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[jackb]

On this WS467 problem, I had that "turn on, <BR>but not off" problem also!  I had read of <BR>these problem right after i had purchased 6 <BR>WS467s, in fact I was dreading putting them <BR>in!  But I had no problem with 4 of them, <BR>but sure enough, the last two were together <BR>on a double plate, one was for a ceiling <BR>light and other, an outside porch light. <BR>Guess my lucky day as the first thing I <BR>tried was move my RF TM751(I had it in a <BR>plug about 4" from those switches).  i put <BR>it in a plug with no X10 accessories.  Bingo- <BR>--  works on and off and dimmer winked at <BR>me. Hope this helps.  Brian H helped with my <BR>decision to do that!  I use both the CR12A <BR>and the Palm Pad as my controllers. I also <BR>have a mini-timer which works great too.

WS467 [1 of 3]

Re: WS467 [3 of 3] Energy Saver bulb flickers when off


[TTA Edit: Experiment to determine whether or not SPLITTING 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently

INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) into parts will allow current

ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Replies) section of the

Statistics Center (aka More Stats) Page.

NOTE: I *WILL* address the <BR> problem...]

[Brian H]

Oh yes. Any module that can send a line
signal like a controller; tranceiver or a
two way module can absorbe X10 signals; if
it is not the actively transmitting device.
The TM751 is also not polite. If it and
another device are transmitting it will
scramble the signals on the power line.

[garrett van cleef]

Gas fireplace incert companies sell a remote
control for many units. I would not want to
control anything that has to do with an open
flame. Most fireplace units have to have the
doors open when in use. If there is a power
surge it can trigger an unit on. Try it with
a lamp unit,turn the switch at the limp on
and off a few times.  This should cause the
lamp to turn on. Use a fireplace remote,
that way you are for sure at home when in
use.

[jim johnson]

I'm back but my x10 isn't. Glad to see the
postings. I am located in Woodbridge, Va and
I am with Virginia Dominion Electric. My
email to them was forwarded to the tech
folks, but they have not been in touch. I
too have been out with portable radios
(currently limited to searching for
harmonics in the LW & broadcast bands)
looking for a source however, there is SO
MUCH noise it is hard to pinpoint but the
highest noise levels appear to be around the
telephone junction boxes (our utilities are
underground) and the cable TV juction boxes.
I don't know if BBOPL may be playing a role
in this problem. The city of Manassas (15-20
miles away) went live with city-wide BBOPL
around 1 Oct (they were in a test mode for
some time before that and I did not have a
problem). Thanks to all for the input. Hope
we find a cure.

[dick]

Please keep us posted, as this could be
very important to many of us.

[rich]

This worked for me:
* Unplug CM15A from computer.
* Unplug CM15A from power.
* Remove the batteries.
* Plug CM15A back into computer
* Plug CM15A back into power.

This time it was recognized by Windows and by
AHP, at which point I put the batteries back.
My guess is that something in the embedded
computer crashed/hung and a hard reboot (i.e.
eliminate all power) was needed to clear it.

[alex]

Bill mentioned a module that closes dry
contacts when turned on. it's called the
Universal Module.

[alex]

i'm having the same problem except that
it's only with ONE light in my sister's
bedroom. my parents aren't too happy with
me for putting one there although my sister
enjoys it very much, but it keeps waking
her up in the night. it doesn't seem like
it would be that magnetic thing because
only hers does it and none of the others
do. any other ideas? maybe a defective wall
switch?

[roger1818]

Alex:  I wouldn't rule out a "glitch"
causing the problem.  If her wall switch is
on the same circuit (or possibly the same
phase) as what ever is causing the glitch
and the others aren't, the glitch might not
be strong enough to cause the light to turn
on.

It also might be a defective switch, or a
phantom on command.  Why don't you first
try changing the address for her switch?
If that doesn't solve the problem, then try
swapping her switch with one that works
properly and see if the problem stays in
her room, or moves to the new room.

[alex]

Roger,

that very well could be. if i'm correct, my
sister's light is on the same circuit
braker as some fluorescent lights we have.
i'll try grounding that pin on the chip and
see if that fixes it.

[alex]

seems like an awful lot for an IC. why that
much? i've got loads of X10 modules around
the house. how much would that raise a
power bill?

[alex]

strange that you wouldn't get that good
reception. i get perfectly fine reception
in the street (about 40 - 60 feet away from
AHP computer interface) and i've almost
never had to push the button more than once.

[Brian H]

Besides the power supply that is always
drawing power. Both of the modules I tested
have local control sensing. Physically there
is low level current flowing all the time
through the load [lamp appliance etc.] that
senses when you turn the local power switch
on and off to turn on the module without an
X10 signal. Wall switches [two wire ones
anyway] have to steal power through the load
all the time to run.

[roger1818]

If you feel comfortable doing that, it would probably be a good idea.  Just a word of warning though, wall switches are a pain to re-assemble.  You can find some hints for doing this at: http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/modifying_wall_switch.htm

[Brian H]

Most X10 Modules use a power line derived
power supply. Part of it is a Zener Diode.
It keeps the current about the same all the
time keeping the supply about the same. If
the iC is the only thing doing much the
diode draws more current. If the triac in
the dimmer or triger for the appliance
modules relay draw more current the diode
draws less. Only thing that could mess up my
measurements is X10 uses a capacitor as a
line dropping device and could make my AC
measurements off.