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[atm98]

I have a room with no central light so I use lamps on 3 different outlets.  The entire room is on the same circuit with one switch.  I would like to turn on/off 3 outlets with a switch while not effecting my TV.  Is there an X10 switch that will do this or is it only possible with other hardware?

Thanks

Austin

[BaBaLou.]

Hi Atm98 and welcome to the forum. Does is effect the TV now, How? RU switching the TV off and on by the switch meaning that ALL the outlets are switched, top and bottom for the whole room?
one solution is to use 3 lamp modules and plug your lamps into them while then using a remote to switch them on and off and dim as well. If you R using CF bulbs and then the need for appliance module instead. You can still add an X10 switch and control those modules but you cant do that without the lamp being plugged into an X10 product.
Another, Use SuperSocket receptacle and then doing the same by having X10 on the top outlet control and live on the lower outlet.
Hope that helps
BaBaLou.

[Boiler]

atm98,

I'm reading your post the same as BaBaLou - that all of your outlets (including the TV) are controlled through 1 switch.

That's not a very good situation for your TV.  I had my 55" Toshiba loose it's brains when my 2 year old decided to try morse code with a switch in my basement.  I took me a week to figure out what happened and a number of days to reprogram.

#1 on my list of suggestions - bypass or disable your existing switch so that you are not power cycling your TV.

As BaBaLou has indicated, there are a number of ways of accomplishing this using either lamp modules, appliance modules, or socket rockets.  The question then becomes whether you want a hardwired or wireless switch to activate the lights.

A hardwired solution will mean replacing your existing switch with a XPT transmitter.  Doing this requires a neutral connection at the switch location.  It will also mean that all of your outlets will be wired "ON" (eliminates the problem with the TV).

Info on the XPT transmitters is located here: X10PRO Wall Mounted Controller

RF solutions would involve a TM751 transceiver and a wireless transmitter (HR12a Palmpad, SS13a Slimswitch, etc).

A tabletop solution (plug-in) would be a Maxi or Mini controller (SC503/MC460).

Let us know your preference and someone will be able to help,
Boiler

[atm98]

Thanks for your help.
I ordered the XPT4 and some wall receptacles last night.

After some more digging, my setup is a little different then I initially thought.  The room is on 2 different breakers. The place on the wall where the switch belongs has wires to 2 outlets. The remaining 3 in the room are on a different circuit.  (I should have mentioned before that the switch was bypassed before I acquired the house. Probably for the same TV issue) The breakers are above eachother and I got 120v across the two circuits. This lets me think they are on the same phase. Hence I assume my switching configuration will still work as planned. 

Please let me know any potential flaws in my plan.
Thanks,
Austin

[Boiler]

I ordered the XPT4 and some wall receptacles last night.

After some more digging, my setup is a little different then I initially thought.  The room is on 2 different breakers. The place on the wall where the switch belongs has wires to 2 outlets. The remaining 3 in the room are on a different circuit.  (I should have mentioned before that the switch was bypassed before I acquired the house. Probably for the same TV issue) The breakers are above eachother and I got 120v across the two circuits. This lets me think they are on the same phase. Hence I assume my switching configuration will still work as planned. 

Austin,

If you were measuring from breaker to breaker and saw 120V, you're correct that these are on the same phase.  I'm assuming that the breakers are on the same side of the panel, but not immediately adjacent (there's an odd number of breakers between them).

Since your circuits appear to be on the same phase, you will not need a phase coupler for your setup (unless you wish to expand in the future).  One word of caution regarding the TV - It can be a noise source or signal absorber for X10.  You may need to install a filter if you have problems communicating with devices on this circuit.  I say may because it depends entirely on the power input design of the TV.  I currently have 5 TV's in the house.  Only one of them has a filter (previously mentioned Toshiba 55" RPJ).

Let us know how things turn out,
Boiler

[dellzip@gmail.com]

You guys are getting all my questions before i even ask, Thanks!

[atm98]

Hi again
I installed the XPT and one receptacle. The rest I will to tomorrow. It took me a minute to figure out how to program the unit. This statement made it clear:

Unit Number Addresses run in Sequential Order ascending up from the set Number Dial Address.
I.E. - Dials set to A1, next button is A2, A3 and A4 in accordance with the Keypad used.

[atm98]

Next Question:
I hear a fairly loud click when I turn on the light.  Is this typical? Is this a due to some type of relay or solenoid or something else? I can't imagine it sparking.

Austin

[Brian H]

The Appliance Modules; wall outlet and non dimming wall switches have a mechanical ratchet switch in them. The clunk is normal for those types of devices.

[jammieredsor]

I found answers in the posts that will help me with the issues I'm having...