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[x10novice]

So I just bought my first x10 security kit. It came with an lm15a, how exactly do I use it with the sc1200? Do I just buy an RR501 and use my KR32A with the RR501 to configure the lm15a or do I need anything else? What does my sc1200 need exactly to control the LM15a? Also is there a cheaper alternative than getting an RR501 to configure the LM15a? Thanks!

[Brian H]

The SC1200 has a transceiver in it similar to a TM751 as it does not appear to be polite. It will tranceive all sixteen Unit Codes for the House Code the SC1200 is set to.

The Lights On and Lights Off buttons on the Keyfob will send On and Off commands to the second light code the SC1200 is set to. Like default House Code A and Light Code {Unit Code}  1. The keyfob buttons would send A2 On and Off

The SC1200 can program LM15A to the House Code it is set to.
Put the LM15A in a table lamp so you can power it up locally.
Turn on the table lamp.
Use the SC1200 keyboard input the unit number then push the ON key.
Do that three times within thirty seconds and the LM15A should now be programmed to what you inputted.

If your kit has the SH624 in it. There are On Off buttons for units 1-4 on it. So it can also control the LM15A if it is programmed to unit 1-4.

[x10novice]

Okay thanks, that worked, now my problem is, if I plug it into a different 15A circuit in the house, it doesn't seem to work?

[Brian H]

Sounds like a phase coupling or noise and signal sucker issue.
Most homes are wired split single phase. Sending an X10 power line signal on one phase and having the controlled module on the other phase. Means the signal has to go all the way to the breaker box. Out to the transformer on the street. Back to the breaker box and then to the addressed module. Below are a few links to troubleshooting tips. My thoughts are finding the cause of the power line signal loss. Maybe signal noise or suckers and phase coupling.

The XPCR coupler repeater is fairly inexpensive from some independent X10 dealers. Though the gold standard JV Engineering XTB-IIR is the champ in my book.

http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

[x10novice]

If I don't want to mess with the breaker, would something like http://www.amazon.com/SIGNALINC-PLUG-COUPLER-3-WIRE-DRYERS/dp/B0007UCAGU work for me?

[Brian H]

The passive dryer coupler may work OK.
Depends on the signal strength, noise on the power lines and distance from the outlet to the breaker box.
If the passive alone doesn't work. Maybe a JV Engineering XTB in adition to the dryer coupler may work. It plugs into a standard outlet and the passive coupler could do the other coupling.
http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/4816qs.pdf
http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/4816.pdf

You have a three pin dryer outlet. I know the four pin Smarthome passive dryer module is discontinued.
It is the reversed condition with their four pin modules. The active repeater is still available and the passive is discontinued.

[azgdds]

I am also having trouble with my LM15A, socket rockets.  They are controlled by the SC12A and the SH624 fine, but the keyfobs don't control the lights at all.  The keyfobs (both KR32A and KR10A) arm/disarm the system fine, but no light control.  How do I get the socket rockets to be controlled by the keyfobs?

[Brian H]

The SC1200A has two light codes.
The one set in options and the next highest one.
The Keyfobs activate the second light code. So the LM15A has to be programmed  to the higher light code.
So set the socket rockets to the higher light code and see they then can be controlled.

If you didn't change the default House Code A and Light Code 1. The second light code would be A2. Set the LM15A to A2.

Near the top of this thread are instructions on how to reprogram the LM15A.

[azgdds]

ok.  i changed things back to stock using A1,2.  I then programed using 2 on the keypad instead of 1 and it works.  I don't get the difference between 1 and 2, however.  What is 1 for and how is it different from the security light button on the SH642 control module?  

Also, can I have different keyfobs control different sets of lights or is it an all or nothing thing with the fobs?  Any light set to 2 on my setup will be turned on/off by every fob and fobs can only control something set to 2.

Thanks

[Brian H]

To clarify one point. Most X10 addresses refer to a Unit Code. With the SC1200A. X10 calls it a Light Code for reasons they only know.

The SH624 has four unit control buttons on it. Having it set to the same House Code as the SC1200. It will control unit codes 1-4.
So if you have the socket rocket on unit code 1. The SH624 will control it with button set 1, but since the security keyfob only does the higher Light {unit} code. It will not control the socket rocket.
If you set the socket rocket to unit code 2. Both the security keyfob and the SH624s second button set will control it.

The security keyfobs with the SC1200 can only control the higher code so it can't control other address.
The SH624 can do unit codes 1-4 so you have some selection of addresses.
The SC1200 also processes standard X10 signals from nonsecurity keyfobs and remotes. So you could use a KR19A or KR22A with it. Along with the Palmpad HR12A that can do all sixteen unit codes with one common house code.

[Brian H]

I did not have an exact answer for your SH624's Security Light Button function. So I set up an X10 signal monitor and tried it. It sends the Lower address when activated.
The KR32A and KR10A send the higher address. When their Lights On and Off buttons are used.
Results attached.
 
So the Security Light buttons on the SH624 control the House Code and Light Code set in the Options Menu of the SC1200A.
The KR10A and KR32A keyfobs light buttons do the second higher Light Code.
So both can't control the same addressed lights.  

Side note on the SH624 Security remote.
The Arm Away and Arm Home buttons act differently depending on the Max/Min switch setting.