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[beamerman1]

Hello, Can anyone please help/explain.  I am new to x10 devices. 

I have the following:
1 WS12A wall switch
1 RR501 Transceiver
1 SS13A SlimLine Remote

I have a 2-wire wiring going to the existing switch.  So, I replaced the regular wall switch with the WS12A switch.  I set the switch to Code A2.
Then, I left the RR501 code to A1 and plugged in a table lamp into it and plugged it into the outlet.  I left the SS13A as a default codes.  A1, A2 and A3.

OK, testing time....  I was able to successfully turn ON/OFF the table lamp that was connected directly to the Transceiver, by hitting the 1st button (A1) on the Remote.
Now, I press the second button on the SS13A (code A2) and nothing happens.
I then moved the RR501 Transceiver to the outlet on the same circuit breaker (fuse) as the WS12A switch.  Now, all works.

Issue with this is, I was hoping to place the RR501 in the middle of the apartment so that the remote signal can reach it.  But, now I see that I'm limited to a particular outlets which are on the same circuit.  Is that true?  Is there a way that I can go around that?  Eventually, I would like to utilize at least 2 WS13A switches and 2 SS13A remotes in different parts of the apartment.

I appreciate any assistance and thank you in advance.

[HA Dave]

... Issue with this is, I was hoping to place the RR501 in the middle of the apartment so that the remote signal can reach it.  But, now I see that I'm limited to a particular outlets which are on the same circuit.  Is that true?

Sorta about half true. Most likely a phase issue not a circuit thing.

Is there a way that I can go around that?  Eventually, I would like to utilize at least 2 WS13A switches and 2 SS13A remotes in different parts of the apartment.

Normally... I would say if you have a phase issue use a device to bridge the phases. But you mentioned "the apartment" which makes me think you might get better results with another RR501 plugged into what appears to be the other "circuit".

[beamerman1]

Thanks Dave for a quick response.

I actually have a 2nd RR501 which I plugged into the "other circuit" and it still did not work.  The SS13A has a very short RF range.
I was standing next too the RR501 connected to the "other" circuit and light switch was NOT working.  Then I walked over to the RR501, which is connected to the "same" circuit and light switch worked.  I had both RR501 coded to A.
Would I have to configure the 2nd RR501 differently, since it is on the "other" circuit?

Thanks again.

[BVD]

Thanks Dave for a quick response.

I actually have a 2nd RR501 which I plugged into the "other circuit" and it still did not work.  The SS13A has a very short RF range.
I was standing next too the RR501 connected to the "other" circuit and light switch was NOT working.  Then I walked over to the RR501, which is connected to the "same" circuit and light switch worked.  I had both RR501 coded to A.
Would I have to configure the 2nd RR501 differently, since it is on the "other" circuit?

Thanks again.

All the "other circuits" has managed to confuse me but I'm with Dave on using the second controller. It shouldn't hurt anything that they are both on house code A. Sounds to me like you might want to try a remote with a little more "punch" such as the Model HR12A. You can purchase these where ever you want but you shouldn't pay more than about 4 or 5 bucks each. If you are just going to leave them laying around on a coffee table these work nicely. If you want to carry it around in your pocket the HR12A is a little large for that. It also will control 16 house codes and 16 unit codes for a total of 256 addresses.

Just My 2 cents worth.
Till Later,
Bob

[beamerman1]

By "other circuits", I meant to say a different FUSE Breaker in the panel.  I don't mind using the 2nd Controller, but like I said.  I did have it connected to an outlet which was connected to a different FUSE breaker then the switch that I was trying to control.  Standing right next to it, the locally attached table lamp turned ON/OFF, but the light switch did not respond.  As if the signal never made it from the transceiver to the switch.  But, when I walked to the other end of the apartment, where the 2nd transceiver was connected (outlet was on the same FUSE as the light switch), I was able to successfully control it.  I don't think that it is the signal from the remote to transceiver, sounds like signal is not travelling from transceiver to the switch.
I may not be using correct terminology here, but I guess I called "circuit" whatever is connected to the SAME FUSE Breaker.  I have 6 FUSES  in the panel. 

Thanks again, but I'm still a little confussed.

[HA Dave]

Try moving the 2nd RR501 around a bit. see if any of the outlets will cause the signal to get to the WS12A wall switch.

[BVD]

Standing right next to it, the locally attached table lamp turned ON/OFF, but the light switch did not respond.  As if the signal never made it from the transceiver to the switch.  But, when I walked to the other end of the apartment, where the 2nd transceiver was connected (outlet was on the same FUSE as the light switch), I was able to successfully control it.

Correct me if I am wrong Dave,
Your transceiver receives the RF signal from the remote and converts it and sends it out over the power line to the device, in this case the WS12A, and table lamp set to the same house and unit code as the remote RF signal sent. From what he is saying if he stands close to either receiver the and the same phase the load is on it works great. If he moves the transceiver around as you suggest he may get the second transceiver (connected to the light switch) close enough to the first transceiver that by standing in the middle of the apartment they will both work if he doesn't have to many obstacles to go through in either direction. I still think a more powerful remote might help.

