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[pomonabill221]

Just another side note...
I found that newer wall wart power supplies MAY have switching supplies in them.  You can tell (possibly) by comparing the output current on the label by how heavy and big it is.  A 5 volt 1 amp TRANSFORMER adaptor (actully about 8-12 volts unregulated) will be rather large and heavy, where a switcher will be small and light.
ALSO... newer computer monitors (the LCD type especially), TV, computer power supplies ALL have switchers in them and the first thing the AC line sees is an LC filter! 
usually about 0.1uF cap across the line, then a choke, then another 0.1uF cap  (a PI filter).
the key component is the first 0.1uF cap!!!!  DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR???  A HUGE X10 SIGNAL SHORT!!!
I have removed these caps myself, and voila, my X10 signals are baaakkkkk! 
I don't recommend you do this, but I proved that these things are what killed my X10 signals.
The right way to do it is to get power line filters, or make your own.

[ronniekayser]

I have read all the posts on everything from (converting the wireless cameras to wired) to all the changes to channels ABCD.
I have turned of my router, my telephone(5.8GHZ) and still can't get my cameras to work at distances of more than ten feet.

On examining the internals of the camera itself (following tutorial posted for converting to wired) I noticed that there are three potentiometers on the bottom of the internal circuit board.  Can someone identify what these "pots" are for?  Will someone please provide schematics and parts layouts for these XCAM wireless cameras.

I have eight cameras and can only get them to work in the same room as the receiver.

Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated.

[Brian H]

You have tried each camera separately? To verify that more than one camera is not stepping on other one.

If the X10 device has a transmitter in it. The FCC database has the schematics, parts lists, internal and external photos. Many manufacturers opt for confidential. X10 made them public. In the details section after you find it in the data base.
A few of the X10 ones only give the assigned frequency and no added deatils.
I have many of the modules data on my hard drive now.

The generic link lets you search by a partial ID as X10 is B4S Grantee Code.

http://transition.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/

https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm

One pot is the lowest frequency, one is the highest frequency voltage adjustment to the VCO. The third one is the video level to the modulator.

[ronniekayser]

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.

I have set up all cameras and tested to make sure switching is working properly. No camera is stepping on another.
I set up four cameras in the same room as my computer and they switch and work perfectly well. As soon as I moved
the cameras to a distance greater about ten feet I get vertical rolling bars which destroy the picture.  The picture is
just visible behind the bars. I have tried the fix from X10 using a separate receiver and transmitter and see no change
in the results.  ( http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Extending_Wireless_Camera_Range )

I tried the extension as noted above and couldn't get the camera in the next room to stop rolling.  I currently have two
cameras in my garage, One camera in my dining room (approx. 30 feet away on the same floor as the receiver) and can't
get the camera to stop rolling.  I have a router and remote phone system that I turned off during the test. I currently have
four cameras set up and working well in my computer room.  I have ninja mounts on all the cameras and the ninjas
work fine.  Some interference is seen when setting the ninjas to extreme positions (changing the direction of the antennas).

I followed your link and found usable information concerning the color cameras.  They are labeled XX10A not 18A but the
pictures are identical to the 18A.  Also found an interesting AV transmitter listed as B4SVT50A. I tried the X10 store and
could not find it listed anywhere. This AV transmitter is a 5.4GHZ device and I was hoping to use it to boost the video
from my garage in the fashion outlined by X10 at ( http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Extending_Wireless_Camera_Range )
again this setup does not work in my house.  The FCC link indeed included a schematic for the camera but there is
no parts layout to tell me which potentiometer controls what.  If you have a parts layout I would like to try to tune the
cameras to maximum undistorted output. 

Thank you for your time and effort in this matter.

Ronnie Kayser

[dave w]

As soon as I moved
the cameras to a distance greater about ten feet I get vertical rolling bars which destroy the picture.  The picture is
just visible behind the bars.

That sounds like external interference, not simply a weak signal. If you are absolutley positive that the other three cameras are off when one camera is on, then what other 2.4GHz devices do you have? I see you have wireless router, and  2.4GHz cordless phone, which you disabled, but heavy black rolling bars describes other conflicting (hetrodyning) signals. Can you feed the output of the receiver to a video monitor with audio? Do you have loud low freq buzz? and does each camera do it when tested individually?

[Brian H]

Did you also download the internal photos of the camera.
I believe you can see a TP-VP silk screened on the board.

I don't think tuning will do much and could lead to even more problems.
It does sound like some external interference.
Your neighbors aren't running wi-fi hot spot are they?