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[Pete S]

I have an X10 wall switch (PLW01) that often turns on by itself. None of my other X10 devices do this. It just controls an incandescent bulb.
I have done the following:
1. Set up a test lamp to the same address; the test lamp never comes on when the switch does.
2. Changed the address of the wall switch from A6 to A1, but the problem persists.
3. Noted that the switch's coming on does not seem to be related to the AC or pool pump on the same breaker box.
4. Using Indigo confirmed that no X10 signal is being sent to the wall switch.

What's the best solution?

Thanks,

Pete S

[jrwooden]

I don't have the solution either but am having a similar problem.
One of my old wall switches conked out WS467 - and I replaced it with a PLW01 since I could not find a WS467 in ivory.

The PLW01 is not responding (or is responding but then turning back off) to commands sent from my CM11A
It seems to work ok if activated manually from a handheld remote, or even manually thru the ActiveHome software via the CM11A, but timed events sent from the CM11A don't work correctly ... I've tried lots of stuff, but no success...........................   

Jim

[Brian H]

I don't have an answer yet, but the PLW01 now has what is called Soft Start; Fade Off and Resume Dim features. I believe the new WS467 does also.
I know the modular lamp modules with these features do act differently. Hopefully someone has the answers you both need.

[Boiler]

I have an X10 wall switch (PLW01) that often turns on by itself. None of my other X10 devices do this. It just controls an incandescent bulb.
I have done the following:
1. Set up a test lamp to the same address; the test lamp never comes on when the switch does.
2. Changed the address of the wall switch from A6 to A1, but the problem persists.
3. Noted that the switch's coming on does not seem to be related to the AC or pool pump on the same breaker box.
4. Using Indigo confirmed that no X10 signal is being sent to the wall switch.

What's the best solution?

Thanks,

Pete S

Pete,
It sounds like you've done a good job of eliminating possible causes.  Since you've verified that no X10 signals are being transmitted during the "occurrence", I would guess that you have a local load problem on that particular circuit.

Somewhere on that circuit you have a device that is spiking the line during turn-on or off.  This is in turn coupling into the PIC in the PLW01 and fooling it into turning on.  Possible culprits include fast start fluorescents, motor loads (devices with high capacitive or inductive loads).  If you perform an inspection of the devices connected to this circuit, I suspect you'll find one of these.

How do you fix this?  Well that's a bit tougher. 

1)  It's possible that you have a problem with the circuit itself.  Try checking for loose connections throughout the circuit (including the connection to the breaker and neutral bar at the box).
2) You may have a issue with a connected device (tube going out in a fluorescent).
3) You may be at the end of a long electrical circuit where the line impedance back to the panel is high (multiple series connections through outlets).  This one is tough.  What you need to do is lower the apparent impedance of the circuit.  A filter may help, but the type will depend on the type of connected load (capacitive or inductive).

Try isolating the problem to a particular device on the circuit and get back with us,
Boiler

[Boiler]

I don't have the solution either but am having a similar problem.
One of my old wall switches conked out WS467 - and I replaced it with a PLW01 since I could not find a WS467 in ivory.

The PLW01 is not responding (or is responding but then turning back off) to commands sent from my CM11A
It seems to work ok if activated manually from a handheld remote, or even manually thru the ActiveHome software via the CM11A, but timed events sent from the CM11A don't work correctly ... I've tried lots of stuff, but no success...........................   

Jim

Jim,
As Brian indicated, this sounds like a different problem than what Pete is experiencing.

The new WS467's and PLW01's have 2 features that may be tripping you up.  I haven't used a CM11a in many years and have forgotten what modules are available in Active Home.  If you can, re-identify the PLW01 as a LM14a 2-way lamp module.  This should get around the problem.  If you don't have the LM14a interface in ActiveHome, read on.

1) Softstart - unfortunately these devices won't turn on in response to a bright or dim command.   Try re-identifying the unit as an appliance module to force the use on simple ON/OFF commands.
2) Resume DIM - These units will return to the last "DIM Level" when they receive an "ON" command.  This can drive you nuts if you are using the CM11a to dim the unit.  As an example:

• A) turn on lamp (100% bright)
• B) dim to 50% (50% bright)
• C) turn off lamp(0% bright)
• D) turn on lamp (50% bright)
• E) dim 50% (25% bright)
• and so on...

Again, if you do not have an extended code interface within ActiveHome (LM14a or equivalent) this will be a pain.  The appliance module work around (simple ON/Off commands) will work until someone changes the on level at the switch.

Sorry, but that's about the sum of my knowledge regarding the CM11a.  Again, hopefully someone with CM11a specific knowledge can chime in.
Boiler

[Brian H]

Active Home and the CM11A have both a module choice for the LM14A Lamp and AM14A Appliance Modules. If memory serves me both when first powered up. Requested their last know state from the CM11A running Active Home.
I would second Boilers suggestion. Try a LM14A even though things like a status request to the module will get no reply; as the PLW01 is not a two way device that can answer back.

[jrwooden]

Boiler & Brian:

THANKS Guys!

Indeed the LM14A is supported so I"m going to try that 
I think I was running into the issue you suspected with the on-to-last-set-brightness

I'll post back with the results, but I'll bet this fixes it!

I have not upgraded to something newer as I've been running under the "If it's not broke I should not try to fix it" theory....
That and I keep thinking that since the CM15A is now what ... 4 or 5 years old they will come out with a new version soon???
Or did they do that already and I missed the announcement? 


Jim

[jrwooden]

Hmmmmmmmm one question:

Will and "old" WS467 respond correctly to LM14A commands?

I actually have two wall switches both set to J1 - one of them is at the front door, one is at the garage.
Last night, after setting "J1" to be an LM14A the new PLW01 seemed to work OK, while the other J1 which is still an old WS467 stopped working....

It's not a big deal, I can change out the other WS467, just curious to know if that really is my problem, or if I've got YET some other issue... 

Thanks,
Jim

[Boiler]

Hmmmmmmmm one question:

Will and "old" WS467 respond correctly to LM14A commands?

I actually have two wall switches both set to J1 - one of them is at the front door, one is at the garage.
Last night, after setting "J1" to be an LM14A the new PLW01 seemed to work OK, while the other J1 which is still an old WS467 stopped working....

It's not a big deal, I can change out the other WS467, just curious to know if that really is my problem, or if I've got YET some other issue... 

Jim,
I'm sorry, but no the old WS467 is not compatible with the LM14a interface.  For the time being (until you replace your old unit) it would be best if you moved one of these units to a different unit code.  This will prevent unwanted interactions between the two device communications.

Boiler

[jrwooden]

Thanks AGAIN Boiler!


I have a spare PLW01, I'll stick that in @ the front door so that both J1 devices are the same!

Jim

[TheGear]

I have a fix that may work for you if all other solutions have failed, but it's not for the faint of heart. The X10 circuit board includes two electrolytic capacitors: a 220 uf 25V and a 0.47 uf 50V. Replace them. This worked for me. At this time I don't know which one was the culprit; I intend to do more research and perhaps put a video online to show how to do this. (Caution: if you try this, be careful not to lose any of the parts, especially the tiny spring and rocking contact that are part of the manual switch.)

[dave w]

Pete S, I know this will sound absurd. But if Bioler's information does not help, try unscrewing and retightening the bulb the PLW01 is controling.