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[mike]

............... OR switch the RR501 to "Unit 9". ...........

HUH?

The RR501 will send a status when told to change the state of it's outlet which is addressed as Unit Code 1 or 9. If yours is set as A1, the Eagle sends an "A1 ON", the RR501 turns it's outlet on and puts "A1 ON" on the line.

I,m  being dense,  Never did know what the 1 or 9 sw on those things was for......  so are u saying that if set to 9 instead of 1 the above paragraph would read:

The RR501 will send a status when told to change the state of it's outlet which is addressed as Unit Code 1 or 9. If yours is set as A9, the Eagle sends an "A1 ON", the RR501 turns it's outlet on and puts "A9 ON" on the line?

why would it do that?  I thought the rr501 was an rf rcvr and it just rcvd rf and put it on the line.  period.  so if set to work with housecode A, I thought ANY Axx rcvd would simply be put on the line by it.  I only thought the 1 & 9 sw was to let it do double duty and be an appliance module on A1 or A9 in addition to rcving all Axx and putting it on the line as same Axx?

[Brian H]

The switch only selects the address of the internal appliance type relay.
If the RR501 is on House Code A. It will take any Unit Code command with a House Code A and send it back on the power line. If the RF command is on A9 and the switch is on 9. Then the internal relay will follow an on or off and it will also be passed back to the power line at the same address.
Like RF A9 On would turn on the internal relay and send an A9, AOn back on the power line.

[dave w]

I thought the rr501 was an rf rcvr and it just rcvd rf and put it on the line.  period.  so if set to work with housecode A, I thought ANY Axx rcvd would simply be put on the line by it.  I only thought the 1 & 9 sw was to let it do double duty and be an appliance module on A1 or A9 in addition to rcving all Axx and putting it on the line as same Axx?

I think Brian explained it. But what you state above is correct. Sorry if I confused you.

And I think I confused myself.

I have some very old RR501's from mid 80s and they would send a status any time they changed state (even when the manual button was pushed). So if set to HC "A"  and slide switch to UC "1" ,when sent A1 ON it would turn on and echo "A1 ON" to indicate status. With the XPCR in the mix I could produce a ping pong firestorm between the XPCR and RR501. Never had the problem after upgrading to the CR234 repeater and later heard X10 fixed the problem. It may be the newer RR501 give status only when they see a "Hail" request.

Anyway I thought the "fromjim" problem might be a firestorm problem, not directly related to the Eagle.

[Fromjim]

Well you guys are great, I have quite a few things to read and try.

Today I started by changing the EagleEye unit and I also changed the code to D-1, then I changed the 501 to code D and the Chime and Robodog to D-1.

The first thing I noticed was I no longer could get a singal from the EagleEye to the 501 at it's location, I had to change locations and move it about 50 feet closer.  I then could get signals to the 501 and signal the chime and Robodog, which are, chime in the house and Robodog in the garage 150 feet away.

I still have the line bridge connected and that is probably why I get four chimes from each motion detected, the Robodog just keeps barking for about 30 seconds, don't know if I can change the time for that.

I haven't had any false alarms that I noticed, there was a few trucks but not as many today, but I think that problem is fixed.

I need the repeater/bridge on my elect. panel becausse of all the modules I have on different phases.

One new thing I noticed was when a vehicle leaves my home it is not picked up by the EagleEye, could be because the engine is not hot enough to trigger the EagleEye, because if I walk toward the sensor it is triggered, The temperature is about -5 degrees C today.

Thanks for the help
God bless you
I'll report again tomorrow

Jim

[mike]

I LOVE PR0OGRESS!!

......I also changed the code to D-1..........The first thing I noticed was I no longer could get a singal from the EagleEye to the 501 at it's location,.........I had to change locations and move it about 50 feet closer.
 
i can,t reconcile in my mind why this would be so...changing the code should have no effect on distance of course...maybe now without repeating it is showing how it was on the A1 also but you really couldn't tell due to all the repeating before....

I still have the line bridge connected and that is probably why I get four chimes from each motion detected, the Robodog just keeps barking for about 30 seconds, don't know if I can change the time for that.

maybe that is the way it is designed? seems like you would want 3-4 beeps to be sure you hear it?  and I think I read in past on the bark dog thing it does go for like 30 sec per trigger?

.......One new thing I noticed was when a vehicle leaves my home it is not picked up by the EagleEye, could be because the engine is not hot enough to trigger the EagleEye, because if I walk toward the sensor it is triggered, The temperature is about -5 degrees C today.

I believe IR sensors work against ambient temp, so it shouldn't 5C or 25C i think. I have driveway sensors from another company since I need them to work 1/2mile away, and instrucs do state to install to see exhaust pipe as car goes by.  I have noticed over the years that with these 4 sensors along the drive they do better seeing cars come in that go out probably due to this.  You also said I think you mounted sensor on 2x2 2' high....  as you tweak it in you could try higher looking down - I like this better as i think it has better chance to see stuff since the IR sensor sees all heights then rather than just at 2' level.

