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[steven r]

Ok I haven't found one that looks like a wall switch but what you're looking for is called momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON).

If you can find an acceptable momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON), you hack a key chain remote and mount it all in a single gang box. Still you might want to test the range first.

[Oldtimer]

Ok I haven't found one that looks like a wall switch but what you're looking for is called momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON).

If you can find an acceptable momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON), you hack a key chain remote and mount it all in a single gang box. Still you might want to test the range first.

How about a WS14A, a smart macro and a flag, to go with the key chain remote? A lot of WS14As and key chain remotes are available on EBay at the moment. You might have to push the button twice on occasion to get the result you want but it would be a simple cost effective solution.

The single gang box will have to be plastic of course.

[steven r]

...How about a WS14A, a smart macro and a flag, to go with the key chain remote?...

So the WS14A is just an electrical momentary switch?

...The single gang box will have to be plastic of course.

Fortunately most after wall install boxes, in fact all I've seen, are plastic.

Every once and awhile you would need to change batteries but that wouldn't be a real problem. In fact you could even tape a spare set inside the box if you want. For that matter as long as you're hacking the key chain remote, you could wire a larger battery pack.

[Boiler]

Steven and OldTimer,

Could a DS10a door/window security sensor be hacked to work with a standard mechanical switch?

It looks like the DS10a uses a standard reed switch contact closure.  This could be hacked off and wired across a mechanical switch.

I don't know how large the DS10 is (whether it could fit behind a mechanical switch in a deep box), nor do I know how it communicates.  If the unit constantly transmits RF when the switch is opened, this idea is a bust.

raccah,
In general, I personally don't like the idea of burying a RF transmitter in the wall.  The reason for this is that the success or failure of this approach will depend on your home construction.  This approach might work in my home.  It would be a total disaster in my Father's home due to the plaster/metal lathe construction (place reminds me of a Faraday cage).
Just my opinion, but I would opt for the wired approach.  A failed RF attempt would likely cause the WAF to plummet (which in turn would require endless HoneyDo's to restore).  I'm speaking as one who is unlikely to work off previous disapprovals in this life.

[Walt2]

To expand a bit on Boiler's reply, Leviton makes a single address transmitter that looks exactly like a standard Decora switch (HCC10-1TW).  It does not switch the load itself, but just needs access to power.  It transmits a signal to another another X10 compatible switch that actually switches the load.  You can get one for $35 plus shipping on eBay.

Sorry to take this thread onto a tangent, but Wow, thanks!   I had ever heard of these before.

While not possibly a solution for the OP, this is certainly a solution to a problem I have had for years.  In my bedrooms, the wall switch by the doors controls the outlet which is also just by the door.  That is of little help since that means any lamp plugged into that outset would be by the door too.  I could just as easily switch the lamp on/off by its own switch.

What I really want, is to be able to turn a lamp that is elsewhere in the room, on and off.

The wall switches have only two wires running to them; hot and hot return.   However, it would be a trivial re-wire to change that to hot and neutral; just what these Leviton single unit controllers require.   

With these Leviton controllers installed, I can use them to control any X10 module anywhere in the room.  Plus, since they look like familiar Decora style switches, others (visitors, guests, etc) would not have a problem using them.

Again, sorry for the tangent, and thanks for the info!

We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.   

[Boiler]

Walt2,

To continue on the tangent, (sorry to the "OP") Smarthome's entire Insteon line (Switchlinc and Icon) are X10 2-way compatible as well (they can be used as X10 transmitters). 

I've been slowly converting over the the Smathome line since they have multiple colors available (replaceable paddles and trim plates).  I used them create a virtual 9 way  switch installation (two traditional 4 way installations - is that a 9 way?) in my upstairs hallway/landing.

Yes they can come in extremely handy when connecting circuits that can't be physically wired together.  If you add Smart Macro's, the sky's the limit.

One down side - the 2 way receiver/transmitters do absorb more X10 than a traditional receiver.

[JeffVolp]

I've been slowly converting over the the Smathome line since they have multiple colors available (replaceable paddles and trim plates).

All the standard colors are also available for the Leviton line.  Worthington carries the complete selection.

http://worthdist.com/Leviton/hcswitches.htm

Jeff

[Boiler]

...All the standard colors are also available for the Leviton line.  Worthington carries the complete selection.

Jeff is exactly right, I probably should have mentioned that.  I began switching to to the Leviton line 5 years ago because of the color replacement kits.  My wife picked Almond for the new house and I was getting tired if disassembling the X10 switches and repainting them to match.

