Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[AdamF]

To defeat the local control, it has been suggested that you plug in a 2-way or 3-way tap adapter to the module or outlet. You then plug the fluorescent light into one of the outlets, and a small incandescent night-light to the other side. The night-light will prevent the flickering, and prevent the light from turning back on by itself.

Ah ok, I think I get it now.  I didn't understand at first.  Just to make sure I'm clear about how this should work...

PA011:
--> Top outlet (controlled)
------> Plug in a 2 or 3-way adapter (splitter)
-------------> One input of the adapter goes the fluorescent light
-------------> Other input of the adapter goes the night-light

--> Bottom outlet (uncontrolled)
-------> I can use this for whatever I want

Thanks.

[Dan Lawrence]

Did you add the PA011 to AHP with its address along with the AM466 in the uncontrolled outlet with its separate address?  AHP should be able to address both as long as the addresses are different.

Yes.  In AHP I have the PA011 at address D2 and it's definitely set as a PA011 receptacle.  I also have the AM466 appliance module in AHP with address D9 and it's definitely set as an applicance module.  The AM466 responds from AHP just fine but the PA011 does not.  They both respond just fine with the Palm Pad remote using a TM751.

Try setting the address on PAO11 (it's a receptacle module, BTW ) a to a different housecode, don't use D for it.  See what AHP does to it then.

[Noam]

To defeat the local control, it has been suggested that you plug in a 2-way or 3-way tap adapter to the module or outlet. You then plug the fluorescent light into one of the outlets, and a small incandescent night-light to the other side. The night-light will prevent the flickering, and prevent the light from turning back on by itself.

Ah ok, I think I get it now.  I didn't understand at first.  Just to make sure I'm clear about how this should work...

PA011:
--> Top outlet (controlled)
------> Plug in a 2 or 3-way adapter (splitter)
-------------> One input of the adapter goes the fluorescent light
-------------> Other input of the adapter goes the night-light

--> Bottom outlet (uncontrolled)
-------> I can use this for whatever I want

Thanks.

As a disclaimer, I've never actually done it myself. However, that's the way I've seen it described in several places.

[KenJ]

I have three shop lights on AM466 modules and results were very unpredictable. 
   Switching back on
   Switching off at random
   not working at all.

I figured that this was due to RFI (hash) being made by the fluorescents interfering with the power line communications.
 
I installed AC line filters between the lights and the AM466's and now everyting works fine.

These filters are twice the size of the module and cost about the same (or more).

But they sure do work.

The ones I have are from RF Parts

www.rfparts.com/filter.html

but you can get them lots of places.
Make sure you connect the ground wire on BOTH sides of the filter so that the lamp housing remains safe to touch.


Ken

[drisspsu]

I also have aquarium light strips and I use an SR227 Split Receptacle Module and no flickering occurs when the module is off.

[drisspsu]

For CFL's I use a RLM20, socket rocket screw in lamp module, and when module is off no flickering occurs. I can control this with the Active home interface and with the HR12A remote control.

[Brian H]

The LM15A Socket Rocket also is fine with CFLs and the newer CCFLs.