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[sargue]

I have a strange automation problem.  I'm hoping some of you with more experience might help me out.

I have a ws12a switch installed in my "TV" room, that I have trouble controlling.  Initially, I had a TM751 controller in another room, and and a CM15a controller, connected to a PC in a third room.  For reference, I also have a phase coupler installed.  With this configuration, I could control every device in my home, except the ws12a in my "TV" room.  I added a second TM751 in the TV room, and I can now control the WS12a with a palm pad remote, but it doesn't respond to commands from the CM15a.

Another interesting note is that I have a Lamp module in this room that does respond to both the palm pad, and CM15a commands.  Based on the house wiring, the lamp module and WS12a should be on the same circuit.

For reference, my TV room includes an extensive TV, Stereo System and computer.  Not sure if there might be interference from one of these devices.... possilby a noise filter would help?

[jkarney]

For reference, my TV room includes an extensive TV, Stereo System and computer.  Not sure if there might be interference from one of these devices.... possibly a noise filter would help?

sargue

The TV, Stereo, or computer is most likely to be the signal sucker/noise source.

To verify if this equipment is your problem. Un-plug your entertainment equipment & computer and then test your X10 modules.  If all works; you have verified that this is the source of the noise/signal sucker. You can continue this test by plugging in one item at a time and repeating your X10 function test to isolate the culprit or culprits.

I had the same problem with my TV & stereo system in my home theater room causing X10 modules not to respond. I plugged in the 10 amp noise filter into the wall outlet and then plugged the power strip for the TV & stereo into the noise filter. Now all x10 in that room works perfectly

Here is a link for a plug in noise filter that I used. FilterLinc 10-Amp Plug-In Noise Filter

There are other filters out there that will work as well.


Hope this helps. 

[sargue]

Thanks for the tip.

I isolated things, just as you suggested, and it would seem my computer or monitor is the culpret.

Next question, are there any other noise filters that are more generally available?  I don't mind the Smarthome stuff, but I'm in Canada and it takes a while for things to ship, clear customs etc..

Anyone have any suggestions?

[Brian H]

If you have an Automation Dealer in Canada that carries the X10Pro Line. The XPPF is a 5 Amp X10 Powerline Filter. It look like a lamp module with no dials and an outlet on the bottom.
Unlike the Smarthome ones; it does not have a unfiltered pass through outlet on its face.

[Puck]

sargue: Welcome to the forum and here is a Canadian dealer that I've had good experience with.

aartech - X10 Integrity Products

But I do find (even with currency conversion) that Automated Outlet:: Noise Filters has the best prices for filters (and most other things) and my orders arrive in about 1 week and no customs delays.

Also, X10 themselves ship out of Toronto for Canadian orders (at least according to all my invoices), so no customs stop... but yeah they still charge us shipping as if it were coming from the US. 

[Duck69]

sargue: Welcome. 
  Aside from the noise problem; I would like to point out that the TM751 is not polite.
It does not wait to send it's signal causing collisions.
If you need to use more than one transceiver, then, I would suggest using the RR501.
The RR501 is polite and will wait avoiding collisions.
It's funny that the RR501 is the older model and yet it's much better than the TM571.
At any rate; Like Puck said https://www.automatedoutlet.com/home.php is the place to shop.
Prices and shipping is very good.

Smarthome will kill you with their shipping prices. BEWARE !

[sargue]

Thanks for the tips Duck and Puck! 

I've read a fair bit about the TM751 not being a polite device.  However, none of my symptoms seem to indicate problems in that area.... just with noise.

Ultimately, I'll likely end up with one TM751 and a CM15a, for the main house code, and likely use the other TM751 for another house code in the basement.

Anyhow, thanks again for the tips!

[TakeTheActive]

I have a strange automation problem...

No, you don't.

...Based on the house wiring, the lamp module and WS12a should be on the same circuit.

For reference, my TV room includes an extensive TV, Stereo System and computer.  Not sure if there might be interference from one of these devices...

• MAP / MEASURE / CORRECT - be sure to read JeffVolp's two excellent articles
  
  
• How to Map your Electrical Circuits  (courtesy of Puck)
  

...possilby a noise filter would help?

[VOLUNTEERS] *Comprehensive* Filter, Passive Coupler & Signal Analyzer LINK List  (Read 717 times)

Have fun!

[Duck69]

I've got to say that Puck's "How to Map your Electrical Circuits is excellent" 

I did mine differently.
For those of you who don't want to turn everything off because things such as the heater, AC, refrigerator etc,, etc. won’t run while you have the breakers off until you get to that particular one. Here is how.

Leave everything on.
1) Get someone to help you. You & your friend are referred to as #1 & #2
2) Use a 2 way radio (walkie talkie), less than $20. Better yet borrow it from the kids or neighbours.
3) Have a floor plan for every room with you and something to write with. Or draw it as you go.
4) Circuit tester.
4) Start at the farthest room of the house and work back to the panel.

With the WT, pencil floor plan and tester in hand.
#1 turns on everything in the room tells #2 to begin.
#2 begins turning off breakers.
When something goes off #1 tells #2 “Mark” “Stop” whatever.
#2 tells #1 which breaker it is & #1 marks his FP.
#1 then checks all outlets & switches. If #1 finds a live outlet/switch. #1 notifies #2 to begin again. Continue until all outlets & switches in that room has been identified.
Now move on to the next room and so forth.
When #1 is finally back to the panel. #2 closes it while #1 locks the house & turns on the security.
They then head down to the local Pub to congratulate each other on a fine job. 

BTW Something that is too often overlooked are the switches & outlets themselves.
When you start this project & turn everything on in the room. First check all the switches & outlets before tripping any breakers.
If you don't a faulty switch or outlet will ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,*%#()&&%. Well you know.

[Puck]

They then head down to the local Pub to congratulate each other on a fine job. 

I knew there was an important step I forgot to mention in my guide.... Thanks Duck69!!! 

[wtaylor35]

Greetings, all!  Looks like a lot of good info out there!
However, I cannot find any info regarding which size of noise filter I should be using for a typical PC power supply.
In my particular case, the PC has a 300 watt power supply within but I think that figure only relates to the total
capacity, not the amount of power drawn from the AC power source.  Can I get away with using a 5 Amp filter or would I have
to use something bigger?

Bill

[Puck]

wtaylor35: Welcome to the forum.

As long as your total PC power (including monitor, printer, etc.) is less than 600 watts, the 5 Amp filter will be fine. I use the 5 Amp filters on 2 of my PC's.

[wtaylor35]

Thanks, Puck and Duck69:

I will try a 5 Amp and see what happens.  It's just that I was a little confused as someone had previously told me that these switching power supplies often draw more current when they get older. And to make matters even more confusing, the specs which are listed on the side of the replacement power supply which I just purchased state: AC-I/P 115/230V 10/5A 60/50 HZ.
 

[Puck]

wtaylor35: You original power supply was rated for 300 Watts maximum, and it is very unlikely your PC was running at that maximum. So regardless of the rating of the new power supply, the loading from the PC will still be the same and therefore the total power required will not change too much. If you're upgrading your PC power supply to accommodate some new plug-ins, then you may have to recalculate your total power.