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[azzar0]

Are any of the lamps; with CFLs; on an appliance module? Some will turn back on from the CFLs electronics tickling the Local Control Circuit in an appliance module. I had to modify all of mine to disable the Local Controls so CFLs did not turn back on. If this is part of your setup. Let us know and we can point you to mods, that eliminate it.

Hi Brian H,

No, I don't have any CFLs in the house, and thus no appliance modules connected to any CFL lamps... I almost wish I did now, to find a cause

Thanks,
Azzar0.

[dave w]

azzar0

I think Brian and I are driving down the same road of "Local Control" causing your problem. But local control problems ar enot limited to CFL's or appliance modules. Standard flourescent lights with any kind of starter circuit can trigger an appliance module or lamp module to turn back on after the module and light has been turned off. Even later versions of the "Super Socket" and X10 wall switch(s) retrigger (although for safety, I don't think they should) A "Socket Rocket will not.

Anywho, it sounds like you are familiar with local control so I will go back to sleep.

[Boiler]

azzar0,

I'm a bit confused with your configuration -

I don't have any CFLs in the house, but I am pretty sure that some of my neighbors do.

and

All my lights are fluorescent (with the exception of a floor lamp that uses a halogen light bulb, which IS dimmable, however).

• What type of fluorescents are you using?
• What type of switches/lamp modules are controlling the fluorescents?
• Is the Halogen bulb a 120V unit or a low voltage bulb with a transformer?
• Are you using a dimmable lamp module (model) with the halogen floor lamp?
• Are you using macro dim commands or absolute dim commands with the halogen lamp?

Sorry for all the questions, but I really am trying to help.

In my experience line noise (noise present on the powerline or generated from outside your house):

• 1) Can definitely prevent X10 commands from being received by your intended switches (from your CM15a or other transceivers)
• 2) Does not turn lights on and off - noise on the powerline can prevent the reception of a valid X10 command but I can't conceive of a way that it could "construct" a valid X10 command to turn a device on or off.  The X10 protocol requires a start sequence followed by a valid house code and a unit code (or function code).  A single command sequence covers 11 powerline cycles.  After a three powerline cycle gap, the entire sequence is repeated.  It is very difficult (not impossible) for a noise source to mimic this protocol.
• 3) A valid X10 command generated from your neighbors (not really noise) could conceivably be conducted through the transformer and activate X10 devices in your house.  I would think this would be rare.  Look for X10 transmissions that are not your own in the "other computers" tab.  Note that these could be RF or powerline.
  

I really have very little experience with lamp and appliance modules (most of my installations are hardwired switches).  I'll yield to Dave_W and and Brian_H on the issues of local control being fooled by a load type (fluorescent or CFL). 

There was a time when certain lights (4 different unit codes) would turn themself off and stay off. They are also the main lights, so when they turned off everything was dark! Like I said, I haven't seen that happen since I took the repeater out.

I do have experience with macro's being receiving multiple triggers and producing the on-off-on activity that you describe.  I have two CM15a interfaces - one from '06 and one from '04.  The '06 model is far more robust - particularly when dealing with RF input.  I can see specific differences in the activity monitor between these two units.  The difference, as far as I can determine, is firmware not hardware.  Comparing the two modules, there are very few hardware changes but the firmware was rolled from revision "E" to revision "M" inside two years.  I'd be very interested in what date code unit you have.

Check your activity monitor - is the CM15a getting "confused" by the RF and re-triggering your macros?

In any event, I am leaning more and more towards the PZZ01 idea. What do you think? Is this likely to eliminate the possibility of the issue to come back? Is there anything else I can do instead of or in addition to?

From what I have read, the PZZ01 is a good device (Leviton makes a similar model).  But it is not inexpensive and it should be installed by an electrician.  Before making the leap try the following:

• Watch your activity monitor to determine whether macro's, transceived RF, or a power line transmission are turning your lights on and off.
• Determine if the macros are responding to RF or power line inputs.  If RF, try disabling the input to see if the "unexplained activity" goes away.
• Try moving house codes to eliminate the possibility of conducted signals from your neighbors (find a "Free" area in the other computers tab). 
• Disable any transceived RF inputs you are not using in the control panel

If I had to bet (and I'm not a betting man) I'd wager that you have macros being re-triggered by multiple RF inputs.  Try eliminating the RF first and see if things "calm down".  If they do not, then the X10 commands may indeed be external (in which case a blocking filter may be in order). 

