Building new house.... X-10 advice please

Started by ramdough, September 27, 2007, 02:34:19 PM

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ramdough



My wife and I are building a house and plan on having all light switches controlled by X-10.  Most of our lights will be fluorescent, some will be incandescent on dimmers.  I will need 3-way and maybe 4-way light switching.  I plan on using the switch modules wherever I can. 

I will also have a few outlets for my fluorescent aquarium lights. 

Can someone direct me to where I can find wiring diagrams for modules that can control fluorescent lights?  Which switch unites do I need? 

I appreciate any help you can give me. 

Walt2

Just make sure that you have neutral in every switch box.  Tell your electrician that this is a requirement.

Then, you will have all sorts of options with X10.
* Sears Home Control System, Radio Shack Plug 'n Power, NuTone, Stanley LightMaker, BSR, HomeLink.
* Tecmar Device Master, CP290 (LightHouse), CM11A (AH), CM14A (AH2), CM15A (AHPro).

JeffVolp

In addition to the neutral, I recommend you have your electrician use DEEP METAL electrical boxes wherever you might possibly install a dimmer switch.  Many people report their dimmer switches get hot because the plastic electrical boxes that are now commonly used are very poor conductors of heat.  Pretty much the only way a dimmer can get rid of waste heat dissipated by the triac is directly through the faceplate.  The deep box gives room to install in-line filters for compact fluorescent lights if necessary.

Jeff
X-10 automation since the BSR days

dave w

Besides ensuring there is a neutral in all switch boxes and using metal boxes, have your electrical contractor wire for and install standard 3-way and 4-way switches, then put in X10 later. That way if you don't like X10 or want to upgade to a different standard, your house will have conventional wiring schemes.

http://www.x10pro.com/
http://www.x10.com/catalog/cat_automation.htm
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Main_Page
http://www.x10.com/automation/index.html
http://www.x10.com/support/support_manuals.htm
"This aftershave makes me look fat"

ramdough


Please explain to me what a neutral is?  I am used to a black (hot wire), a white (return wire), and a copper (safety ground).  Where does the neutral go?  Does it connect to ground or white? 

Thanks for all of you help. 

Puck

Quote from: ramdough on September 28, 2007, 01:06:57 PM

Please explain to me what a neutral is?  I am used to a black (hot wire), a white (return wire), and a copper (safety ground). 

The White (return) is the Neutral wire.

Walt2

#6
Quote from: Puck on September 28, 2007, 01:31:08 PM

The White (return) is the Neutral wire.


The white wire is not always neutral, especially in switch boxes.

When you have power going directly to the outlet/fixture, a 2 conductor cable is run from the outlet/fixture to the switch.  In that 2 conductor cable,  you have hot running to the switch on the black wire, and switched-hot going back to the outlet/fixture on the white wire. 

So, don't say "I want a white wire".  Be clear and say "I want a neutral wire".
* Sears Home Control System, Radio Shack Plug 'n Power, NuTone, Stanley LightMaker, BSR, HomeLink.
* Tecmar Device Master, CP290 (LightHouse), CM11A (AH), CM14A (AH2), CM15A (AHPro).

ramdough

Thanks for all of your help. 

From what I have read, for fluorescent lights, you have to use the switch modules that require a neutral.... right? 

Thanks again. 

Walt2

Switch modules that can support a fluorescent light always require a neutral wire in the switch box.   But the reverse isn't true.  Not all switch modules that require a neutral, will work with a fluorescent light.  There are some switch modules that require a neutral wire but only support an incandescent light.
* Sears Home Control System, Radio Shack Plug 'n Power, NuTone, Stanley LightMaker, BSR, HomeLink.
* Tecmar Device Master, CP290 (LightHouse), CM11A (AH), CM14A (AH2), CM15A (AHPro).

ramdough



How do you know which ones to use for fluorescent lights? 

dave w

"This aftershave makes me look fat"

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