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Author Topic: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control  (Read 5378 times)

sshuda

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220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« on: March 04, 2010, 02:09:33 PM »

I want to be able to control my 4.5KW electric water heater.  I cannot seem to find a device that can handle the load and be controlled via AHP.  Any suggestions?

Steve
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Brian H

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Re: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2010, 02:44:59 PM »

You can control this ELK Heavy Duty Relay Interface with an appliance module as I have seen no module with a 25 amp rating as a stand alone device.
http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-9200.htm

Not sure if you can find the older 9100 as it has been replaced by the 9200 and also has a repeater in it. Not 100% sure if the repeater part was one of the firestorm with CM15A ones.
http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/9100-instructions.pdf

Simplehomenet makes a Insteon one that can have an X10 address added to it, but needs a Neutral Power wire and in my opinion the connector is kind of small for the rated current.
http://www.simplehomenet.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9357345387
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 02:52:35 PM by Brian H »
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sshuda

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Re: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2010, 02:53:20 PM »

Brian,

Looks like a nice unit and should work with just a couple minor wiring changes as I do not have a 120V outlet near the WH.

Thanks,
Steve
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jadams77

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Re: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2010, 08:19:03 PM »

I have a couple of the 9100s that I use on my water heaters but still get phantom on and offs every now and then.  I might try the 9200's, but have the same issue as Steve, no 110V outlet nearby.  Can I use 1/2 of the waterheater's 220V for this?  Code issues?
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Brian H

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Re: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2010, 06:07:04 AM »

Is there a Neutral at the water heater for the 120 volt reference?
I am not an Electrician but there are some here. They may have added data like code requirements.
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bsmiley

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Re: 220V/25 Amp loads - how to control
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2010, 03:55:07 PM »

Hi there,

I recommend you use a device called a contactor. They are a remote relay that has a coil voltage that can be specified such as Single Phase 110VAC ( to be switched on and off by your "appliance module" as opposed to the lamp module, for example.) Coils are inductive and most 110 VAC contactors have minimal current to close the switch (usually much less than 5 Amps AC.). The "Contactor" is a switch that is designed to control "High Current" Source and Loads, like your 4.5 Kw hot water heater. Rounding off your 20 Amp AC load I would double it to 40 Amp rated at 220 VAC to be safe and sure / cool and non taxing. I'm analm about things like that. Most contactors are designed to be placed inside of some form of closed electrical box as they have exposed electrical connections. I looked up this one online:( http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CTR352P120S&Category_Code=c1-120v2p ) and have no affiliation with any company but think of my old friend Fred Wilson at L. A. DWP who showed me info on contactors. Your Box would have three Strain Relief clamps= 220/240 in, 220/240 out, and 3 conductor 110 VAC line cord to appliance module. Good luck and be safe!
bsmiley
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