None of the above addresses the interference with your satellite reception.   If the noise if on the power line I'm surprised that any of your system is functioning (A/V units typically have good filtering).  If the noise is broadband or RF I can't really guide you to a source (If it affects both X10 and your satellite feed we're talking a wide range of frequencies). 

In general your satellite reception sounds like a "noise problem" whereas you lighting on/off scenario sounds like improper commands (or local control).  A ELK ESM1 could help tracking down the noise (only in the X10 frequency band) and would be less expensive than the PZZ01 + installation.   

Let us know what you find -
The Boiler
 

[azzar0]

Hi Boiler,

• What type of fluorescents are you using?

I am using regular light bulbs, mostly Phillips bulbs ("natural light"??)

• What type of switches/lamp modules are controlling the fluorescents?

I have wall switches (WS467 and WS4777 for 3 ways), lamp modules (LM465) and appliance modules (AM486)

• Is the Halogen bulb a 120V unit or a low voltage bulb with a transformer?

This lamp is a 120V floor lamp, controlled by a wall switch (the outlet is controlled by the wall switch). I unplugged it a few times to see if it solves the problem but it didn't.

• Are you using a dimmable lamp module (model) with the halogen floor lamp?

Again, the lamp is controlled by the wall switch, which is dimmable (WS467)

• Are you using macro dim commands or absolute dim commands with the halogen lamp?

I am actually using no macros at all for this lamp. I rarely use RF to control the lamp also. It is mostly locally controlled. Lately I've been playing with BVC and turning it on and off that way, but the majority of the time it is locally controlled (I am now convinced that my wife is completely unable to use any kind of remotes, with the exception of the Logitech Harmony 880 which she loves).

Sorry for all the questions, but I really am trying to help.

No need to apologize - I appreciate your feedback and recommendations.

I do have experience with macro's being receiving multiple triggers and producing the on-off-on activity that you describe.  I have two CM15a interfaces - one from '06 and one from '04.  The '06 model is far more robust - particularly when dealing with RF input.  I can see specific differences in the activity monitor between these two units.  The difference, as far as I can determine, is firmware not hardware.  Comparing the two modules, there are very few hardware changes but the firmware was rolled from revision "E" to revision "M" inside two years.  I'd be very interested in what date code unit you have.

I know my unit is one of the first ones out there. Maybe it is time to invest in a new CM15A... How can I check the firmware revision? Is it written on the back of the box? It's been a while since I looked at the thing closely and I am at work now.

Check your activity monitor - is the CM15a getting "confused" by the RF and re-triggering your macros?

I thought that might be the case, but no - in fact I remember the activity monitor didn't show ANYTHING, as if it didn't even know that the lights turned off (and on rare occasions back on). According to the activity monitor I was crazy and nothing happened. Ask my family on the other hand, and they'll tell you otherwise (well... they'll probably agree that I'm crazy, but they also know the phenomenon I am talking about very well)

try the following:

• Watch your activity monitor to determine whether macro's, transceived RF, or a power line transmission are turning your lights on and off.
• Determine if the macros are responding to RF or power line inputs.  If RF, try disabling the input to see if the "unexplained activity" goes away.
• Try moving house codes to eliminate the possibility of conducted signals from your neighbors (find a "Free" area in the other computers tab). 
• Disable any transceived RF inputs you are not using in the control panel

I've been watching the Activity monitor, but it doesn't show the activity I am describing. I switched house codes, my neighbor does have X10 but I set it up for him and he's on house code "O". I am only transceiving the house codes I am using in CM15A, I don't have them all checked.

If I had to bet (and I'm not a betting man) I'd wager that you have macros being re-triggered by multiple RF inputs.  Try eliminating the RF first and see if things "calm down".  If they do not, then the X10 commands may indeed be external (in which case a blocking filter may be in order). 

That sounds like what is happening, doesn't it? However, as I mentioned earlier, activity monitor contradicts that assessment - there is NO activity indicating RF input to cause this type of behavior.

Is there a way to upgrade the firmware of the CM15A? It would be kind of silly to buy a new box just for the upgraded firmware...
Also, is there a way to check a module for being problematic? Is it possible that one of the modules (be it a wall switch, a lamp module, or an appliance module) has gone bad and it's causing the system to act weird? How do I determine which one of the module is the cause?

Thanks again for all your help,
Azzar0

[Boiler]

azzar0,

You're quickly blowing me out of the water here (kidding).