[tom j]

...chiming in...
The fact the log indicates "Recieve" indicates it's a PLC from the RR501.
Perhaps the 501 is generating the junk. My advice: Unplug the 501,
get that MS14A inside a desk drawer near your CM15. Let's see if it falses.
If not, keep the MS14 in the drawer, plug the RR501 back in and watch
the log. If still nothing, open the drawer, trip the MS14 and close the drawer
back up. Maybe the 501 needs to hear just one signal before it starts
storming. Oh yeah, XPCR offline while testing. Try a different MS14 outside.
And yes, trees, bushes, and animals will cause it to trip. I had to move my
outside MS14s under the soffit; out of the view of neighboring trees. Now
nothing but humanoids and neighborhood cats trip 'em. Oh, sorry 'bout this,
but make sure you don't have any macros sending A1 RF out else the 501
will likely hear them and start all over again.

I assume yours is out of the sun, that's the only real problem I have with mine the sun triggers them, so I have two outside just programed for night and they function flawlessly, with just a little tweaking from x10 these could really be phenomenal for detecting intruders!!! Thanks


Tom j.

[Fromjim]

EXCELLENT CATCH TROLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Yes, we all missed it:  if it was coming from the REAL eye it would have said "received RF"  not "received!"

So that confirms it Jim, the A1's are NOT coming from the eye as you thought!!!!!!!!!

Now all u have to do is find what is sending them instead.  In the meantime, make your system work by SIMPLY CHANGING THE DANG CODE FROM A1 TO SOMETHING ELSE.

Are you sure?

Here is a printout of activity, and it seems to be working normally, although it missed a car entering just before this test. Why are some D1 and a couple D, is this just a repeat?
Your thoughts.

Jim

Event Date/Time Action Data
0 11/28/2010 11:22:55 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
1 11/28/2010 11:23:59 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
2 11/28/2010 11:24:06 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
3 11/28/2010 11:24:06 AM Receive D On (Driveway East)
4 11/28/2010 11:24:13 AM Receive D On (Driveway East)
5 11/28/2010 11:25:01 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
6 11/28/2010 11:25:02 AM Receive D Off (Driveway East)

[dave w]

Here is a printout of activity, and it seems to be working normally, although it missed a car entering just before this test. Why are some D1 and a couple D, is this just a repeat?
Your thoughts.

Jim

Event Date/Time Action Data
0 11/28/2010 11:22:55 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
1 11/28/2010 11:23:59 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
2 11/28/2010 11:24:06 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
3 11/28/2010 11:24:06 AM Receive D On (Driveway East)
4 11/28/2010 11:24:13 AM Receive D On (Driveway East)
5 11/28/2010 11:25:01 AM Receive D1 (Driveway East)
6 11/28/2010 11:25:02 AM Receive D Off (Driveway East)

Lines 2 & 3 and lines 5 & 6 show the actual X10 protocol which is:
1. Send House Code followed by Unit Code.
2. Send House Code followed by command (ON, OFF, BRI, DIM).

This allows multiple X10  modules on the same house code to be "cued up" for a single command. Line 1 can be repeated changing only the the unit code. All modules addressed will then execute the next X10 command of the same house code.  i.e five different "house code A" lamp modules can be addressed and dimmed with one DIM command, and they will all dim simultaneously. The old Maxi Controller allowed the user to do this manually.

[Fromjim]

Lines 2 & 3 and lines 5 & 6 show the actual X10 protocol which is:
1. Send House Code followed by Unit Code.
2. Send House Code followed by command (ON, OFF, BRI, DIM).

This allows multiple X10  modules on the same house code to be "cued up" for a single command. Line 1 can be repeated changing only the the unit code. All modules addressed will then execute the next X10 command of the same house code.  i.e five different "house code A" lamp modules can be addressed and dimmed with one DIM command, and they will all dim simultaneously. The old Maxi Controller allowed the user to do this manually.
[/quote]

Where can I find information explaining the commands or receives in the activity list?
You seem to know quite a bit about them, can you help guide me to a good explaination.

My next step was to read all the help files provided with AHP, is this the way to go?

Thanks

Jim

[enauman]

To reduce the sensitivity of the Eagle Eye sensor you can lower the gain of the op-amp (used as a comparator) that interfaces the sensor.  The gain resistor is R4 on the PCB.  It's stock value is 10M.  You can play around with this value somewhere between 1M 1nd 10 M.  Using a 1M resistor makes the sensor respond to only very significant changes in IR.  I used 5M in mine and it reduced the false triggers significantly.  Also if you change the low pass filter cap, C12, from a 1uF electrolytic to a 0.1uF ceramic or film cap, you can raise the required motion speed.  Meaning it requires the change in IR to be quicker than stock in order to trigger.  If you have any questions, email me.