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[hawkn7]

  Ok ,  I have my computer setup with my X10 wall module for Xmas. The cable runs from the computer to the wall mod. The entire room is on phase A. I have mods in the living room and they are also on phase A (whole room is on one circuit). I have a wireless mod in the living room so i can use my firecraker to turn stuff on by remote. IT WORKS on all my mods in the house,both phase A and B. I then moved the wireless mod to my kitchen and it also worked but when I go to my computer and try to get it to work it WONT WORK in my living room but everywhere else. The computer will tun on my mods that i have outside(different circuit) and will also turn on some other mods in the house(different circuit).
I took the wireless mod and pluged it in the computer room. It WONT operate anything in the living room either but will operate the other mods i talked about above.  I added a .1 Uf cap on my panel but that didnt help. ANY SUGESTIONS BEFORE I BUY AN AMP??

[hawkn7]

UPDATE

I went around the house and plugged in a appliance mod with a night light on it. I then activated the mod from the computer on 13 different circuits. Some rooms it worked and some not. I then went to my breaker box in the basement and noted which ones worked and which ones didn't. I then determined if it was phase A or phase B. I had 7 circuits work and where phase B and 2 work that where phase A. I then had 4 circuits NOT work and all of them where phase A. So why did 2 of the circuits that are phase A work?? Could it be that 2 phase A breaker are my first 2 breakers by the main?? Looks like I am going to get a Amp/coupler. I See no reason to by just a coupler since I allready have a capacitor in my box. Which is better the ACT230 or the X10 PRO coupler???

My computer is hooked up on phase B by the way

[Brian H]

If the computer is in the same outlet or circuit. As a test try the wireless module with the computer unplugged. Off is not enough. I sounds like you have noise makers or signal suckers.

[vhoang]

It can get to all the modules from the living room, but not from the computer room?

I would agree with brian and search the computer room first for something that is interfering.

UPS are known signal killers.   Computer / Laptop / TV can often suck up and distroy signals to protect
it's own circuitry.

A signal meter would be awefully handy right now.

I haven't used ACT products yet but their stuff has been around a while so you shouldn't have a problem.    I use the PZZ01 just because it claims to block neighborly signals.

I've worked with signal meters in single story 3500sq/ft homes before and sometimes there just isn't enough umph to get from one end to the other even with phase couplers.   Boosterlincs work extremely well when you've eliminated most of the noise and need a boost to ensure reliability.   Placed in the far corner(s) of the home, they pick up even the slightest signal and strengthens it for nearby modules.

[dave w]

UPDATE

 Looks like I am going to get a Amp/coupler. I See no reason to by just a coupler since I allready have a capacitor in my box. Which is better the ACT230 or the X10 PRO coupler???

hawkn7

No, if you have a cap now, don't waste money on a coupler. Get an amplifier/coupler.

I have used both the ACT CR230, CR234, and the X10 / Leviton repeaters (same as X10 Pro XPCR). Both the CR230 and the XPCR have their foibles, but I liked the CR230 better. It had about 2 volt higher output than the Leviton repeater. Additionally the Leviton unit would periodically get confused and lock-up. It was easy to reset, since I had it wired to panel through dedicated breakers. Cycling the power always got it back working again.

The down side of the CR230 was, it blew a diode in the power supply and it was obvious ACT run their diodes in the power supply "hot". However the failure could have been a simple fluke.

FWIW, I am EXTREMELY happy with my current ACT CR234.

[hawkn7]

vhoang Thank you for your advice. and everyone else. The computer is in my computer room and I cant get the signal into my livingroom. It really looks like its a phase problem as i have placed mods threw out the house and 90 percent of them that work or on the same phase as the computer. The other 10 percent that work or on the same phase as the computer but those breaker or located at the top of my box so they would see the incoming signal faster than other breakers down below. As for the other ones that DONT work, they are on the oppisite phase as the computer. Here is a great article I read about coupling. http://www.act-solutions.com/kingery03.htm

[hawkn7]

OK THANKS  I am looking at the CR230 now. Should I lean more towards the CR234?? Whats the differance besides some led's and it nicer looking??