Allow me to summarize (for my own benefit).

• You have no fluorescents (cfl or other).
• Your 120V halogen floor lamp is controlled through an outlet by a WS467.
• The remainder of your lights are incandescent controlled by dimming switches, lamp modules, and appliance modules.
• You are not running macros on the CM15a (timers??)
• You are rarely using RF remotes.
• You are using RF motion sensors, and at times the activity can be high.

Let me know if I've erred in the above...

Let's start with the Halogen lamp.  The WS467 is a two wire device that is rated for a minimum of 40W incandescent load.  The minimum rating is due to the fact the the switch needs to complete the circuit (through the load) to respond to X10 commands.  It is possible that the resistance of your Halogen bulb is higher than a 40 watt equivalent incandescent and the switch is having problems receiving commands.

Aside from the Halogen lamp loading, it is generally not advisable to control an outlet with a dimmable X10 switch.  You don't have control over what gets connected to the outlet (unless your household operates differently than mine).  I another family member plugs in a vacuum cleaner or boom box bad things can happen. 

Do you have any other outlets controlled by dimmable switches?  Could other family members be plugging in devices?

In regard to the CM15a date and firmware codes - check out the following thread.  There should be a date code on the back of the CM15a.  The Firmware version is located inside on the micro-controller.

http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12826.0

With my "old" (2004) CM15a I can overload the RF input and cause all types of problems.  This happens regardless of whether the RF input is being transceived and often requires a "battery out reset" to correct.  My new (2006) CM15a is far more robust.  I have not been able to upset if with RF (to date - I'm still trying things).  What confuses me is that you're not seeing anything in activity monitor. 

It doesn't sound like the CM15a is doing much??  Could you afford to unplug it for a few days to see if your problems continue?  If they do continue, it would point to an outside source.

(I am now convinced that my wife is completely unable to use any kind of remotes, with the exception of the Logitech Harmony 880 which she loves).

Thanks for the information - my wife is a tad bit Techno-phobic.  Ladies I'm not dumping here, my father has similar difficulties (and he is/was an engineer).

• She uses the intercom to ask my 9 year old to operate the A/V system
• If one of the kids moves an Icon on her PC desktop, the computer is "broken"
• Uses the children to program her cell phone
• Really enjoys life when the X10 system does not operate as planned (at my expense)
• If she reads this, I'm toast.

I'll have to check out the Harmony - it could eliminate a lot of stress in the family.

The Boiler

[azzar0]

Allow me to summarize (for my own benefit).

• You have no fluorescents (cfl or other).

correct, no fluorescents whatsoever.

[li]Your 120V halogen floor lamp is controlled through an outlet by a WS467.[/li]

correct

[li]The remainder of your lights are incandescent controlled by dimming switches, lamp modules, and appliance modules.[/li]

again correct

[li]You are not running macros on the CM15a (timers??)[/li]

INCORRECT. I am running LOTS of macros and timers on the CM15A. What I meant is that no macros or RF control the one halogen lamp we were talking about. The rest of the house is on a schedule to do things... I have 'movie' macros, 'welcome home' macros, 'vacation' macros, etc, and a bunch a timers that either turn individual lights on / off or trigger macros.
I use remote controls too, when necessary, and lately I've been replacing remotes with BVC (voice command control)

[li]You are rarely using RF remotes.[/li]

Again, incorrect. I rarely use remotes to control the halogen lamp, which is simply because it is mostly my wife's lamp, she uses it when she applies make up, etc. Because she is a devoted anti-remote advocate (based on her action, not her conviction) she prefers to control that lamp (or any other for that matter) manually instead of using the remotes. Too bad my Harmony doesn't have X10 built-in, I may have convinced her to use it to control some of the lights then...
Because I have the system setup so that lights turn on and off automatically, I have the tendency to use the remotes less myself. But I do use them if I need to turn something on. I guess what I am trying to say is that remotes get used, but only by me I am confident that nobody else in the house is pushing remote buttons on / off to make the system behave the way it is.

[li]You are using RF motion sensors, and at times the activity can be high.[/li]

Correct

Let's start with the Halogen lamp.  The WS467 is a two wire device that is rated for a minimum of 40W incandescent load.  The minimum rating is due to the fact the the switch needs to complete the circuit (through the load) to respond to X10 commands.  It is possible that the resistance of your Halogen bulb is higher than a 40 watt equivalent incandescent and the switch is having problems receiving commands.

