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[steven r]

I'm getting the Fixture Module XPFM for my over head fan.
It looks like the only hard part of installing it will be figuring out where to put it inline. I haven't received it yet to see how much space it will need. Can I squeeze it in wall switch box behind other switches? Will I need to mount it in the attic? Any building codes I need to be aware of such as does it need to be installed in a box.
Twisting the wires on it won't be hard but I want to make sure I follow proper building codes. Also If it needs to go in the attic, I may need to hire someone.
Thanks.

[KDR]

steven r take a look here for details on it. Gives size as well.

http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpfm.pdf

It just might fit behind a switch in a deep box.

^{----------------KDR}

[Brian H]

steven r;
Well it is slightly smaller than a lamp module if you don't count the AC prongs on the back of a lamp module.
Looking at the front 2 7/8" high; 2" wide and 1 1/4" thick.
Connections are exiting the bottom Line and Load are #12 wire the Neutral is #18 as it only powers the modules electronics.
Yes the Neutral will be needed if you put it inside a deep switch box. Inside the fixture would have a neutral.
I don't have code data so I can't say if it is a probelm.

[steven r]

I made a mock XPFM by cutting a PalmPad box in half. Now I can visualize it. There's not enough room in my wall switch box. In fact I created a spark by not pushing all the ground wires out of the way when I installed my Smarthome KeypadLink 8, model 12064W. It is a really sweet wired controller.

My fan is suspended several feet from a high ceiling. I'm wondering if I can wire and mount it on top of the motor. If so, am I violating any wiring codes?

I have known more than one person to go through a ceiling. Also, the last time I was on anything taller than a step latter I took the express way down 20+ feet to my driveway.  Needless to say I'm a bit "gun shy" of mounting the module when my feet aren't firmly on the floor.

[KDR]

Can you add a workbox in the attic next to the one for the fan? You can put a 4x4 box with a blank cover

^{----------------KDR}

[Boiler]

Is your fan currently hardwired, or are you using the Keypadlinc to control it through the XPFM?

If you're using the Keypadlinc, could you move it to a different location and use a relay switch to control the fan instead?  It could save a lot of very hot time in the attic.

In regard to the keypadlinc (they are neat devices), I have a number of the Insteon/X10 compatible Keypadlinc V2 controllers.  These have a known problem when using X10 All-on/All-Off commands:

If you program the secondary buttons (non-load controlling buttons) to different house codes (say button B to house code B and button C to house code C) all of the secondary buttons will respond to All-on/All-off commands on both house codes (B and C).  This includes buttons that have no X10 address assigned.  The Keypadlinc will not transmit X10 (only the button lamps are changing state) but I still find it to be a big annoyance (all of my keypadlinc indicators are off by my table lamp is still on).

I'd be very interested to know if your Keypadlinc (non-Insteon) responds in the same way.

[Oldtimer]

Can you add a workbox in the attic next to the one for the fan? You can put a 4x4 box with a blank cover

You need the 4x4 surface mount box with rounded corneers and an expanded cover plate for a switch, not the flat one, to allow plenty of room for the wire nuts and wires.  You'll have to cover the openings in the switch cover plate.  I used metal duct tape on both sides.  Later on I'll probably put a thin piece of aluminum over the holes and hold it in place with the metal duct tape so there's no chance of poking a tool through it.  You can see picture of what I did in this post about my attic fan. The box I used is labled "fan lock"

[steven r]

Can you add a workbox in the attic next to the one for the fan? You can put a 4x4 box with a blank cover

I'm thinking that will be the best approach. I figure a single gang box with a cover plate would work. Now I just need to decide if I want to do it myself.

Is your fan currently hardwired, or are you using the Keypadlinc to control it through the XPFM?...

I used the space where the old fan switch was for the Keypadlinc switch with plans to use one of the Keypadlinc pad buttons to control that fan after I get the XPFM installed.

[steven r]

...I'd be very interested to know if your Keypadlinc (non-Insteon) responds in the same way.

The keypadLinc, model 12064W, is extremely flexible.

• Each button can be programed individually without respect to the others.
• Each button can be programed to toggle or not with or without dimming and 2-way mode.
• In non toggle mode, a button can be programed for a specific function.
• It you have button programmed to toggle, it will change it's lighted state if it receives a command from elsewhere.

I have one button set to control the couch lamps on C7, another for the fan on H9, another to toggles a macro P5 to flash the house lights and a non toggling button on F16 for house defaults macro. I still have 4 more buttons to go. Suggestions? 

[Boiler]

I have one button set to control the couch lamps on C7, another for the fan on H9, another to toggles a macro P5 to flash the house lights and a non toggling button on F16 for house defaults macro. I still have 4 more buttons to go. Suggestions? 

Yep, I have a similar configuration on my Keypadlinc V2.  Here's the issue - using your configuration, if I send a C7 All-On command all of the secondary buttons will light (including those assigned to the H, P, and F house codes).  In fact, a All-On command for any of the house codes used (C, H, P, F) will cause all of the secondary buttons to light (even those that don't have an X10 address programmed).  Note that the Keypadlinc isn't sending anything in response to these All-On commands (no X10 activity).  The problem is internal to the device.

If you would, try sending All-on/All-Off commands to the C, H, P and F house codes and see how your unit responds.  Your Kepadlinc is a rather "mature" device whereas my KeypadLinc V2 is rather new.  It's entirely possible that this is a problem with the V2 (Insteon) devices only.

Thanks,
The Boiler

[steven r]

...If you would, try sending All-on/All-Off commands to the C, H, P and F house codes and see how your unit responds...

I'll need to play with it for a few days / weeks to get a feel for all the possible light responses but the initial test seems to be mostly logical. e.g.

• The button I programmed for my bedroom light (C4) to toggle with dim goes on and off respectively with the "C All Lights On" and "C All Units Off"
• Interestingly the button I programmed for the fan (H9) to toggle without dim doesn't go on with "H All Lights On" but does turn off with "H All Units Off"
• The non-toggle buttons I use to trigger specific macros don't flash when a signal is sent.

No unassigned button lights came on.
The 1st example is responding the way a light module would and the 2nd like an appliance module would. Both conditions are logical for my application. If you programed a button to toggle without dim for a light, you not like having the button not respond to an "All Lights On"

[Boiler]

Thanks Steven,

It sounds like your controller is operating properly.  It would appear that Smarthome added a new bug to the controller when they upgraded to the V2 (Insteon) configuration.

I appreciate the help,
The Boiler

[cksedg]

Most new fans have a place for their own remote control unit built into the mounting bracket.  It is almost the perfect size for an XPFM, right within the canopy of the fan.