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[Lynn12345]

I recently installed 3 WS467 wall switch modules (front porch, back porch & garage door light fixtures).  I set a timer for each of them - on a dusk/off at dawn.  I also set the timers to dim to 60%.  This worked great for a couple weeks, when I decided 60% was too dim.  The problem I'm having is that I am unable to "un-dim" the back porch light - it's stuck on 60%.  I've tried modifying the timer & set it to 100%, but that still doesn't work.  When I turn it on and off from the switch, it's still at 60%.  I'm also unable to change the brightness manually on the module using AHP.  I've tried deleting the module and adding it back - no success.   I am also unable to turn on/off from the switch intermittently.  I am able to turn on /off the switch from the remote, but it's still at 60%.  I unplugged the CM15A, removed the batteries and downloaded timers/macros again - still no luck.  At the moment, I only have the 3 switches on AHP, all set to HC I and each has a different UC.  I also do not have any Transceiver Modules plugged in.  The CM15A is plugged into a different outlet than my PC.  Any suggestions?  Could the switch be defective?

Thanks - Lynn!

[Jsnlong]

Did you try to just hold down the button on the switch? That's how you manually dim/bright from the the switch itself. If you press and hold it and it dims just let go and then press and hold it again to make it brighter.

Also make sure the switch just under the button is off. That locks out manual controls and only lets you use remotes or AHP (doesn't sound like your problem but can play tricks on you)

The ws467 has a memory and will come on to the last dim setting. I do know from my use that AHP I can not tell AHP that is a WS467 to get my timers to work right. I tell AHP that's its a lamp module. I don't know why but its works everytime for me that way. 

[Lynn12345]

Thanks!  I didn't know about holding down the button to dim/bright from the switch.  I haven't done that.  Just press and release.  I'll try to set it up as a lamp module & hopefully that'll work.

Thanks for the advice!

L

[Jsnlong]

I would be sure to brighten it from the switch first to get it back to full brightness. and then play with the AHP set up. Will save you any confusions.


Good Luck

[Lynn12345]

I'm not able to brighten it from the switch.  Does that mean it might be defective?

Lynn

[Jsnlong]

If you can dim it but not brighten it......It could be bad. Will it dim then not get any brighter or will it just go back to what you think is 60%


Just to be sure... you hold the button down and can dim it when starts to dim let go and then press and hold it down again to go brighter!


What kind of light bulbs are you useing with this switch also?

[HA Dave]

I'm not able to brighten it from the switch.  Does that mean it might be defective?

Don't give up on the switch too quickly. It may be having difficulty with receiving the signal.

What kind of light bulbs are you using with this switch also?

Jsnlong is correct. It could just be that being ON... creates enough interference to prevent brightening.

[Brian H]

If it is a new WS467 it probably also has Soft Start and a Preset Dim.
This may also help. http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Newer_Wall_Switches_and_Preset_Dim

[bitman]

Shutting off the power to it via the breaker should do it shouldn't it? AFAIK there are no backup batteries in them.
They should forget everything you have taught them.

[dave w]

Shutting off the power to it via the breaker should do it shouldn't it? AFAIK there are no backup batteries in them.
They should forget everything you have taught them.

Correct. Kill the power momentarly, then "quick press" the button on the switch. Should come on at full bright.

[dave w]

Also make sure the switch just under the button is off. That locks out manual controls and only lets you use remotes or AHP (doesn't sound like your problem but can play tricks on you)

Are you sure about that? The small slide switch under the push button should kill power to the switch. I thought it was a safety measure required for UL approval.

[Jsnlong]

HUH your right it does kill power to the switch. I could have swore I read that in the ws467 manual but I took another look and it is to shut power off to change a light bulb 

Sorry I have like 8 of them and never even noticed that!

[dave w]

I don't have any of the new WS467 to confirm from, and it WOULD be easy to make some minor mechanical changes to the slide switch to make it block the push button from being pushed down. But I remember reading somthing years ago (1980s) that X10 added the "hard OFF" (I must be careful using that phrase) to meet NEC and UL approval criteria. As I recall, the original wall switch used a toggle instead of push button, and had no mechanical disconnect. Just wanted to check if X10 changed the design. Thanks

[Brian H]

I had one where the small slide switch broke. Luckily in the On position. 

[Dan Lawrence]

I had one where the small slide switch broke. Luckily in the On position. 

I've had a couple break on me, so whenever I replace a X10 wall switch (any kind) if the slide switch cover is good, it goes in the X10 spare box.