Actually the lamp doesn't act weird in any way - it turns on and off everytime I command it to do so, I can dim / brighten without any problems. I really don't think this lamp is an issue; I also unplugged it for a few days, and I didn't notice any changes in the system.

Aside from the Halogen lamp loading, it is generally not advisable to control an outlet with a dimmable X10 switch.  You don't have control over what gets connected to the outlet (unless your household operates differently than mine).  I another family member plugs in a vacuum cleaner or boom box bad things can happen. 

Agreed... But I will have to reffer again to my lovely wife She NEEDS a visible, tangible control. Remote controls are abstract notions to her - they're used to control space ships and aliens, not lights

Do you have any other outlets controlled by dimmable switches?  Could other family members be plugging in devices?

I have one other outlet controlled that way. I have an extension cord plugged in and 2 lamps (regular incandescent light bulbs) plugged in the cord. The bottom of the outlet, which is the only part controlled by X10, is taped. Nobody can unplug the extension cord. Even my wife knows not to mess with that outlet

With my "old" (2004) CM15a I can overload the RF input and cause all types of problems.  This happens regardless of whether the RF input is being transceived and often requires a "battery out reset" to correct.  My new (2006) CM15a is far more robust.  I have not been able to upset if with RF (to date - I'm still trying things).  What confuses me is that you're not seeing anything in activity monitor. 

wow. I think you just convinced me to get a new one... How is the RF range on the newer model compared to the old one? I had to make a small mod to get better reception on my CM15A.

It doesn't sound like the CM15a is doing much??  Could you afford to unplug it for a few days to see if your problems continue?  If they do continue, it would point to an outside source.

If I do that then my entire automation system will be down. The wife is already used to not touching light switches in the bathrooms and closets (before I automated them she only knew how to turn them ON, much like the kids - hence X10). If I take the system offline she'll think it's broken and I'll have lights on everywhere. Not to mention I won't be able to talk to 'James' (BVC), which is not a big deal in itself but he's the only one in the household that does what I ask him to Well, for the most part - I do have to repeat myself a couple of times and talk like I am trying to ask for directions in Pakistan (i.e. loud and the lips are puckered and the face is all tensed up, etc).

[li]She uses the intercom to ask my 9 year old to operate the A/V system[/li]

check

[li]If one of the kids moves an Icon on her PC desktop, the computer is "broken"[/li]

check

[li]Uses the children to program her cell phone[/li]

check check

[li]Really enjoys life when the X10 system does not operate as planned (at my expense)[/li]

check

[li]If she reads this, I'm toast.[/li]

Are you sure we're NOT talking about the same woman here???

I'll have to check out the Harmony - it could eliminate a lot of stress in the family.

It will! Even my oldest daughter, who knows how to use the 5 - 9 remotes to control the AV system, prefers the Harmony! It does make life much easier. I've been using it for so long that whenever I have to do something that the remote doesn't (yet) know how to do seamlessly I am having difficulties trying to figure out which emote goes where and how to use it!

BUT I can't wait until BVC introduces IR functions and support for multiple voice profiles. Then I can train everyone in the family and a simple voice command will switch the TV on, put it on the "Satellite" input, turn the satellite receiver on, turn the audio receiver on and put IT on the satellite input, AND dim the lights if I wanted to   OR I can say "Turn DVD on" and the system switches the TV to the DVD input, turn the DVD on, switch the audio receiver to the DVD input, open the DVD tray, and finally announce "Please insert DVD to start the movie. Enjoy!" Oh, and make sure annoying lights are turned off and only keep a couple on, but dimmed to an appropriate level

OK, I know I am daydreaming, but Bill, if you are reading this, and I KNOW YOU ARE ( ) let us know how is everything going and when we should expect a beta release of the new IR-enabled BVC

[steven r]

...The wife is already used to not touching light switches in the bathrooms and closets (before I automated them she only knew how to turn them ON, much like the kids - hence X10)....

I can identify with that. Good luck! You're in the right place for advice.

[Boiler]

wow. I think you just convinced me to get a new one... How is the RF range on the newer model compared to the old one? I had to make a small mod to get better reception on my CM15A.

Actually, the RF range on both of my CM15a's is "OK".  I have the unit (only install one at a time) in the basement on a dedicated outlet 6" from the breaker box.  Either unit will reliably cover the basement, first floor, garage,  and outside sensors.  I do have some "dead zones" on the second floor - I use a RF repeater there for reliability.

