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[cardoc4551]

Greeting's,i just purchased a rr501 transceiver,a hr12a palm pad remote,and a two ws467 wall switches.This setup is in my new basement home theater(no electronics installed yet).One ws467 switch controls the 3 sconce lights on the walls(60 watt bulbs) and the other switch controlles the in ceiling lights.The switches are in the same box side by side(double box) and are powered by the same breaker(dedicated new circuit,no other loads except two new outlets with nothing plugged into them currently)I ran one 14-2 wire to the box for the two switches and split the black wire between the two switches and wired the switch according to the instructions.My problem is that neither switch turns on with the palm pad remote,i can turn them off and dim with the remote and also can manually turn the lights on at the switches themselves.Any ideas?I was told it might be interference of some kind?

[Puck]

The switches are in the same box side by side(double box) and are powered by the same breaker(dedicated new circuit,no other loads except two new outlets with nothing plugged into them currently

Have you tried your RR501 in one of the outlets on that circuit?

[HA Dave]

Sounds like a nice set-up cardoc4551! I got started with X10 when I built my home theater.

Puck is right, moving the RR501 will likely resolve your problem. However I used BOTH a TM751 and the RR501. Because the RR501 is a "polite" transceiver it was a quick (and dirty) solution for a (combo) noise/phase problem. The TM751 seems to me to have more humph (power).

The lighting control, and routines has turned out to be the most impressive part of my home theater. I think your on the right track.

[cardoc4551]

Yes i did move the transceiver to both new outlets and got the same results.Some thing else i noticed was that i hear the rr501 click loudly as i use the 1 button on the palm pad(on and off)same noise as you hear when you use the on-off on the transceiver.One switch is set to a 1 and the other to a2.Also when i press the no.2 on the remote after moving it,it no longer does anything.

[Puck]

Some thing else i noticed was that i hear the rr501 click loudly as i use the 1 button on the palm pad(on and off)same noise as you hear when you use the on-off on the transceiver.

The RR501 transceiver has a built in Appliance Module. The Unit Code for this is either 1 or 9 (user selectable). So right now it's on Unit Code 1 (the same as one of your light switches). So you might want to change it to Unit Code 9.

If there is nothing else on that circuit (and your lights are normal incandescent), then you probably have a very noisy appliance on another circuit on the same phase. You will have to locate that source(s) and either move or filter.

MAP / MEASURE / CORRECT

[cardoc4551]

Thanks for the info puck,i am going to follow your guidlines and check to see if i can find the interference.I am just really nervous now because being this is a home theater room there is going to be alot of electronics in this room and if it doesnt work now what about when all the electronics are installed.

[Brian H]

Many modern electronic things generate powerline noise and can make X10 modules flaky. X10 type filters maybe needed on some devices.
My friends X10 setup went almost useless when a small switching type power supply wall wart cell phone charger was turned on.

[cardoc4551]

Would it be possible that the transceiver might be bad? Or is that just not that common.

[Brian H]

Could be bad.
One thing is the RR501 is polite. It checks the powerline for X10 signals before sending anything on the powerline. If noise is faking it into thinking there is an X10 signal on the line. It may not send anything.

The clicking of the appliance relay in the RR501 shows the RF from the remote is reaching the RR501. As sometimes a RF signal doesn't reach the unit.

Did we determine the type of lights in question? Normal incandescent? Since the WS467 gets it power through the load it is controlling. Lamp type can effect things.

[cardoc4551]

Yes they are normal incandecent lights.Now i cany even get them to work at all.Just need to map my circuits and find out whats what to start with.

[Brian H]

That sounds like a good idea. Maps can be a big help.
As part of the map. I also had what breaker did each outlet and light in the house.