Now you got $.04 worth..
Till Later,
Bob

[dave w]

beamerman1

Perhaps we are shooting at the wrong target.

If I understand; you have never got the wall switch to work.

1. What kind of bulb do you have in the fixture which the wall switch controls?

It has to be an incancescent bulb. CFL and LED bulbs will not work on a two wire wall switch.

2. With an incandescent bulb in the fixture, does the wall switch work when you push the button on it?

If not, is the "disconnect switch" located under the push button in the "ON" position.

[beamerman1]

Guys,  I appreciate all of your help.  let me see if I can explain/clarify further.

To start, my light bulb is incandescent.
Switch is connected in the hallway, at the entrance to the apartment.
When replacing the switch, I flipped the fuse before disconnecting the existing switch.  Doing so, I noted which wall outlets were TURNED OFF as well.  Now, I knew that those outlets are on the same breaker.
After connecting the x10 switch and coding it A2, I plugged in the transceiver into one of the wall outlets noted before.  Transceiver coded as A1 and has a table lamp connected to it (for testing).
Now,  I take the remote, (standing few feet from the RR501) and hit the FIRST button (A1).  Bingo, table lamp turned ON
Now, I hit the SECOND button (A2).  Bingo, hallway light goes ON.
So far, all works great.  now, I would like to utilize the remote from the bedroom, which is on the other side of the Transceiver and due to the range limitation will NOT reach the RR501 (where it is currently plugged in).
So, I tried to move the RR501 to an outlet in the bedroom.
the Table lamp, connected to the RR501, still continues to work, but NOW, the switch in the hallway DOES NOT. 
I also tried to put the RR501 back in the know good outlet and connected a 2nd RR501 in other parts of the apartment.  SAME issue.  Switch does not work, unless I get close enough to the RR501 that is plugged into the outlet that is on the same FUSE line.

I hope this clears up my delema.

Thanks again.

[dave w]

Yeah, I NOW see it in your 6:06 pm response. Sorry.
Do both RR501's (when tested separately, only one at a time) have approximately the same range?

[beamerman1]

Yes, the range (tested separately) is about the same.
only about 1/3 of the apartment (and it is not a large apt to begin with), although most of the walls are solid blocks of concrete.
for some reason, I don't think it is the "range" of the remote -> receiver.  I'm thinking that once the transceiver gets the signal it does NOT reach the switch.
Does the X10 signal travel along the wires over separate Breakers (FUSE)?   I read that if you have a multiple "phases", then you might need a phase bridge.
When I get home tonight, I might try to move the RR501 to other outlets in the apt (ones I have not tried yet) and see if it makes a difference.  Can't imagine that every outlet is on a different phase.

Thanks.

[dave w]

If you think it is a PLC (Power Line Carrier) problem (the tranceiver picks up the radio signal from the remote and puts it on the power line for the wall switch) Maybe the folowing will help  although it is not a hard and fast rule:

A typical breaker box has two verticle columns of breakers.

Each horizontal row (two breakers per row) will be on a phase.   i.e top row will be phase "A",  second row down will be phase "B" third row down will be phase "A" and so on.

240 V appliances will consume space of two vertially adjacent breakers since 120 V phase A,  plus 120V phase B,  equals 240 volts. 

If you have an electric stove, or 240 V electric clothes dryer,  switch the oven or dryer on and re-test your system. If it works, a phase coupler, or (even better) a coupler/amp will fix your probelm. Since you are in an apartment "Smarthome.com" has amplifier/couplers which plug in to a dryer outlet, thus you do not have to permenantly wire it into the breaker box.

[beamerman1]

OK.. Dave, thanks for your suggestion, I did not get a chance to check in the breaker box yet.  All of the appliances in the apt are 110V.  With the exception of one Air Conditioner, which is 220V.  I turned it ON and tried.  NO luck.
But, I did get a chance to move the two RR501s around the apartment to different outlets and everything does work as it should.
I'm not sure as why some outlets work and others don't.

Thanks.

[Brian H]

Air conditioner may not be a good bridge. So that test may have been flawed. The heating elements in dryers and stoves may have worked better.
Are you sure your 220 volts is not closer to 208 volts? Some large apartments and condos are actually feed by three phase and each unit gets two of the three feeding it. That gives about 120 volts from each phase to neutral and 208 volts between the two phases.

[beamerman1]

Brian, thanks for your post.  I appreciate your post/suggestion.  I don't own a volt meter and cannot check the exact voltage of the AC outlet.  I just know that the AC outlet looks different (then all the rest of the outlets) and the AC is rated for 220V and most importantly, it works.  I do not have a Washer/Dryer in the apt, but I do have a stove, which is a 110V Gas stove.