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[ratchet]

Looking at my Anderson windows and the DS12A sensor mounting instructions, it would seem like I'm going to have alignment problems, especially since all the Anderson components are beveled.  Also, although I should have realized this one before hand, am I going to have to remove some of the trim around the french doors?  I'm actually quite handy but I guess I'm not really up for making numerous shims for the windows or ruining my trim.  Or am I missing something here?  Thank you!

[Jeff M]

Most of the moldings around my doors are beveled also.  I installed my DS12A sensors as close to the door as possible so it did not interfere with it opening and closing.  Then I put spacers between the door and magnet to position the magnet closer to the sensor.  I can't picture what your windows look like, but this may work for you also.

[ratchet]

Most of the moldings around my doors are beveled also.  I installed my DS12A sensors as close to the door as possible so it did not interfere with it opening and closing.  Then I put spacers between the door and magnet to position the magnet closer to the sensor.  I can't picture what your windows look like, but this may work for you also.

Not having the sensor or the magnet in my hand I'm not really sure what I'll be dealing with.  Does 100% of the magnet (the smaller component I presume) have to touch 100% of the sensor?  From looking at the  illustrations in the PDF wiki, it appears like they have the magnets on the "inside" part of the window and the thicker  sensor outside, which to me would make alignment more difficult.  Thanks for the response!

[HA Dave]

The magnet/switch parts never actually touch. As often as not close is plenty close enough. The beveled trim poses a normal concern. I picked up a small (it sells by the foot) piece of molding trim (in white vinyl) to cut my shims out of, at Home Depot. I used a coping saw and a utility knife (be careful) to get the right shape.

On the DS10A's I use (the older ones) the magnet/switch is removeable/replaceable. So if I felt compelled to... I could have replaced the standard reed switch and magnet with a recessed one.

Don't forget the motion sensors! If one widow, door, or part of the house poses a problem... you can still cover most areas with a motion sensor(s). Keep it simple... don't over think it. Alarms only alert people of a break in. They don't actually allow... or prevent them.

[ratchet]

The magnet/switch parts never actually touch. As often as not close is plenty close enough. The beveled trim poses a normal concern. I picked up a small (it sells by the foot) piece of molding trim (in white vinyl) to cut my shims out of, at Home Depot. I used a coping saw and a utility knife (be careful) to get the right shape.

On the DS10A's I use (the older ones) the magnet/switch is removeable/replaceable. So if I felt compelled to... I could have replaced the standard reed switch and magnet with a recessed one.

Don't forget the motion sensors! If one widow, door, or part of the house poses a problem... you can still cover most areas with a motion sensor(s). Keep it simple... don't over think it. Alarms only alert people of a break in. They don't actually allow... or prevent them.

Thank you for the reply!  Can the magnets be installed on the bottom of the window with mounting tape (would be on the side of the magnet as opposed to the back of it and the sensor flat on the sill?  I know the directions suggest as high as possible.  The crank windows will be another animal!

[Tuicemen]

The magnetic sensors really do have some play some of mine only line up about 40%
and still work.
Some sensors I have at the bottom of windows others at the tops.
the two sided tape is handy to help play with placement but once you find a working placement do screw them in.
I had a couple of false triggers where the tape let go!

[Brian H]

Are you sure your kit has DS12As.
Most of the recent deals have DS10As in them.

I have rounded doors and my fix for the DS12As. Was don't use the internal magnetic switch and supplied magnet.
There is a second zone built into the DS12A for an external switch. I used some long distance SecoLarm Long gap switches. Wired to the external zone input and mounted on the door and frame. The internal and external zones register as separate zones. So I just registered the external zones and didn't use the internal ones.