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[x10wizard]

Insteon doesn't make any sort of companion switch, you would just use a second 2477D and cap off the second 2477D's red load wire, and don't use the traveler wire that runs in the walls between the two switches.

Program both switches to the same X10 house and unit code.  Or, you could just link both 2477D's together using Insteon, and then only have the one switch with the load programmed with a X10 house and unit code.

Or, instead of a second 2477D, you could use any X10 capable transmitter, such as a X10 XPT wall transmitter and its keypad.

Or, you could put a Insteon 6-button or 8-button keypad dimmer in the second location instead of a 2477D, as Insteon keypads are also still X10 capable.

[rufunky]

Thank you for your help. If I end up going with a better x10 switch I will most likely go with the 2477D.

I did, however, find a schematic for the old hard start ws467 that I happen to have laying around. It appears these can pretty easily be converted to 3-way switches just by adding the missing red wire and pairing it up with a companion switch? I went ahead and took both units apart to compare and it looks like we may have a winner.

EDIT: Never mind. Further inspection shows three components missing in order to convert it to 3-way .

[Brian H]

Glad you found the schematic and adding the red wire maybe all you need.
There is an Insteon Toggle type dimmer that you could also think about. Though it is the older power line only type.
https://www.smarthome.com/togglelinc-dimmer-insteon-2466dw-remote-control-dimmer-switch-white.html

[dave w]

EDIT: Never mind. Further inspection shows three components missing in order to convert it to 3-way .

http://www.laureanno.com/x10-6.html

Check the note on bottom right of the schematic.
1N4004 is a 1 amp, 400 volt diode.
1N4148 is a small signal, switching diode.
the 10K ohm resister is probably a one quarter watt resister.
Both diodes should be cheap, if only you had a Radio Shack on the corner. Do you have a Fry's close? 

[rufunky]

EDIT: Never mind. Further inspection shows three components missing in order to convert it to 3-way .

http://www.laureanno.com/x10-6.html

Check the note on bottom right of the schematic.
1N4004 is a 1 amp, 400 volt diode.
1N4148 is a small signal, switching diode.
the 10K ohm resister is probably a one quarter watt resister.
Both diodes should be cheap, if only you had a Radio Shack on the corner. Do you have a Fry's close?

Nope, no frys but I'm sure I do have a mouser and digikey account for work.  I just wondering if its worth the effort though. It would be nice if I could just make the new soft-start plw02 quieter.... Sound dampening calk? 

[Brian H]

I looked at the photo again.

It looks like the coil is fastened to a plastic post in the switch. By a small glob of glue.
Some added calk may help.
If the coil is wound loose and buzzing. Added calk my not do much.

If we could find a schematic on the new design. That would show if the coil was moved to a different connection in the circuit.
Like the LM465 was. Completely different microprocessor, power supply and the coil was in a different location circuit wise.

[bkenobi]

Glad you found the schematic and adding the red wire maybe all you need.
There is an Insteon Toggle type dimmer that you could also think about. Though it is the older power line only type.
https://www.smarthome.com/togglelinc-dimmer-insteon-2466dw-remote-control-dimmer-switch-white.html

I still kick myself for not buying the X10 version of this (rebranded identical item) when it was available for $22 and in ivory.  I was being cheap and figured they'd be available for a while so I was going to wait for a sale w/ free shipping.  Instead, they pulled the X10 branded one.  I have a couple of the SmartHome versions from a New Years sale (or something), but it was only $40-ish rather than half that price.   

[rufunky]

I looked at the photo again.

It looks like the coil is fastened to a plastic post in the switch. By a small glob of glue.
Some added calk may help.
If the coil is wound loose and buzzing. Added calk my not do much.

If we could find a schematic on the new design. That would show if the coil was moved to a different connection in the circuit.
Like the LM465 was. Completely different microprocessor, power supply and the coil was in a different location circuit wise.

The coil actually isn't attached to anything. Other than the two wires that connect it to the board, it is free floating.

 I couldn't figure out from the schematic what the part number was for the coil. I was trying to get more info on it so I could possibly search for a higher quality one as I think you may be correct with it being wound loose.

[Brian H]

X10 usually had their coils and transformers. Made to their specification and may have not had their part numbers on the component. The ones with an X10 RF transmitter in them where in the FCC Database. Most had schematics and parts lists. Coils and transformers had their custom part numbers in the parts lists.
The old WS467 is marked 47u no current rating. In the files I found in my archives.
The web page for the PLW02 says 60-500 watts. 500 watts with 120 VAC is about 4.16 amps.

This is a set of 1998 schematics. Found on Tom's web site. So X10WTI may have made changes over the years. Before the total redesign for Soft Start and  Preset Dim. In 2007.
http://www.laureanno.com/

[Brian H]

You may find this information helpful. It is on how the Soft Start Preset Dim wall switches act.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Newer_Wall_Switches_and_Preset_Dim

[rufunky]

X10 usually had their coils and transformers. Made to their specification and may have not had their part numbers on the component.

Thanks again, Brian. That makes sense, they did appear to be made in-house and not for mass production. I'll have a look through the other info you provided.

[rufunky]

So I purchased this stuff from Home Depot called Plug Duct Seal Compound for under $3 to try and contain the buzzing a bit.

The product is a non-conductive compound for sealing of electrical raceway connections from air, noise, and moisture.
I only covered the coil as I was concerned for the other components need to breathe? I then wrapped the seam with electrical tape and it def made it as quiet or slightly more than the hard start switch.

[Brian H]

Glad you got it and thanks for sharing.     

[rufunky]

Glad you got it and thanks for sharing.     

Thanks! No problem, hope it helps someone.