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[WayneS]

I am a technical guy and work in a high tech field. I have been wanting to implement some home automation for a while and decided this weekend was as good a time as any. Now my head hurts. This was supposed to be plug in and go.

I have purchased a AM466 for the Christmas tree lights, a WTM75 transceiver, HR12A remote and a CM17A firecracker for my computer. I have been completely unable to get any of it to work.

I think the HR12A is bad. The WTM75 doesn't respond at all to the remote, even when holding it 2 inches from the antenna. Also, when I first started the led on the remote would blink when a button is pressed, now the led remains lit until I remove the batteries or they run out of juice. The WTM75 works properly when the button on the module is pressed.

Assuming that the HR12A is bad, I tried using the firecracker on a Windows XP laptop. However, the software hangs every time I try to configure the firecracker. My laptop only has one serial port and it is configured as Com1. I have verified that nothing else is running that could be using this port. I even manually added a port on COM4, but that was no use.

I have searched these forums and Google all day but I have made no progress what so ever.



Thanks.

[Noam]

I am a technical guy and work in a high tech field. I have been wanting to implement some home automation for a while and decided this weekend was as good a time as any. Now my head hurts. This was supposed to be plug in and go.

I have purchased a AM466 for the Christmas tree lights, a WTM75 transceiver, HR12A remote and a CM17A firecracker for my computer. I have been completely unable to get any of it to work.

I think the HR12A is bad. The WTM75 doesn't respond at all to the remote, even when holding it 2 inches from the antenna. Also, when I first started the led on the remote would blink when a button is pressed, now the led remains lit until I remove the batteries or they run out of juice. The WTM75 works properly when the button on the module is pressed.

Did you make sure to set them both to the same Housecode?
I am not familiar with the WTM75, but if it is equivalent to the TM751, then it only has one unit code: Code #1.
It is possible that one of the buttons on the remote is stuck, or might have a shorted contact under the rubber buttons.
If you feel adventurous enough, you might try opening up the remote to check it out.

Assuming that the HR12A is bad, I tried using the firecracker on a Windows XP laptop. However, the software hangs every time I try to configure the firecracker. My laptop only has one serial port and it is configured as Com1. I have verified that nothing else is running that could be using this port. I even manually added a port on COM4, but that was no use.

I have searched these forums and Google all day but I have made no progress what so ever.

What do you have the serial port settings to?

I never used a CM17A with XP, and I sold the only ones I had a few months ago.

[WayneS]

Yes, I made sure they were on the same house code. I even changed the house code on both of them to 2 just to make sure.
From my reading, the WTM75 is the same as the TM751, with the exception that the WTM75 responds to the Big Red Button.

It doesn't matter which button I press the result is the same. I have already opened the remote and checked it out. I didn't see any shorts but the soldering job was definitely done by hand, not the best I have seen. I will give it a closer look and test with my multimeter.

I have my COM port set to 9600, 8 none and 1, No Flow Control. this is the standard setting that I use for console connections to routers and switches at work.

I pulled an old desktop out of the closet with a serial port to see if it makes a difference (my current desktop doesn't have a serial port).

[Brian H]

The CM17A is an odd duck so to speak.
It does not use the normal TXD send and RXD receive signals. It used DTR and RTS to toggle the RF On and Off and also supply its power.
http://software.x10.com/pub/manuals/cm17a_protocol.txt

If the old PC works and the laptop does not. It could be the serial signals it is using.
Another thought is maybe handshaking settings.
You are trying to use the Xfire program?

[WayneS]

I got the firecracker working on another desktop running Windows 7. However, I can only turn the transceiver module on and off. I can't get the AM466 to respond.

These are both in the same room. The Christmas tree is plugged into the AM466 and is on. Just in case it is a phase issue, I have the drier running and there is still no response.

[kenrad]

The dryer running doesn't always create a reliable path between phases.   It could be a noise issue if it is blocking one device. Try and move the dvice to a different outlet or check for sources of noise

[Noam]

If the AM466 is on the same circuit as the WTM75 (same room doesn't guarantee the same circuit), and both are set to the same housecode, then you should be able to get the AM466 to turn on, if you can control the WTM75.

Try setting the AM466 to Unit code 1, as well. See if that helps.