If you are serious about a new unit - X10 is running another of their $49.99 sales with all of the add-on software (I'm not trying to be a salesman here).

I am still very interested in the date code/firmware version of your old CM15a (this is a pet project of mine).

The wife is already used to not touching light switches in the bathrooms and closets (before I automated them she only knew how to turn them ON, much like the kids - hence X10)

Sounds like we got into X10 for the same reasons.  Prior to using X10 I'd come on a hot summer day to find the AC running and EVERY LIGHT IN THE HOUSE ON.   This was in my previous house prior to the creation of CFL's.  When I walked through the first floor I could feel the heat of the 75 watt cans (12) radiating through from the basement and THE CAT AND I WERE THE ONLY MAMMALS IN THE HOUSE!

Recently I've begun using 2-way switches in the hall closets and pantry.  When the lights are activated it fires a CM15a macro that turns the lamp off after X time. 

Are you sure we're NOT talking about the same woman here???

Possibly from the same gene pool.  My wife does have a younger sister - Are you my bother-in-law??

It will! Even my oldest daughter, who knows how to use the 5 - 9 remotes to control the AV system, prefers the Harmony! It does make life much easier. I've been using it for so long that whenever I have to do something that the remote doesn't (yet) know how to do seamlessly I am having difficulties trying to figure out which emote goes where and how to use it!

Which model Harmony are you using?  I recently burned the RF section out of two UR74a learning remotes (whole different story) and find myself in the market.  A wife approved remote would keep my 9 year old from running the stairs to operate the A/V systems.

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

OK, I know I am daydreaming, but Bill, if you are reading this, and I KNOW YOU ARE ( ) let us know how is everything going and when we should expect a beta release of the new IR-enabled BVC

Of course I am (reading this)!   

All I can tell you at present is, now that BVC appears to be stable in it's new language, I have finally begun transplanting code a bit at a time (okay, technically a few lines at a time ) from my IR test program into BVC.  It is slow going and it's already giving me fits, but it has begun!   

[TakeTheActive]

...Recently I've begun using 2-way switches in the hall closets and pantry.  When the lights are activated it fires a CM15a macro that turns the lamp off after X time.

Obviously, you haven't read my FAQ -

[TTA TIP] 1½-Way Status Reporting [Positive LOAD Feedback Loop!]  (Read 4200 times)

...I am still very interested in the date code/firmware version of your old CM15a (this is a pet project of mine).[/b]

How serious?  Enough to MAINTAIN a 'Dedicated Database' (if someone were to set it up for you)?

Unreleated-to-thread OPINION: These forums could use *MORE* DO'ers / Volunteers and *LESS* Whiners / Complainers...

[Boiler]

Obviously, you haven't read my FAQ

au contraire!  I have read your FAQ (I'm one of the 4200) and yes I think the use of the motion sensor dusk/dawn output as a lamp feedback is ingenious.  I particularly like the dim feature to warn the occupants that "time is expiring".  I've disabled most of the light sensors on my motion detectors to free up the address (and cut down on the RF).  I'm rethinking this in a couple of locations where it would be nice to have a ON/OFF confirmation.

My 2-way switches are Insteon that are operating in X10 mode (I'm not familiar with the X10 2-Ways other than the PR511).  These switches broadcast their on/off status when activated (no need to poll - doesn't work with Smarthome products).  I chose this method so that I wouldn't have to add a motion detector in a small closet (I have to admit, I never thought about the dusk/dawn output).

How serious?  Enough to MAINTAIN a 'Dedicated Database' (if someone were to set it up for you)?

Absolutely.  Thank you "someone" for offering.

[TakeTheActive]

azzar0,

*PLEASE* confusing the "Old Geezers"!

We only have a limited number available and if you put them into an "Endless Loop", they'll OVERHEAT and BURN OUT on us!

• 1.)

  
  ...I don't have any CFLs in the house, but I am pretty sure that some of my neighbors do...

  
  
• 2.)

  
  ...Are the lights that come back ON after you turn them OFF, fluorescent?

  
  
• 3.)

  
  ...All my lights are fluorescent (with the exception of a floor lamp that uses a halogen light bulb, which IS dimmable, however)...

  
  
• 4.)

  Are any of the lamps; with CFLs; on an appliance module?

  Please see #1.
  
