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[Brian H]

I believe you will need a macro. Triggered by the C? [unit number here] code transmitted on the powerline from the TM751. That can then have the cm15a send the on signal to the LM15a. Note conditional times may need the smart macros plug in. Have you tried a question in the AHP Forums? Yes there are a whole different set of forums for AHP. Pick an AHP Tab on any X10 page. Then pick the support tab near the top and then Forums or: www.x10.com/news/msgb/index.cgi?board=ahp-general

OP:

I have had similar problems. It's a two bulb fixture. My problem is with Activehome Pro though. It works fine from the remote but Activehome Pro is the worst piece of software it has been my misfortune to have on my computer. I can't switch it off through Activehome Pro. I *can* however, make Activehome Pro crash *every* time I use it with no problems at all.

Re: WS467 [2 of 3]

Re: WS467 [3 of 3] Energy Saver bulb flickers when off


[TTA Edit #2: Experiment to determine whether or not DELETING the OP (*AFTER* copying it into Reply #1) in 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) will allow current ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Views) section of the Statistics Center (aka More Stats) Page.]

[TTA Edit: Experiment to determine whether or not SPLITTING 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) into parts will allow current ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Replies) section of the Statistics Center (aka More Stats) Page.

NOTE: I *WILL* address the <BR> problem...]

[dieboy]

Rico, the software is a bit flaky, for
instance, on the 2003 server i run it on (as
thats the only machine on 24/7), i *have* to
run it in 'win xp' compatibility mode
otherwise it crashes every time, and the few
times it did start, it was rather unstable.

[dieboy]

Are you running it on 2003 server? Mine
crashes every time, or is horribly unstable.
I run it in XP compatibility mode, works
fine then.

The problem may lay in where the CM15a
module is plugged into.

It sounds more like a software problem.  If
the socket works from the remotes, chances
are it works fine.

There are a few other options for home
automation software out there. Some are
free, others arn't. MrHouse, free but you
need to have some coding know how. Smart
home, have to buy a setup similar to x10,
but there software is a bit more stable I
hear.

[dieboy]

And here is the fix, found on a site linked
to me in an earlier thread.
-------------------------------------------

[dieboy]

Fixing module that randomly turns on
Credit: Steve Bloom - newsgroup post

The WS467 wall switch (and I suspect it's
variations, as well) does indeed "randomly"
turn on.

Specifically, under the correct conditions,
a WS467 can "glitch" on due to a power spike
from a large bank of magnetic ballast
fluorescents on the same circuit, large
motor, etc. And filter caps across the 78566
chip, resistor change in the "button" line
nor MOVs do not help.

The solution is actually quite simple, once
it is figured out. The 78566 chip in the
WS467 contains 2 unused pins (pin #8 and pin
#9) who's function is unknown to me.
However, manipulation of pin #9 can cause
the WS467 to turn on the light.

After discovering this, I have since tied
pin #9 to -v and the "random" light turnons
have stopped. My personal preference is to
install a 10K 1/8-1/4w resistor across the
top of the ic between pin #9 and pin #18. A
hard wire will probably be ok, but not
acceptable standard practice when dealing
with bidirectional I/O pins.

[dieboy]

Now my question is, since I can't fix them
myself (limited soldering cabalities).

I just spent about 130+ bucks on wall
switches that are basically garbage. Now I
have to repurchase 10 decorator switches or
pro switches, that are even more expensive.

Are the new switches wired the same as the
old? As I am *not* going to waste 200+ bucks
replacing all these switches with the pro's
only to find out they do the same thing.

I guess its just another reason to move from
x10's inability to fix (by adding a 2cent
resitor) a product to insteons, works right
the first damn time products.

Thanks for taking me for 130 and some change
x10! I do appreciate it. *grumble*

[dieboy]

You would want to check the draw on it
first. I would imagine a pro switch would
work fine, or a decorator switch.

I don't understand why it would need to be
hooked to gas valves etc. I would think the
simpler solution is just put it on a wall
switch. Maybe I just can't picture what your
talking about.

[Brian H]

The X10 WS12a wires in the same as the other
ones you have. Biggest difference is it can
do local dimming. Tap the paddle to go on or
off. Hold it and it dims to zero then
brightens to 100%. Some of the other brands
like Smarthome and Leviton also need the
Neutral wire in the switch box. So do you
remember if there was a neutral wire in the
box not used. X10 Pro stuff for the most
part [not all of them] is the same as X10s
with a different label and I think a longer
warantee.

[jeff h]

I asked the questions as I am very aware
that the combination fo gas and
electrricity is the same thing that goes
poof on my BBQ!  As for the wall switch, if
it isn't in the 110 circuit, it would not
get the signal, right?  I just thought I
remember the cheesy video on the X10 site
showing a fireplace lighting.

[bill]

X-10 does make a module similar to an
appliance module that plugs into 110vac and
receives an X-10 code which in turn closes
a set of dry contacts (brought out to screw
terminals) - perfect for what you may need
here - but you would have to extend the
existing switch wires to it or course.  I
don't remember what they called it though -
sorry.

[j lawrence]

Thanks a lot, that forum has a lot to offer
and best of all, i think my question has
already been ask and answered.

[Brian H]

Good, glad it helped.

[dave w]

Yes I have used appliance module(S) for
powered screens and drapes.
Is your wall switch momentary (spring
loaded) or can you leave the switch in
the "UP" or "DOWN" position?

I used two appliance modules; one powered a
120V SPDT relay which took the place of the
wall switch and a second appliance module to
actually apply power the the circuit through
a second SPDT relay.

The X10 controller, through macros, would
decide whether the direction control relay
needed to be acitvated or not. (ie the
macros acted as a "flip-flop" and A1 ON
would always activate the motor in the
proper direction

You could also use one appliance module to
power the UP motor winding and a second
appliance module to power the DOWN motor
winding. This is a little risky considering
X10's propensity to "false". You could run
into situation of applying power to both
motor windings at same time. (If you can
leave the wall switch in the UP or DOWN
position, either appliance module
configuratin will work as you are protected
by the screens limit switches). You may want
to involve an electrician if this is greek;-)

[craig]

From what I have found, the plastic covers
come off very easy, it doesn't take any
prying.  The covers are somewhat difficult
to grab, but the middle of the button is
raised up enough to grab onto and voila,
off it comes.

[john t.]

Lance.....
I can say that I am having major problems
with motion detectors that are 20 feet
away. I have ordered V572AB with the TW532
power line interface and the 1132CUP (which
replaces the non-rf part of the CM15A).
Will be here tomorrow and I'll start
playing tomorrow night. First thing I'm
going to try is my outdoor motion
detectors.

I'll post results.