You may have something on that circuit that is generating a lot of noise and killing your signal. The WTM75 uses RF, so electrical line noise isn't a problem for it. However, to control the AM466, you'll need clean enough lines.

[WayneS]

I'm pretty sure the AM466 is bad too. Even placing these 6 feet apart on the same wall doesn't get a response from the AM466. I opened it up and rotated the wheel in the relay so the light would be off so I could test the auto sensing and it never came on.

I bought both the AM466 and HR12A on Amazon and the Firecracker and WTM75 on Ebay. At least Amazon's return policy is good.

[Brian H]

The new CFL friendly AM466s. Don't have local control sensing. From what I have observed in my tests of them.

They still can occasionally be triggered back On by some power line noise when switched Off.

If you Date Code Sticker is a late 10xxx or all of 11xxx. It is a fairly good chance yours are CFL friendly models.

No X10 didn't change the part numbers so we could know the changeover point.
Same for the Soft Start Lamp Modules and Wall Switches.  

[WayneS]

Just now had some more time to work on this. I was able to get the AM466 to respond by plugging it and a transceiver into a power strip. I must have a lot more noise in my house than I thought for these not to work on outlets six feet from each other. But the HR12A is definitively bad.

Is there a way to minimize the noise without buying a bunch of filters?

[dave w]

Just now had some more time to work on this. I was able to get the AM466 to respond by plugging it and a transceiver into a power strip. I must have a lot more noise in my house than I thought for these not to work on outlets six feet from each other. But the HR12A is definitively bad.

Is there a way to minimize the noise without buying a bunch of filters?

Try a repeater like the inexpensive XPCR since your system is very small. Repeaters do not reduce the noise but couples the X10 signal to both phases and boosts it, hopefully to a level greater than your noise.

[WayneS]

I am pretty sure my plasma TV is the source of the noise. Unplugging it drastically improved the response of the appliance unit. I went ahead and ordered a filter for it since it was cheap and could get it quick. I am concerned that the filter is only rated at 5amp. My TV is rated at 3.7Amp so I will have to plug my TV directly into the wall outlet with this filter instead of the surge protecting power strip with everything else. I did look at the XPCR and will probably go ahead and get one of those too. I have a ton of electronics in this house with switching power supplies. Two flat screen TVs, four computer monitors, two computers, and two servers that run 24/7. As well as a few game console that get quite a bit of use.

I am thinking of ways to expand my home automation now.


Thanks for the help.

[Noam]

I am pretty sure my plasma TV is the source of the noise. Unplugging it drastically improved the response of the appliance unit. I went ahead and ordered a filter for it since it was cheap and could get it quick. I am concerned that the filter is only rated at 5amp. My TV is rated at 3.7Amp so I will have to plug my TV directly into the wall outlet with this filter instead of the surge protecting power strip with everything else. I did look at the XPCR and will probably go ahead and get one of those too. I have a ton of electronics in this house with switching power supplies. Two flat screen TVs, four computer monitors, two computers, and two servers that run 24/7. As well as a few game console that get quite a bit of use.

I am thinking of ways to expand my home automation now.


Thanks for the help.

I see three simple options:
1. Plug the TV into a separate surge protector, and plug that into the filter.
2. Plug the TV into the filter, and plug the filter into the surge protector with all the other equipment.
3. Use a 10A filter: http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/FilterLinc-10-Amp-Plug-In-Noise-Filter/p.aspx between the surge protector and the wall.

[Brian H]

Since some surge suppressors also can act like a signal sucker.
Filtering the whole thing with a larger filter could also be an option.

If the five amp filter is the XPPF. Just observe it with the plasma TV On and see if it gets warm or smells warm.

[WayneS]

Since some surge suppressors also can act like a signal sucker.
Filtering the whole thing with a larger filter could also be an option.

If the five amp filter is the XPPF. Just observe it with the plasma TV On and see if it gets warm or smells warm.

As it turns out it wasn't the TV causing the problem. It was everything else on the surge protector. Interestingly, the most offensive device is my Logitech Revue. I had to put it on its own filter. The other two top offenders were my Tivo and cable company DVR. 

The plasma power cord has a ferrite bead at the end. I wonder if that filters the same noise that would affect X10.