  
• 5.)

  
  I'm a bit confused with your configuration -
  
  

  
  ...All my lights are fluorescent (with the exception of a floor lamp that uses a halogen light bulb, which IS dimmable, however)...

  
  - What type of fluorescents are you using?

  
  
• 6.)

  Hi Boiler,
  
  

  
  - What type of fluorescents are you using?

  
  I am using regular light bulbs, mostly Phillips bulbs ("natural light"??)

  
  
• 7.)

  
  azzar0,
  
  You're quickly blowing me out of the water here (kidding).
  
  Allow me to summarize (for my own benefit).
  
  - You have no fluorescents (cfl or other).

  
  
• 8.)

  
  Allow me to summarize (for my own benefit).
  
  - You have no fluorescents (cfl or other).

  
  correct, no fluorescents whatsoever.

  
  Please see #3.
  

(In the voice of the Verizon television commercial Cellphone Geek): Can everyone follow this thread now? 

P.S. to steven r:

Yep, it took a LONG time, especially since I'm on my P266 laptop. Not thinking ahead , once I reached the point of having opened several posts, the SWAP FILE came into play (96MB RAM, Win98SE) and the DISK TRASHING took forever - but, at that point I was already committed to finishing it (yeah, I know -> I SHUD BE *COMMITTED*! ).

Came out purdy though, huh?

P.S. to Boiler:

After all that, I think I'm going to start calling you "Slow Simmer" - cause you DEFINITELY ain't no "Boiler "! 

P.P.S. to Everyone:

Using the FORUM-CREATED QUOTE in your replies actually creates a LINK (with the author's ID and a Time/Date Stamp) to the original post. Using just the parameter "QUOTE" is like using the parameter "CODE" - all it does is create a BOX for the text.

No Author; No Time/Date Stamp; No LINK...

[azzar0]

TTA,

I apologize - I can see why the thread is confusing.
What I meant to say in your quoted #5 post is that I don't have fluorescent lights (such as neons, CFLs, etc). I only have incandescent lights (with filaments) and one halogen lamp, also with filament.
Sorry about the confusion - I was too quick to type.

[Boiler]

Azzar0,

I don't believe the TTA is suggesting that you abandon this thread.  This is your thread and it's in all of our interest to see this to it's logical conclusion.

 

I am NOT whining, nor am I complaining. I am SIMPLY TRYING TO FIND ANSWERS to real problems that I am experiencing.

No you are not - and we appreciate that.  What we are trying to get to is the "facts" of the situation.  Unfortunately, at one point you stated that you only had fluorescents in your house.  I'm sure this was a simple mistake, but it sent the CM's (and myself) down the wrong path.  That's OK, it happens all the time.  What I would ask is that, when this happens, go back and edit the incorrect information in the post.  This saves a lot of time on the part of the people trying to help and makes the thread as a whole far more usable to others.

TTA has the thankless job of going through the threads and cleaning them up so they can be useful to other forum members (he's cleaned up a quite a few of my posts).  I may be an old geezer, but I just learned how to insert a "linked" quote (thanks TTA - remember I'm old and slow).  I think his comments should be taken as a gentle chiding rather than a suggestion to terminate the thread.

Please continue to update us on your progress.  You have some interesting things going on and I am learning as well.

I'll have to get back to you on the Insteon switches and controllers.  I was in the process of packing the car when I saw your post.  I have someone glaring at me at the moment.  It'll be a few days.

The Boiler

Almost forgot - I ordered one of the X10 package deals as well.  I didn't have the security package and I'm curious if the newer CM15a's have firmware revisions to accommodate it.

[azzar0]

Unfortunately, at one point you stated that you only had fluorescents in your house.  I'm sure this was a simple mistake, but it sent the CM's (and myself) down the wrong path.  That's OK, it happens all the time.  What I would ask is that, when this happens, go back and edit the incorrect information in the post.  This saves a lot of time on the part of the people trying to help and makes the thread as a whole far more usable to others.

You're right - it was an overlooked mistake. I went back and fixed that erroneous post. I forget I can do that...

Almost forgot - I ordered one of the X10 package deals as well.  I didn't have the security package and I'm curious if the newer CM15a's have firmware revisions to accommodate it.

Be careful with that, some say that OnAlert causes issues with your conditional macros. I am not sure if OnAlert is the culprit, but if you want to send emails you have to use the work-around to get it working( see this post: http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=11233.0)