switches to control receptacles is risky. The risk is plugging something other than an incandescent light in the controlled outlet. Accidentally plugging in a Dyson vacuum cleaner will likely turn the wall switch to toast. Accidentally plugging in a flat screen TV will likely turn the TV to toast. I put a "Do not use this outlet for anything but lamps" label above the controlled outlet. We have few overnight visitors and no outside house cleaning, so it works for us. But we are taking a chance. I like you find the Slim Line switches slow so use them only when I have to and am willing to risk the "controlled outlet produces smoke" scenario. You just have to accept the risks if that is the road you want to go down. 

We use motion detectors with conditionals to turn on very dim path lighting when we get up at night. It works well, we just have to tell the system we are "going to sleep" which turns off all lighting in the house and enables the path lighting function. Sun rise disables it.
Good luck with the neutrals in the wall boxes.

[Mellowmark]

You may want to look into installing an xpt style controller in the switch location for the bedrooms.  It will take a little reworking of the switch leg to the receptacle but is well worth it. The switched receptacle can be made hot all the time then the switch location can be used for the xpt.  Their will be enough wire to make a hot and neutral at the switch. This will allow the switching of any x10 device up to a total of four.  Also the module for the room could be moved to any outlet if necessary.   

I used an xpt in a three way set up in my living room.  I wired the one location of the three-way straight thru and put a xpt with three plc addresses and one dimming buttons in its place now I can switch the original light and two other lamp modules from that single switch location.  This works great for scene control also.

[Brandt]

sorry Mellowmark, i'm no electrician, not sure I follow you...