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[Mr Bob]

Alright, I've read all that I can get my hands on regarding AHP - and X10 in general.  And I still can't seem to get the CM15A USB interface to function at all.  Here's what I have setup:

2 WS12A switches - 1 controlling the entryway overhead lights and the other controlling the front porch light (B1 and B2 respectively).  The third - B3 - is a WS13A controlling the front yard post lights (one of which has a florescent bulb screwed in)

Lamp module 1 (B12) controls an end table lamp in the family room and the other (B13) - a floor lamp in family room.  Transceiver is set to house code B and is plugged in in the kitchen (central location to all)

I get zero response from AHP/CM15A (set to monitor housecode C), and mixed results otherwise. 

With the palm remote I can get full functionality with B12 and B13.  I can turn B3 on and off, as expected.  But B1 and B2 will not turn on.  When turned on manually, I can DIM and BRIGHTEN, and turn OFF using the remote, but not ON again. 

I have swapped the WS12A's with new units 3 times now and get the same result each time.  I have moved the CM15A to every available outlet downstairs (AFTER downloading macros and timers).  Nothing seems to work. 

Again, I am sincerely appreciative of any and all help I can get.

Thanks
Bob H
Southern Maryland

[Walt2]

I just have to ask, why do you have housecode "C" set for monitoring, when you seem to have all your modules set to housecode "B"?

If not already, I would suggest in AHP you set both the transceiver and monitoring for housecode "B".

Unplug the transceiver you have in the kitchen.

Try again, with moving the CM15a from outlet to outlet if need be.

[Mr Bob]

Wow - that was fast!  Thank you.

I don't remember why it's set to C - at first it was set to housecode B.  Since it wasna't working,  I thought that it might be interfering with the transceiver.  I don't have a clear understanding of the relative priority in these modules - does the CM15A outrank the transceivers?  Do they conflict with each other if you have one of each set to the same housecode?

I just followed your suggestion - I think I'm getting closer.  Now, at least, the switches displayed on the AHP desktop display are moving when I turn them ON and OFF with the remotes.  That wasn't happening before.  But, alas, NO lights are now functioning.  The AHP display on my PC has no effect on the lights.  The CM15A is about 8 feet away from the B1-B3 switches and 15 feet from lamp module B13 (2 interior walls). 

Suggestions?

Thanks again.
Bob H

[Puck]

[I don't remember why it's set to C - at first it was set to housecode B.  Since it wasna't working,  I thought that it might be interfering with the transceiver. 

The house code that is set to Monitored is just for use in macro conditions. But a Walt2 suggested, make sure B is the CM15A's Transcieved house code and remove the 2nd Transceiver.

For more info on the difference, please read this topic: What's The Difference Between Monitored and Transceived HouseCodes?

I don't have a clear understanding of the relative priority in these modules - does the CM15A outrank the transceivers?  Do they conflict with each other if you have one of each set to the same housecode?

No transceiver out ranks the other, but some are polite and others are not. For reliability purposes, never have the same house code Transceived by more the one unit.

The AHP display on my PC has no effect on the lights.  The CM15A is about 8 feet away from the B1-B3 switches and 15 feet from lamp module B13 (2 interior walls).

 

The physical distance between the CM15A and the modules is not what matters here; what matters is the electrical path between the two. If the CM15A will not control a module, then there is some electrical issue on that path. These issues are generally a Noise Source or an X10 Signal Sucker. There is most likely some electrical items in your house plugged into the circuit(s) that the CM15A and/or the modules are on.

You can move the CM15A around to try and find the best location for it to work, but I suggest you map out the electrical circuits and the phase each of them are on.

It can take a bit of effort & lots reading to get a system to work reliably, but in the end it will be worth it. For more information on Noise Sources and Signal Suckers do a search and check out JeffVolp's Powerline Control Reliability section of the forum.

[Mr Bob]

 If the CM15A will not control a module, then there is some electrical issue on that path. These issues are generally a Noise Source or an X10 Signal Sucker. There is most likely some electrical items in your house plugged into the circuit(s) that the CM15A and/or the modules are on.

You can move the CM15A around to try and find the best location for it to work, but I suggest you map out the electrical circuits and the phase each of them are on.

It can take a bit of effort & lots reading to get a system to work reliably, but in the end it will be worth it. For more information on Noise Sources and Signal Suckers do a search and check out JeffVolp's Powerline Control Reliability section of the forum.

Thank you for your very helpful response.  Have you considered writing a book?   

While I wait for an opportunity to get over to Home Depot (I'm a 'shut-in' - can't drive - wheel chair bound - but I miss my Harley . . .) to pick-up a circuit tester, I have a couple more questions that perhaps you'd be kind enough to answer. 

I think I'm starting to understand X10 a bit better now.  I'm a pilot/accountant - not an electrician - but I'm learning fast.  My brother-in law, who lives across the street from me IS an electrician.  So help isn't too far away . . .

When I send an ON or OFF signal via remote to the B3 (WS13A) it 'clicks' (audibly and functionally) on and off.  (B1 and B2 are in the same triple switch wall box).  On or off to B1 causes the transceiver to 'CLICK' - but no response from the WS12A.  With B2 - also a WS12A - no sound and no ON - but it will turn off.

Is this indicative of "signal noise". 

On one circuit, I have a home network of 3 computers and 2 printers - this is the same circuit as the wall switches mentioned above.  Would the addition of filters on each computer help?  What about printers?

Again - thanks for all of your help.

Bob H.

[Puck]

When I send an ON or OFF signal via remote to the B3 (WS13A) it 'clicks' (audibly and functionally) on and off.  (B1 and B2 are in the same triple switch wall box).  On or off to B1 causes the transceiver to 'CLICK' - but no response from the WS12A.  With B2 - also a WS12A - no sound and no ON - but it will turn off.

Is this indicative of "signal noise". 

I have one 3-ganged switch box, and 2 switches are on one circuit and the 3rd is on a different circuit.

When you have partial control of a module, it's almost always a signal integrity issue.

On one circuit, I have a home network of 3 computers and 2 printers - this is the same circuit as the wall switches mentioned above.  Would the addition of filters on each computer help?  What about printers?

Computers are notorious for messing up X10 signals. Filters are the way best way to go. You should be able to use one filter per computer set up (PC, monitor, printers, etc.). Most filters come in 5-Amp or 10-Amp versions. With a standard PC & Monitor I use 5-Amp filters; with my main PC that has the network router, 2 monitors, the printer & the scanner I use a 10-Amp Filter. You can look on each piece of equipment and add up their power requirements to see if a 5-Amp will do or if you will need the 10-Amp filter.