CFLs flash using XPS3 switch.

Started by roger1, May 10, 2009, 12:29:08 AM

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roger1

I am only having the issue with 2 new huge 65watt (300 watt equivalent) Lowe's Bright Effects brand CFLs. (The bulbs are on separate XPS3 switches and both do exactly the same thing.)

They flash about every 6 seconds when switched off. But other than that, they are working fine. The flash is very weak and only detectable at night.

I am using some other CFLs with XPS3s and they don't flash, at least not that I can detect.

I thought because the XPS3 switch was advertised to work with CFL bulbs that I wouldn't have this problem.

Anybody know what is going on here? Explanations and advice will be appreciated.

Brian H

The XPS3 Switch Module; as you may have noticed; has a mechanical ratchet switch in it.
The electronics in it may not know the state of the switch [on or off]. That way if an On is received and it is On the ratchet is not toggeed to Off by mistake.
So it has a what is my present state sensing circuit in it. When Off there is a very small current between the Load Screw and Neutral. This small current in theory could make the electronics in the CFL slowly charge up until the bulb flashes and the cycle starts again. Most CFLs probably are not sensitive to do this. Looks like your are.

I can tell you the current is very low. 0.3 Ma AC on my meter and it also will keep low wattage LED bulbs glowing also.

Solution maybe a different brand CFL or a small load added to each to squash the small sensing current.

roger1

Thanks for your response.

So is the work-around the same for the XPS3 as it is for the WS467 in that you put a 1 watt 22K resistor across the load?

Any disadvantages to using this work-around? I will never use the local control for these lights I only use the remotes.

Brian H

They don't have Local Control. Just the small current from the relay position sensor.
22K resistor.
What wattage.
My calculations show about a .65 Watt. Just curious as I have never tried a resistor.
I believe others with this resistor fix will chime in.

Since the current is very low you maybe able to even use a higher resistance. Less heat wattage wise.

roger1

I guess I used the term local control wrong. I just meant I won't be using turning the light off/on from using the toggle switch on the XPS3 itself. I will just use remotes to control these 2 lights.

Btw, the XPS3 switches I have don't have a mechanical ratchet but rather a momentary electrical switch that fires/releases the internal relay. But, I don't think that makes any difference on the issue we are discussing.

Anyway, I hope someone will chime in and advise us whether the 22K (or other resistor value) across the load is the way to go.

Brian H

I would think a resistor would swamp the small current and the CFL would not pulse.
I may try a few readings on a spare one and see what I find.
Ratchet is correct.

roger1

Still looking for answers on this.

dave w

FWIW
I use a 7W night light plugged into one of these. The parallel resistance prevents the CFL flicker.
http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/12-34-outlet-adapters/lampholder-socket-adapter-601209.aspx
It is a kluge, but I don't like the idea of trying to stick a resistor in the light fixture, or behind the switch.
"This aftershave makes me look fat"

roger1

Thought I would bump back to the top.
Still looking for answers on this.
Thanks.

Brian H

Did you try the 7 watt night light bulb? This would verify that the problem was the small sensing current on the load and may help in finding you an answer.

Charles Sullivan

Quote from: roger1 on June 28, 2009, 12:09:08 PM
Thought I would bump back to the top.
Still looking for answers on this.
Thanks.

You already have some answers.  Let us know which of the suggestions you've tried work or don't work.

If you haven't tried any of the suggestions, the final answer is "42".

Yesterday it worked.
Today it doesn't work.
X10 on Windows is like that.

HEYU - X10 Automation for Linux, Unix, and Mac OS X     http://www.heyu.org

roger1

#11
Quote from: Charles Sullivan on June 28, 2009, 07:44:00 PM

You already have some answers.  Let us know which of the suggestions you've tried work or don't work.

If you haven't tried any of the suggestions, the final answer is "42".



Gee thanks. That really helps.

The suggestion for the small light bulb is not the answer I was looking for. I don't want to run an extra 7 watts (X2) and waste energy. The reason I am running CFLs in the first place is to be green.
That was the only suggestion made.
Resistors were discussed, but Brian was hoping someone that could do the  proper calculations or had experience with this would chime in. No one has.
I realize that the resistors will use a small amount of power as well but nowhere near as much as a 7 watt light bulb.
Brian's suggestion to try a 7 watt light bulb just to verify the problem just came today after my bump. I may go ahead and do that if that is what you all think I need to do.

Now, do you have anything constructive to add?

Roger

roger1

#12
Quote from: Brian H on June 28, 2009, 12:59:19 PM
Did you try the 7 watt night light bulb? This would verify that the problem was the small sensing current on the load and may help in finding you an answer.

Thanks Brian.

No I didn't try it. But I can. I'll pick up one of those bulbs and wire it in when I get a chance.
I was hoping someone would chime-in about the resistor option like you suggested since I wouldn't consider the light bulb as a permanent solution.

Roger

Charles Sullivan

Quote from: roger1 on June 28, 2009, 08:12:52 PM
Quote from: Charles Sullivan on June 28, 2009, 07:44:00 PM

You already have some answers.  Let us know which of the suggestions you've tried work or don't work.

If you haven't tried any of the suggestions, the final answer is "42".



Gee thanks. That really helps.

The suggestion for the small light bulb is not the answer I was looking for. I don't want to run 7 watts (X2) 365 days a year and waste energy. The reason I am running CFLs in the first place is to be green.
That was the only suggestion made.
Resistors were discussed, but Brian was hoping someone that could do the  proper calculations or had experience with this would chime in. No one has.
I realize that the resistors will use a small amount of power as well but nowhere near as much as a 7 watt light bulb.
Now, Brian's suggestion to try a 7 watt light bulb just to verify the problem just came today after my bump. I may go ahead and do that if that is what you all think I need to do.

Now, do you have anything constructive to add?

Roger

You could have expressed your concern, but didn't.   Sorry, but you can't expect us to read your mind.  For all we know you tried the 7 Watt bulb and the CFL continued to flicker.

If you had said something, it would most likely be pointed out that a 7 Watt bulb only dissipates 7 Watts when it's turned on.  With the small trickle current from the "off" module the dissipation will be a lot less - how much you're in a much better position to judge by looking at the bulb in the "off" state.

You can try night lights with even lower wattages.  4 Watt bulbs are common and I think I've seen LED night lights drawing around 1 Watt.

When it comes to resistors, you're going to have to do your own experimentation.  What works for someone else's CFL won't necessarily work for yours.


Yesterday it worked.
Today it doesn't work.
X10 on Windows is like that.

HEYU - X10 Automation for Linux, Unix, and Mac OS X     http://www.heyu.org

Brian H

I have seen 220K 1/2 watt mentioned, but my calculations show that 47K 1/2 watt would be around .3 watts so there would be some safety margin wattage wise. If you had to go that low.

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