[vhoang]

I was hoping there was someone who can answer that better for you.   
As far as what I can tell from the to models, the 234 will pick up smaller
X10 signal strength ~25mV.    The 230 couples ~100mV signal.

I would go with the 234 if you have the option to pick.

[vhoang]

A reliable X10 setup should have ~250mV signal to every location in the house.

All modules should respond to 100mV(without too much noise).   Some less.

The signal will be stronges at the source (computer), can attenuate (weaken by devices in it's path) as it approaces the 220-bridge / circuit breaker, then out to it's final destination.

I am not sure if it's the 220 bridge or circuit breaker that marks the center of all circuits.   I am guessing it's the breaker although the 220 souce (dryer) is the source where both phases meet in your house as it splits at that point (before going to the breaker?). 

Can anyone sketch me out a diagram?

In any case you can get a good system working with just a coupler, and getting rid of all signal absorbers and noise.   If you can't, an amplifier at the coupler can boost the signal strength to the extremeties of the circuits.

And if your house is even bigger than that with a bunch of stuff you can't control, you can put in a boosterlinc at the far end of the house to pick up signals ~25mV and re-energize it for modules in that area.

[TakeTheActive]

ANY SUGESTIONS BEFORE I BUY AN AMP??

• MAP / MEASURE / CORRECT
  .
• Locate and correct your NOISE MAKER and SIGNAL SUCKER problems *BEFORE* you start throwing money into AMPS.
  .
• Have you mapped out all of your circuits?
  .
• Do you own an X10 Signal Strength Meter?
  .
• How long have you been using X10 products?
  .
• SEARCH the forums for JeffVolp and XTB.
   - Visit his website and read about it.
   - Visit NG:comp.home.automation and read about it.
  

[TakeTheActive]

...you can get a good system working with just a coupler, and getting rid of all signal absorbers and noise.

That sums it up! If you just start throwing money at the problem without building a sound foundation, you're just P*SSing into the wind.

...I am not sure if it's the 220 bridge or circuit breaker that marks the center of all circuits.   I am guessing it's the breaker although the 220 souce (dryer) is the source where both phases meet in your house as it splits at that point (before going to the breaker?).

• 1.) Install a new separate double breaker in your panel and wire a PHASE COUPLER to it.
  .
• 2.) Install a duplex socket in a handy box NEXT to your panel:
   - Break the TAB to isolate the TOP outlet from the BOTTOM outlet.
   - Wire the TOP outlet to the TOP of the newly-added circuit breaker.
   - Wire the BOTTOM outlet to the BOTTOM of the newly-added circuit breaker.
  .
• 3.) Plug a "loaded-with-software" CM11A/CM15A or a RR501 into the TOP outlet - TEST your coverage.
  .
• 4.) Plug a "loaded-with-software" CM11A/CM15A or a RR501 into the BOTTOM outlet - TEST your coverage.
  .
• 5.) CORRECT any noted problems.
  .
• 6.) ENJOY YOUR X10 setup!
  

[hawkn7]

Hello everyone. I am back.  I had some time off from my Job since they sent it to CHINA so I havnt been doing to much on the x-10 side. I did buy and hook up a ACT cr230 but here is something confusing I don't get??  Let say my transmitter is on phase A and my light is on phase B. (controlled by a appliance switch) When I hit ON/OFF for that address, i get no response. When I hit ALL ON/OFF it works fine. If i move the transmitter to the B phase it works fine. The cr230 led flickers every time I give it a signal from the transmitter.

So is there a difference in signal level when using the ALL LIGHTS OFF/ON command compared to a single addressed command?

[Brian H]

No signal level is the same. Difference is a single address like B5 On. Sends a B4 address then a BOn. All Lights Off just sends a B All Lights Off command.
On your CR134 are the switches set correctly? All but #4 Off and #4 On? Try #3 also On; so known repeated signals are not resent again.
Is the original Cap still in place?

[hawkn7]

I dont know I will have to look at that. Had no idea it had dip switches in it. I assume you have to crack it open to see this as it is just in a plain black plastic double gang size box. Anything else I should look for inside??

[hawkn7]

CR134??? I have the ACT230