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[Brian H]

2005 is before the CFL friendly model was being sold.
I would cut the jumper shown in your previous post and the diode. I have done both in a few modules.
That should fix the problem without needing the extra small load on the output in most situations. A real small am I on or off sensing current is still there. Unless your glowing indicator is real sensitive. No extra external load should be needed.

[dhouston]

It just occurred to me that the name used by X10 (X10 USA, X10 WTI, X10 ) along with their headquarters' location might be as good an indicator as the date codes. They did seem to relocate often with an accompanying name change.

[Brian H]

Yes you found the diode. I forgot that there was another site with the information was still in operation.
You may want to just do the diode and leave the jumper.

[Jason B]

EDIT, crap. It worked for a few times, but only after a few seconds of plugging the appliance module back in. It clicks, but I think it needs that extra load that I'm missing. For some reason it works right after I plug the module into the wall socket for a few times. Looks like I have to resort to the mini light or resistor. Darn!

How would cutting that jumper benefit me? That's is you have a wall switch that turns an outlet on and off?

[Brian H]

Sorry if I went down a offset path on this.
Cut the jumper. As it disables the local control function.
Then see if it still acts strange.

Did I read that the module is in an outlet that has a regular wall switch controlling it and not an X10 wall switch controlling the outlet?

[Jason B]

Sorry if I went down a offset path on this.
Cut the jumper. As it disables the local control function.
Then see if it still acts strange.

Did I read that the module is in an outlet that has a regular wall switch controlling it and not an X10 wall switch controlling the outlet?

It's ok, was crossing fingers. In this situation, no, there is no wall switch controlling this outlet, in this instance. Still cut the jumper? Could that help?

[Brian H]

Yes cut the jumper.
Then see what happens.
If the very low current Red indicator still glows or turning off a inductive load kicks it back on. Then the external small load maybe needed.

[Jason B]

Yes cut the jumper.
Then see what happens.
If the very low current Red indicator still glows or turning off a inductive load kicks it back on. Then the external small load maybe needed.

Ok, finally found it and cut jumper. See pic. Will re-assemble and test again. There is only one jumper it seems, so this must be it.

[Jason B]

Darn, didn't work. Looks like I'm going to need to add the led night light, to get more current in there. What's the best way to do that with this module. Get a cube, with two plugs, and then plug in my device and the nightlight? Just trying to see best way to fit it in. I did same thing with the Sr227 outlet, but it was easier, since it's an outlet, and this has 2 pin plug on the bottom.

[Brian H]

Yes that is the jumper to be cut.

The problem is the Hunter Douglas interface on the output will not turn off, it has a indicator that is still glowing dimly or physically goes back on when turned off?

Easiest way is to use a power cube and incandescent night light along with the load on the output.
Some folks use a different load like an old wall wart power supply. If the wall wart is a switcher it could cause noise when on. That could cause a on works off does not situation.
Some have wired a resistor inside a replacement plug and use it in place of the night light bulb.
I thought someone tried to solder the wire across the output inside the module but don't remember if it worked or physically fit.
47,000 Ohm 1/2 watt should be fine for a resistor. Some have gone as low as 33,000 Ohms 1 watt.
 

[Jason B]

Yes that is the jumper to be cut.

The problem is the Hunter Douglas interface on the output will not turn off, it has a indicator that is still glowing dimly or physically goes back on when turned off?

Easiest way is to use a power cube and incandescent night light along with the load on the output.
Some folks use a different load like an old wall wart power supply. If the wall wart is a switcher it could cause noise when on. That could cause a on works off does not situation.
Some have wired a resistor inside a replacement plug and use it in place of the night light bulb.
I thought someone tried to solder the wire across the output inside the module but don't remember if it worked or physically fit.
47,000 Ohm 1/2 watt should be fine for a resistor. Some have gone as low as 33,000 Ohms 1 watt.
 

Thanks sir. The hunter douglas unit has a watch battery inside, to sense when power is turned on/off. Like if it was a normal switch controlling that outlet, it would work of course. There is a light that comes on, just to tell you it's working when on/off. only then I think.

SO this would work



I have an extra sr227, but don't want to deal with replacing the outlet, since last time I did in the other situation (my video) was super hard to fit back in the wall. Also, I swear the outlet I did that too, when it's ON, has caused some other devices not to work when that outlet is ON. Don't know if it's the x10 outlet or not that's the issue.

[Brian H]

The power tap you have in the photo in a two prong version to fit the Appliance Module would work fine.

[Jason B]

Thanks, and I just figured out something cool! Instead of a night light, an iphone charger block will work!!! Those are super small, and barley noticeable!



Cool right? Super small.

[dhouston]

Cool right? Super small.

And, potentially useful although one needs to be aware that some switching power supplies are troublemakers for X10.

[Brian H]

If you get a I can turn it On but not Off.
Then it is a noise maker as Dave pointed out.