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[dondon]

I don't know that much about it but I believe the time has come for a module designed specifically for CFLs.  The bulbs are becoming cheap and common but most work poorly or now at all with various modules.  If the appliance module were redesigned without the sensing circuit it could work nicely with all CFLs, cheap or otherwise.  I heard there is a hack to fix the existing module but no info on how to do it.  Other than that all my stuff works well in cluding modules I purchased from Sears in 1982.

[Dan Lawrence]

As I mentioned in a reply in another section, X10 will make that when pigs fly.   I use a night light plugged into a cube tap which is plugged into an appliance module that addresses a lamp that has a CFL in it.  Kills any flicker.  AHP has no problem with the timers for that module.

[HA Dave]

I use the SocketRocket for both CFL's and LED's. I use different adapters, for more flexibility

[Jsnlong]

Don't X10 now market the appl. module for CFL's.  Its there "Going Green"   

[Dan Lawrence]

Nope!!!

You just use the modules X10 sells now.  Just remember, CFLs CANNOT be dimmed!!!!!  Appliance modules and LM15A Socket Rockets are best for CFLs.

[zach1234]

They Have dimable CFL now, they are 50.00 for a 4 pack at my corner hardware store.

[Brian H]

Not all dimmable CFLs work smoothly with lamp modules; but do work. Many like to be turned on full then after a minute warm up be dimmed. The new soft start Lamp Modules from X10 may not work too well with them and I have seen the Insteon soft starts not work with them well either.
  $50 a box of four. I got a 12 pack from eBay for a lot less than that. Though I think they where subsidized by California Electric and locals where reselling them. 

[MatrixPC]

Dimmable CFL doesn't really work that well with lamp module and wall switch module.
I have 2 dimmable that make by Green Light, they work very well on both lamp module and wall switch IF dimming level is between 20-99%.  At 100%, it flicker like no tomorrow.  below 20%, it just turn off and/or blink one in a few seconds.  Between 60-99%, there is no noticeable different in light output, from 22-60%, they work ok.  The light output from a dimmable CFL is not really that great anyway.  Just use regular bulbs if you want dimming.

The best option for CFL is the one posted by Dave_x10_L: A socketrocket + plug/socket adapter for a nice and quiet operation.  Anther option is the Appliance module, but it is depend on the bulb as well because of the current sensing circuit on the appliance module.
I have great successful with CFL bought from Costco called Energy Saver (or something like that) made by  Feit Electronic.  Those (13W, 16W, or 23W bulbs) work perfectly with appliance module only if they are new.  They will flicker and turn back on when they get old (about time to go to recycle bin).

[HA Dave]

I think the concept of "a specific CFL module"... is overly ambitious.. at best. I understand (remember) that some years ago we would put a big wattage lamp or light in a room. Then (back then) being able to dim the light/lamp down was handy. I've heard similar stories from [even] older people about using the Aladdin Lamps.

Dimming is nice.... but it was never an efficient way of lighting a room as far as electric use. It did mean you only had to own one lamp (same with the Aladdin). And it can be very effective as a sunrise/sunset simulator. I like the dim function for theater lighting.

But trying to switch over to the new lights... AND preserve the OLD WAYS of lighting a room... may just be a waste of time.

[MatrixPC]

I like the dim function for theater lighting.

But trying to switch over to the new lights... AND preserve the OLD WAYS of lighting a room... may just be a waste of time.

Right on.

[Walt2]

I have dimmable GE brand CFL bulbs. 

Yes, they can only be dimmed after first warming up at 100% bright.  And even after warming up, I can only dim them from 100% bright to about 80% before they flicker off.  Certainly not down to "night light" level, which is actually the level I use a lot.

It would be nice if X10 had a combination "socket rocket" and CFL as an integrated unit.  One possibly with, say, a 5watt tube, and a 15watt tube.  In response to dim levels, it would turn on the 5watt tube, then the 15watt tube, and finally both tubes.  IMHO, that is just about the only way to get a low light level out of a current technology CFL.

[Brian H]

I have a three way type CFL. It has three levels depending on the lamps switch position. To start better it goes to Full On then dims down if set to level 1 or level 2  settings. No dim just three distinct levels.

[HA Dave]

.................Certainly not down to "night light" level, which is actually the level I use a lot.

I also like a "not completely dark" level of light at times. I use these LED's in cabinet lighting. They are slightly blueish-green and for 1.3 watts you get what used to be about 25 watts of light. Even defused the light is very directional... but in cabinet lighting... that's a good thing.

I converted to CFL's a decade ago... and where as they do use less energy when on... all things considered they are just plain awful as a light source. LED's aren't really any better than CFL's as to quality of light.

I have lights and lamps everywhere so I can brighten a room to a decent level with no real problem. But the only time I get a decent quality of light is when it shines through the windows.