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Author Topic: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim  (Read 3679 times)

jshores

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Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« on: January 13, 2007, 09:38:52 PM »

Okay, I did major work in the home today. Installed a XPCR and replaced 12 switches with WS467s, WS4777s & CS277s.  Everything accepts local control and AHP ON/OFF commands. I have 2 problem children -- 2 spotlights wired to a WS467 and a ceiling fan light (fan on separate switch) on a WS4777/CS277 3-way setup.  Both the spots & ceiling fan light respond to local and AHP ON/OFF, but neither will dim from AHP.  Interestingly, both are on the same circuit breaker/in the same room.

How do I even begin to troubleshoot this?
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jshores

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Re: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2007, 08:43:38 PM »

Okay, so here's an update.  I moved my CM15A around the house today and found that I get varying results depending on the outlet I plug in to.  Not to go into alot of boring detail, but suffice to say that I've either got a noise problem or an attenuation problem to solve.  I would have thought the XPCR I installed would have helped any attenuation I was having, but it's not.  So, for now I moved the CM15A to an outlet directly underneath my circuit breaker panel (shortest distance to the distribution point) and am seeing consistent results in most rooms.  I did seem to lose the ability to control 2 rooms I had control of yesterday, but I've got to focus on one problem at a time.

I guess I'll be buying a signal meter this week. From what I've gathered from reading other posts, I am not suprised by the system's behavior, but I'm not looking forward to figuring out what's causing it.  ???
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-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)

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Re: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2007, 08:52:48 PM »

Okay, so here's an update.  I moved my CM15A around the house today and found that I get varying results depending on the outlet I plug in to.  Not to go into alot of boring detail, but suffice to say that I've either got a noise problem or an attenuation problem to solve.  I would have thought the XPCR I installed would have helped any attenuation I was having, but it's not.  So, for now I moved the CM15A to an outlet directly underneath my circuit breaker panel (shortest distance to the distribution point) and am seeing consistent results in most rooms.  I did seem to lose the ability to control 2 rooms I had control of yesterday, but I've got to focus on one problem at a time.

I guess I'll be buying a signal meter this week. From what I've gathered from reading other posts, I am not suprised by the system's behavior, but I'm not looking forward to figuring out what's causing it.  ???

In the mean-time, unplug things and turn off lights one-at-a-time and test again and again.  You'd be surprised what can be a "noise generator" (even if the device is off)!
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robster

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Re: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2007, 01:12:19 PM »

When I first got my X10 stuff a few years ago, nothing would work outside of the room where I had my CM15A.  Using an Elk signal meter I immediately found out that the biggest "signal suckers" or noise causers (it doesn't matter what you call it, technically it's the same) are: UPS battery backup systems; surge suppressor extension cords (and surge suppressors in general); plasma TVs and stereo equipment; computers; fluorescent lights.  We moved not long thereafter, into a spec home that we were able to customize.  In order to get a very reliable system, I:
1.  Modded the CM15A antenna (per other posts) with a standard FM T-style antenna from Radio Shack: now can receive RF commands from throughout the house and yard.
2.  Installed passive phase coupler on the dryer (didn't want to mess with capacitors or the circuit breaker box).
3.  Installed X10 signal filters on plasma TV, computers, stereos, and whole-house intercom system.
4.  Eliminated all fluorescent lighting except one in the garage.
5.  Read past postings to gain knowledge and keep up on current postings because I am now interested.

I'm just starting to play around with Smart Macros, as I have almost no programming expertise.  I'm considering adding cameras, although my only preparation is to get rid of my old 2.4 cordless phones, replacing them with 5.8 Ghz Panasonic phones (thanks to Costco's great deals). 

I do have the DS7000 security system and it works like a champ (after a little futzing around). 

I will say that the one thing that blows me away is how weak X10's manuals are.  I would think with a very little amount of effort they could be updated and available on-line.  It would save newbies a lot of exasperation.

But all things considered, I'm a happy camper!

Rob
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JeffVolp

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Re: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2007, 03:55:53 PM »

Quote
Using an Elk signal meter I immediately found out that the biggest "signal suckers" or noise causers (it doesn't matter what you call it, technically it's the same)


Actually, that is incorrect.  Technically they are quite different.  One can often be dealt with by a global approach to increasing signal level.  The other must be addressed at the source of the noise.

While testing the XTB-II I found that multiple compact fluorescent lights beating together virtually mimicked X10 commands, and I witnessed several occurrences when they actually morphed one X10 command into another.  Higher noise levels can totally mask underlying X10 signals, and cause all kinds of havoc in a PLC system.  The worst offenders have been cheap generic compact fluorescent lights.  Their internal chopper can run at the X10 carrier frequency.  Because these are throwaway devices where low cost is the primary driver, there doesn't seem to be much attempt to limit radiated noise.  That might cost another dime, and that adds up when you sell millions of bulbs.  A filter directly at the noise source is the only way to deal with this problem.

Signal suckers tend to be rather benign, just causing modules on their circuit not to respond reliably due to low signal levels.  Signal suckers are caused by a manufacturer taking the cheapest approach to meeting the FCC conducted radiation spec by placing a capacitor directly across the AC input leads.  That prevents most noise from leaving the offending device, but it also attenuates any X10 signals on that particular circuit.  A filter can again be used to isolate the device and reduce the "suckability".  However, in a house with multiple computers and other electronic equipment, another option is to start with a much stronger signal as a global approach. 


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robster

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Re: Dimmable Switches Won't Dim
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2007, 10:07:31 AM »

Thanks for the clarification, Jeff.  You just helped me check off my "learn something new every day," early today!   ;D

Rob
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