I have nothing against the Leviton line, they are excellent switches (AGC, true rocker action, 1 button program).  They are just more expensive than the Insteon switches which offer the same features with 2-way X10 (X10 transmitter) and Insteon.  As a result I've been slowly replacing my X10 switches with the Insteon.  I have had problem areas (multiple two way switches on a line) where I've had to add a booster.

All is not perfect in the Insteon word.  At this time I would not recommend an Insteon non-dimmable switch due to reported failures (I haven't experienced these).  The Insteon based controllers are also no where near as capable as the CM15a (which is why I'm running my Insteon switches in X10 mode). 

[Walt2]

Walt2,

To continue on the tangent, (sorry to the "OP") Smarthome's entire Insteon line (Switchlinc and Icon) are X10 2-way compatible as well (they can be used as X10 transmitters). 

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't they require a neutral line in the switch box?  The Smarthomes wall switch controllers I looked at, needed hot, hot return (switched hot), and neutral, or a total of three wires.  I have only two wires, regardless of what I hook those two up to be.

Besides, at least for my application, being able to still manually switch on/off that one outlet, located next to the door, under the wall switch itself, isn't a requirement.

[Boiler]

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't they require a neutral line in the switch box?  The Smarthomes wall switch controllers I looked at, needed hot, hot return (switched hot), and neutral, or a total of three wires.  I have only two wires, regardless of what I hook those two up to be.

Correct again (man I've eaten my share of crow on this thread) the Smarthome Insteon line requires a neutral connection.  The Leviton switches provide a neutral connection as an option for noise immunity.  I have several of the Leviton switches running without the neutral.

I really need to start reading the posts a bit closer:

The wall switches have only two wires running to them; hot and hot return.   However, it would be a trivial re-wire to change that to hot and neutral; just what these Leviton single unit controllers require.   

Thanks for not using the words "hey stupid" in your reply (I do answer to this at home).  Sorry for the mis-information.  And for the Xth time, back to the original thread.

[Walt2]

Thanks for not using the words "hey stupid" in your reply (I do answer to this at home).  Sorry for the mis-information.  And for the Xth time, back to the original thread.

No, that was certainly not my intention.   

I look at threads like this as open "brain storming".  If someone didn't post about those Leviton wall controllers, even though they weren't the right solution for the OP, their mention was of help to me.

[dave w]

I wanted to know if there is a single gang decora look alike that is wireless and will work with the CM15A's RF antenna?    I do not want one of those 4 button things - they are not wife approved 

Any ideas?  Please I have searched the web - I am sure I missed it - but please help!

raccah

To answer your specific question with the limitations you have described: You can't there from here.

There are NO single button WIRELESS X10 switches except "Big Red" the panic button, and it does not look Decora.

Although if you mounted in your hall next to a door, it could be confused with an elevator call button or a fire alarm

[Boiler]

One more try for the wired approach.

Assuming you were going to mount a box in your hallway - could you use a standard mechanical Decora switch to activate a remote Dry Contact module?  You would need to run low voltage wiring (2 wires) to the switch, but these can be a very light gauge (22 gauge is nice for hookup) and are far easier to feed than Romex cable.

Assuming this is an inside wall with no insulation (hallway right?) you should be able to enter the wall though either the top or bottom.  Route the low voltage wire from the mechanical switch to a PSC01 install in an unobtrusive (wife approved) location where you can access the power line. 

If you absolutely can't gain access above or below,  you could angle drill though the plate and route the wire along your base trim.  If you are replacing trim during your "remodel" this may actually be the most direct approach. 

If you have a stud finder that has "electric wiring" detection capability, check the wall for live circuits first.  A drill bit is not a good way to locate a live electrical run.

PSC01 Manual

[HA Dave]

.... this problem has been eating at the back of my mind. With far too few brain cells to have any ate away... I have been forced to think. I can completely understand wanting to have an exact match with the other switches (I am married).

I know the decora rocker plate pops off..... I wonder how difficult it would be to just cut-off the "workings" from the back and install a couple momentary (behind the squishy rocker plate) and hack the switches to a 2 button remote (KR19A). With the working guts removed (from the switch) there would be ample space to glue on the remote. Then the modified switch could be mounted in the wall using a plastic rework-box and NO WIRING.

Of course the batteries would need replaced every year or two. But I've gone alot further for WAF.

[Walt2]

I know the decora rocker plate pops off..... I wonder how difficult it would be to just cut-off the "workings" from the back and install a momentary (behind the squishy rocker plate, where the square button is now) and hack the switch to a 2 button remote (KR19A). With the working guts removed (from the switch) there would be ample space to glue on the remote. Then the modified switch could be mounted in the wall using a plastic rework-box and NO WIRING.

Would not a decora-style 3-way companion switch, like the WS14A, be much the same thing???  Aren't companion switches just momentary contact switches??