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[JohnnyG]

The goal is to get a powered screen to drop automatically when a projector is turned on.  Unfortunately, the projector does not have a screen trigger output, so I bought (some time ago) a CS-1 AC Current Sensor from SmartHome (no longer available) and an X10 Powerflash Interface PSC01.  The current sensor is basically a "donut" shape where you wind the load wire around it.  The more windings, the more current is generated.

The problem I'm having is that the projector draws power even when it's technically off and this is tripping up the Powerflash.  One winding less through the current sensor and it's not stable when the projector is on (not quite enough power to keep the powerflash "on" 100%)....one winding more and it's not stable when the projector is off (just enough current to make the powerflash bounce on-off-on-off).  On the Powerflash, the Input switch is set to "A" and the Mode switch is set to "3".

Can anyone think of a way to remedy this?  Either with some clever electronic components to make it work as is, or with a different type of sensor feeding the Powerflash?

[HA Dave]

Can anyone think of a way to remedy this?  Either with some clever electronic components to make it work as is, or with a different type of sensor feeding the Powerflash?

I don't have a motorized screen in my theater <Link. I thought I could save money with the manual screen yet still get a wow factor using X10 lighting.

So I use an X10 Infrared Mini Controller (IR543) to send a signal to my X10 devices. My IR remote sender sits right on top of it (both are directly under the screen) and controls my A/V equipment in the back of the theater.

Most good universal remote controls can send X10 IR signals... I use a Harmony 628. The Harmony allows me to press the "watch a movie button" which turns ON all the correct A/V stuff... and dim and turn off lights.

P.S. To save myself the hassle of trying get projector replacement costs from my home owners insurance... in the event of a lighting storm. I wired mine on a double pole switch, as well as surge protected it.

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

The goal is to get a powered screen to drop automatically when a projector is turned on.

How is the projector turned on?  The best bet may be to sense the signal you are already sending to the projector.

[Walt2]

Another possible way, is to open up the projector, and find a low-voltage power supply output that you can tap into, and bring external to the projector (possibly on the projector, it drives a power on LED?).  Then, attach that to the Powerflash.

That is what I did with my garage door openers (for overhead light control, not open/close indication).  I tapped into the primary side of the internal relay which turn on/off its own light bulb, and ran that wire out to a Powerflash.  Now, my all my main garage lights turn on/off instead of the one bulb built into the unit.

[HA Dave]

That is what I did with my garage door openers (for overhead light control, not open/close indication). 

GREAT (and HELPFUL) idea for the garage Walt2!

[steven r]

... I tapped into the primary side of the internal relay which turn on/off its own light bulb, and ran that wire out to a Powerflash.  Now, my all my main garage lights turn on/off instead of the one bulb built into the unit.

That's a clever idea. The small, typically 60W maximum, garage bulb isn't lot of light by itself.

[Walt2]

That's a clever idea. The small, typically 60W maximum, garage bulb isn't lot of light by itself.

Ah, thanks (to Dave too).   

I also had two other problems.  The vibration of the opener itself, would "burn out" a bulb prematurely.  I kept having to replace them every few months. Plus, even a "low" 60W was enough to start melting/burning the white plastic cover/diffuser which went over the bulb.  So, I had to go even lower to only 40W.   

[dave w]

That is what I did with my garage door openers (for overhead light control, not open/close indication).  I tapped into the primary side of the internal relay which turn on/off its own light bulb, and ran that wire out to a Powerflash.  Now, my all my main garage lights turn on/off instead of the one bulb built into the unit.

Walt2 by "primary side of the internal relay" you mean the coil of the relay, don't you?